immiketoo

Hey, Iris. So, pro dye wont work any differently in regards to stiffness, but you will see a noticeable improvement in evenness of coverage, depending on how you're applying it. I think that if you're making the leather stiff, you're applying it too heavily. This is a very common occurrence with dip dyeing and heavy application with a dauber. Its better to sneak up on your color with a few lighter applications than one heavy one. Easier to control and more even results. BTW, blue is one of the most difficult colors to use, apart form purple which is the worst. As for oil, there is a great debate on whether or not its needed. Personally, I don't think it is. Maybe for saddles and horse tack, but for most things its simply not needed. People slap that crap all over their projects and then wonder why it looks dark or splotchy. However, I DO oil lightly between coats of dye when I use an airbrush because it helps set the previous color and helps the new layer absorb better. Buddy of mine gave me that tip and it works great on fades. Airbrush can be very topical and anything to make it sink in more helps. The type of alcohol you use to thin your dye can affect stiffness, so I recommend denatured alcohol. That's what is in the dyes, and its the best for the pigment as well. Other kinds will work but your mileage may vary. Lastly, the type and thickness of the leather makes a difference as well. Thin leather will get crispy pretty easily while thicker leather maintains its suppleness longer. The alcohol in the dye affects the fillers in the leather, fats, collagen etc., so the thinner the leather, the lighter the coat should be. If you can't avoid saturating the leather, replacing some of the suppleness with oil will help, but you must account for the change in color when you dye or it will be darker than you intended during dyeing. My suggestion is to look at the method you use to apply it and experiment with others until you find what works best for you.

See? Silver lining! Guess I'll have to start buying better wine...:P

What's wrong with faux cork?

The only way to do it is to pick the darkest piece and then match to that. I'd start by stripping the finish with deglaze, then airbrushing walnut dye diluted 50/50 with denatured alcohol on a discreet area of the armor until you got close to the piece you selected to match. Don't math it exactly or it will be too dark when you add the finish. It may take some trial and error on pieces that can't be seen. You might also need to use a different color for different pieces. Ultimately, dark colors like chocolate and black may be your only options for making everything look the same. Good luck.

Welcome to the madness!

If I were you, I would wait until you can afford a better model. There are so many options out there that if you don't need it, why get one form Tandy. I'd look at an old Osborne or the like thats been refurbished. You'll be much happier in the long run. Brucejohnsontools.com usually has a great selection.

This is true, but it's a lot better than buying it all during the marriage. I'd burn it before I'd let it go. Lawyers suck.

Truth. If you're clever, you can easily modify an awl blade from a stock company like Osborne. Good needles are a godsend.

That's a good way of looking at it!

Between him and Bacchus, its nearly impossible to get it all straight. Thank you kindly!

You bet. His site isn't mobile device friendly and the translation isn't great either, but here's what I have. https://shop.leder-louis.ch/product/Diamond-awl-ready-to-use-45-mm-S/1595

Click the english or american flag on his website at the top right corner for mostly english.

Lederlouis is inexpensive, for a working awl thats good. Leather wranglers is 200 bucks, Douglas awl is 120, so for a good awl, 20 bucks for a blade is pretty cheap.

I have all kinds of awls. Leather Wranglers, Douglas, Osborne, some custom ones and the best by far for most of my work is one made by Lederlouis in Switzerland. You can buy a prepared blade or a complete awl. He is a master at shaping them and they make the neatest hole and are easiest to use. I opted for the 45mm complete awl, but if you have a haft waiting for a blade, get just the blade.