mtroyalguy

I paid for a laser cutter to cut some intricate edge work on a couple of pieces I did. I was told it smells a bit, but his system was vented already, and took multiple passes. The edges were black and there was a little soot along the edges but the soot wiped off easily. Other than being black (which didn't matter because I was dyeing them black) the edges were no different than hand cut edges. I had no shrinkage or warping.

When I was starting out with masks, one (or maybe more) of the tutorials mentioned casing with boiling water. I also didn't know the difference between veg and chrome tanned. So I had a mask cut out from a scrap of chrome tan white leather from the scrap bin. Dropped it in the boiling water and watched as it not only shrank, but shrank unevenly so I couldn't salvage it as a decoration/doll mask. I regularly use the oven to dry my masks, I have occasionally ended up with grill marks when I wasn't watching closely, but they have always been of the back or light enough that they can be covered by the acrylics I use to paint the masks.

It is really simple to make the pattern, you just need a big sheet of poster board to fold around the item. There is a portfolio in my gallery that I made that way based on these same pictures.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=27179 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=27181 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=27178 The pattern worked very well. I used 1-2 oz veg tan but find it a bit thick when folded. Sorry I used links I couldn't figure out how to just put pictures.

Thank you. I am in Canada and we dont have Joanne fabrics. The two fabric places I checked did not have linen thread.

Just a few questions. Some of which are probably incredibly basic but I haven’t found an answer yet. Can I use thread from the fabric store if the stuff from Tandy is too thick and I am not ready to order from somewhere like Tiger yet? What kind of thread? Would I wax it? Chrome and oil tanned leathers come in thicknesses and stiffness like veg tan? I just can’t tool it? I am thinking for satchels and bags mostly. Is bridle leather just a type of veg tan? I can mold it and use it like regular veg tanned? Thank you

Everything you need to know about casing (wetting) leather is in the thread pinned above. Here is the link: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19121

I made the bag. The picture on the box was more use for the final steps than the instructions were. And the first time I tried to use the bag the rivets popped on the shoulder strap and then on the handle when I tried to use that. But at least I have a nice pattern now.

I made the bag. The picture on the box was more use for the final steps than the instructions were. And the first time I tried to use the bag the rivets popped on the shoulder strap and then on the handle when I tried to use that. But at least I have a nice pattern now.

I just wet form the masks on myself for male masks. I have a cheap styrofoam head I picked up after halloween for a couple of bucks. I would love to find something larger though. Life casting isn't as simple as it looks btw.

I don't do holsters, but I am interested in lining wet formed pieces. If I am understanding correctly, you take your veg tan, contact cement your lining and can then wet mold it as if it were a single piece? Glueing the lining leather before molding does not cause any issues with the molding process?

I lined it with pigskin. I tried to include card slots, since the purpose of the bag is for his ginormous phone when out clubbing, I thought they would be handy. But they didn't work and needed to be surgically removed because they kept catching the phone as it went into the bag.

Could you use Neets on the blades? We know that wont rot the leather lol.

Yay. I am no longer alone (on here). As much as Tandy is bad mouthed on this site, and their quality IS questionable, the local staff are very friendly and helpul.

The first is a hip bag I made for my boyfriend. There is a strap that snaps on the lower rings and the upper clips can snap on belt loops or a simple length of belt with a ring on either end. It is lined, and the edges are laced to hide the sandwich since I couldn't seem to burnish it enough to make it look good. There are six card slots inside, 3 front/3 back, but they didn't turn out well and I don't think they are really usable. He is also wearing the harness suspenders I made for him, but you can't really see the silhouette tooling I did on them. The cuffs are the first piece/s I have ever sold. They are a custom pair based on the earlier design in my gallery that I made for myself. This time I did line them with some pig skin and turned over the edge at the wrist. I found them interesting to make because I had to just trust my measurements and I couldn't even put them on to make sure things were lining up because his forearms are way smaller than mine.

Its usually spelled LARP, Live Action Role Play.

I am try to determine the shapes I need to cut for arcs and odd shapes before I wet them. Also to perhaps determine where I might need to cut darts or other adjustments. I guess I am hoping to save a bit of leather by not wetting a piece hugely larger than the amount needed.

I want to do some wet forming, but not the standard geometric shapes that the wet forming tutorials demonstrate. How do I make a pattern for the pieces before I wet them? I tried paper but it doesn't form around the items the way wet leather would. The fabric I have around for buffing and stuff if too thin. Any suggestions? Please?

Looks great. Just remember, you aren't losing money on this you are investing it. You are perfecting your technique, which has value, and if you thinking of selling then you are making an advertizing piece, which is a legitimate business expense. And if you don't plan to sell (I don't personally) then you are saving money, because it would cost a lot more to buy it.

The block trick is the same trick milners use to make shaped hats with smaller brims than crowns. They make a form the right shape out of wood and cut it into several pieces, usually 6 using # custs. When the center block is removed the other pieces can then be removed easily, keeping the shape of the hat.

I have a nylon messenger that have had for 15 years and use pretty much continously. The strap is on the gusset but has a metal connector on the bag and a swivel clip on the strap. The swivel clip makes all the difference in a hard used bag.

The mitred saddlestich example is in Al Stolman's Art of Hand Sewing. It works quite nicely, my issue is getting my end round and my mitre square.

When I ordered mine I heard nothing for a month until I emailed to inquire. Then I got a tracking # and it turns out it didn't ship until a month after I paid. I was not too happy about waiting that long with no information, particularly since the initial email implied it would be shipping within a few days of payment. Over all I am happy with the product and the dealer was polite and honest, I would have just prefered a bit more communication. I would order again and I would recommend them.

They took longer than expected to arrive, but they are very pretty, I have tried them briefly, and they seem to work well, although I need to work on shaping my edges first.

I had some pieces cut with a laser cutter. It does scorch, nothing you can do about it. Some of it will wash off but some of it stays. Didn't matter to me because I was dying it black or painting with acrylic. I was told the thicker the leather the harder it is to cut and fine detail can be lost. The engrave lines will be black because it is burnt into the leather, they can be painted over though, like silhouette tooling.