Red Cent

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=wide++single+preeser+foot&qpvt=wide++single+preeser+foot&FORM=IGRE

"He sat with me as I drew out the pattern so it's the way he wanted." Customer is always right. Pattern is utilitarian but neat. Stitching very good. While the customer is the ultimate say so'er, some suggestions as Dwight has suggested should be made (if they were not). He will be slow on the draw with the setup. Or dangerous. Dwight, the two main pieces total around 17 ounces. That should be more than enough. for concealed carry. And the belt slots will be through the thick part. Should work fine. And I agree with the comments about the suede.

What Sovran said. 8-9 ounces is around 1/8th inch or 9/64. Four 1/8s does not get you to an inch. I have a C4 and no experience with other machines. I easily sew through 2 8s, 2 6s, and a welt of 2 8s. And glue:) "cheap" is relative. http://rusticleather.com/LeatherThicknessChart.html

A presser foot that is wider than factory? You can get all kinds. Unless the needle kicked off the side of the leather.

Here are comparative pictures. I have the Dads. A 39 and 59. I strongly believe they are all on the same frame and grip. http://www.handgunforum.net/smith-wesson/28983-my-two-latest-new-me-5906-4026-a.html

I have two blue guns I want to trade. I need two Colt SAA 4 3/4"s. I have a Smith & Wesson M&P 4.25" and a Ruger P89. I will pay your shipping costs.

I believe that two pieces of leather glued and sewn is stronger/stiffer than the same total weight and one piece of leather. I use 8/9 with a 5/6 liner for the SASS holsters. In his videos, John Bianchi advocates using a certain weight (8/9) for the outer and one ounce lighter for the inner/liner. My concealed carry holsters are usually 8/9 front and back with no liner. I have made them with an 8/9 back and a /5/6 front.

Hey Andy. If you are sealing the outer, I would think nothing needs to be done with the liner. 'Course, I would apply NF oil before sewing the liner. If I do a black belt with tan liner, the outer is "dyed" in vinagroon and thoroughly dried. Dark brown belts are made with drum dye shoulders. I seal each outer before sewing.

Another old timer chimes in. As Katsass, I have carried concealed for over 40 years. My favorite during some of those times were the "summer specials . As the Avenger style, a bunch made the holster. Sort of a pancake with about 4-5/6-7 ounce sandwiched. The complaint is you cannot "reholster" the handgun. How often do you reholster? Right after a gunfight? I put them on an Avenger just to have a belt loop.

Great show and tell, Colt. I know not of sewing machines, but I do admire the desire to "git 'er done".

The C4 is awesome and Steve ain't too bad:).

The biggest thing I see is that the belt loops are quite low for that big 1911. When strapped on the holster will probably wobble a lot.

It usually comes up with the "options" window. If the option bar is not there, the browse bar will be showing. I use Imgur to store photos from the computer. Some forums don't have picture download software.

I have went to....water. And I sand a lot. It is interesting to read about the different techniques but we are missing something. Pictures. It surprised me to read that some sand with very, very, rough grit. I have come to the conclusion that if your edge is very smooth and free of "hair", then it will burnish smoother. I discovered that if I don't sand well, the hair will come to life in form of little bumps. I sand with 220 and finish with 400. I use water sparingly because I have discovered the edge will deform. After sanding and applying the water lightly with a dauber, the leather will be like glass after motorized burnishing. Now comes the real problem to some of us. How do you keep that super glass like look? This is produced with nothing but water and burnishing.

This lined with suede. Now, this is the rough/flesh side of deerskin. What I call suede. You can burnish the suede/deerskin into the edge but it will turn dark brown just as the leather. Difficult to get a neat look and a neat edge. 'Course, I like the burnished wide brown looking edges on some things.

A number of SASS shooters like the suede or skin lined belt. I use either side of deerskin depending on the preferences of the buyer. Once the belt is cut, glued and sanded, I burnish as usual and attain the best edge I can get. I use Weldwood gel for this same reason. Applied lightly, the gel will not bleed through the hide as others will (I read about this somewhere). I make sure the edges will get very good contact. Put 'em together, roll with rolling pin, and trim but not as close as you can. Once you sew, it will further stabilize the skin/suede to cut. After stitching, I use a brand new blade on my roller cutter. With a lot of light and a lot of careful, you can get a very good trim/edge without further burnishing. I have done them differently. I cut, sand, glue, (no burnishing yet) including the suede/skin. The next day (good and dry), I use a drum sander on the drill press to lightly sand the edge angled towards the back effectively trimming the suede/skin from the leather. Try to always have the drum sander pulling on the skin and not pushing it. Or, always have the drum sander sanding the side away from you and do not hold the belt horizontal. One hand high (right hand) the other low. That is difficult to explain.

I buy from the the Thread Exchange. Great and fast service.

Neatsfoot Oil. Get 100% pure NF oil. Wipe on a light coat of oil. Let dry. Repeat as many times as needed. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=leather+conditioner&qpvt=leather+conditioner&FORM=IGRE

And give it a sun tan. After each coat, expose the leather to good sunshine and the leather will "tan" beautifully.

I used to do the etching thing with our CAD. If you use the adhesive CAD paper, the paper will protect from residue or blasting anything outside of the design. Once the pattern is applied, wrap in a rag or something. A few blasts of clean air should get rid of the leftovers.

wow electrathon. That is coarse. After I bevel, I round the edge with a sanding block with 220 grit. Then I finish off with 400 or so. It seems if "hair" is left on the edge, the bumps will become more pronounced in a few days. Smooth no hair, no bumps.

If you start at the right top corner, put a right foot on the machine and let the foot follow the edge of the leather. Keep the right walking foot against the edge all the way around and it will sew great. Cobra 4.

Confused. When you say leather sewing machine, is that for really thick stuff? I have a machine but I do not use thin thread and not a real small stitch. I use 277 on top and 207 in the bobbin. Look up the size and see if is what you mean. I use bonded polyester thread.

I have a Safariland gunbelt that has Velcro in certain places. This belt came with a competition holster. I do not remember ever seeing every day belts with Velcro. I believe the problem you have is not wanting to stitch the length of the belt. As Dwight stated, most of us use an "outer" and a liner glued and sewed together. If we wanted a patch of Velcro on the inside of the belt, we would do as Dwight stated or thereabouts. I would use an 8-9 outer and a 4-5 liner. I would glue the Velcro in place on the liner, then glue the liner to the outer and sew the outer perimeter of the belt attaching everything together. I skipped over the details of beveling, sanding, burnishing, and finishing the edge. If we have not described this procedure well, please respond.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=iwb+holster+for+semi+auto&qpvt=iwb+holster+for+semi+auto&FORM=IGRE