johnv474

This is the one I was thinking of. It is 15-16 oz (i.e. 1/4" average), but sometimes 20+ oz. : http://springfieldleather.com/30895/Side%2CHarness%2COld-World%2CRusset/

OurJud, I think you have found some of the answers, but not yet a final solution. I can't give a specific supplier but you may want to look for glazed / sole leather. Of the two primary tanning processes (vegetable tanned and chrome tanned), chrome tanned tends to be soft/floppy, as used in clothing and upholstery. Vegetable tanned tends to be firmer, as in saddles. These are general statements. Sole leather, as used for the sole of some dress shoes, is vegetable-tanned that is then glazed (i.e. compressed under a heavy pressure from a glass roller). This makes it both more dense/firm. Not all glazed leather is used for soles, however. It is also available in several thicknesses, and is often undyed. For what it's worth, this leather can be dyed fairly easily (as well as sealed) with no odd equipment and few supplies. Even without dye, it will darken as it ages and develops patina as it is exposed to sun, skin oils, or any oils/waxes used to treat it. (You can search for undyed leather patina for image examples). I think very thin leather is not easily found that is thin, firm, and dyed because there may not be enough consistent demand. Many suppliers (Wickett & Craig, and others) will split many leathers to the thickness desired for free. They sell veg-tanned, that is dyed and treated, and also split. I hope this reply helps some, though it is a bit circuitous. If you don't mind, are you looking to make multiple wallets or just one or a few? -JV474

Many leatherworking books aimed at beginners will provide information on the tools that are used in that book. Stohlman's books, Valerie Michel, and FO Baird's Leather Secrets all have some description, as some examples.

I do not know where to buy that thickness. However, if I remember correctly, Springfield Leather has a leather that gets to 18-20 oz. thickness in the neck area sometimes. I saw this in the printed catalog, but not on the website, but do not have my catalog here to confirm. If you do not find another option, an alternative might be to attach two or three layers together. This could even be stronger than one layer because the grain is the densest / strongest part... and it could have grain facing both in and out. Best of luck!

Where is Oroville?

Sjohnsone, would you be willing to save me the weeks of driving around? I'm curious to know what happens.

This thread is moving off-topic. OP's belt buckle looks good, er... bad. Let's give OP the respect he deserves for the detail in the buckle showcased here. No need to lambast anyone's work, and certainly not in someone else's thread.

Greetings fellow Hoosier, and welcome. Nice looking work. The stitching looks very consistent. I may have to try my hand at holsters someday.

I would encourage appreciating the value in traditions we hold and observe, while being willing to challenge the assumptions they rest upon. There was reasoning behind many of them, while others are mere historical flukes. However, I still say "Bless you" or "Gesundheit" when someone sneezes, still shake with the right hand, still use linen thread for traditoonal-type leatherwork, still celebrate Pagan holidays rebranded as something else, and still wear shirt and tie to business meetings and funerals If any tradition is silly, the wearing of neckties is.That said, all traditions started somewhere, and evolve over time. It is not ridiculous to have holes 1" apart in a 2" wide belt, but my (purchased) tool belt has holes 2" apart. Do what you like, with an eye to tradition if it matters to you. In matters of taste, there is no disputing--though the snobs of the world will, anyway.This is directed at noone in particular: I just felt like waxing philosophocal for no reason.

The shadow effect could probably be achieved by using a contrasting antiquing color, such as black... possibly "diluted" with neutral antique or white/gray shoe polish. I say diluted because I have not seen gray antique finish... and Ive never mixed antique with shoe polish so test on scraps first. However the shadow effect in the image looks identical to what antique finish can do.

If nothing else works, one last-ditch option is to dip the entire purse in water then hang to dry. If you do, hang it upside down so water does not stay pooled at the bottom. The idea is not to remove the existing water spot but to minimize the contrast of the water spot with the surrounding area. If you like you can attempt this with distilled water, which does not contain the minerals left behind by other waters (ie spots).

I made some simple catdholder wallets from soling leather...but a very simple design was essential. More than 2 layers got bulky fast. It started as 8/10 oz or so but I had to thin it a tad. I still use mine. Its thick and firm but I dont mind. The thickest part has three layers.

Chromexcel is great stuff for nicer items. I bought a bunch at scrap prices (once in a lifetime chance) and have reveived many compliments. I have found a pull-up effect,though milder, from most veg tan--even soling leather--after plenty of oils and waxes have been rubbed in.

I recently got a good deal on a bunch of scrap pieces. Ive made small wallets, like cardholder wallets, some keychains, and some belts. I even made a breadbasket, just for kicks. If you oil it up it softens quite a bit, but remains on the firm side... just no longer like cardboard. I am going to use it next for some braiding experiments. Note: I prefer thick, simple, rugged leather pieces. I would not recommend trying to, say, make a pair of pants with the stuff.

Just about any leather treatment will help. Lexol is a popular brand sold at auto parts stores. An alterrnative is to apply a small amount of oil to the area, then a small amount to the rest of the seat. About any animal- or plant-based oil will help, such as olive oil. Dont apply too much, so it absorbs fully. After it has soaked in, wipe off any residue on the surface so it doesnt get on clothes.

I successfully dyed some oak with vinegar black aka vinegaroon. It was matte black/dark gray until I waxed and polished. I may have soaked it in black tea to increase the tannin content, though. I know this isn't purple, but it should be permanent.

I'll preface my comments by saying thay I hand stitch everything. That said, the arguments for hand-stitching aren't perfect. A machine can be more consistent than a human at cutting, sewing, spacing, and thread tension. Most of these debates assume identical products, with the only difference being hand- vs machine-stitched. However, FOR THE TIME INVESTED, a machine could triple-stitch the seam, or more... and use heavier-dutythread than could easily be done by hand. Now, a single row of stitching may be better as a saddler stitch, but you'd have a hard time showing that one row of saddlers stitching would beat multiple rows of more consistent machine-sewn lockstitch. People use machines to speed up the work. I recently saw an old leather workshop with specialized burnishers and polishing wheels set up. The argument for hand stitching is similar tothe argument that building a house without power tools is superior. Reality seldom cooperates by being so simple. Three areas where hand-stitching shines: 1) repairs, 2) very unusual shapes that machines can't handle, 3) authenticity. Some people place value on a piece being done by hand, but they are the minority. What often happens after people start sewing by machine (think manufacturers) is they realize theycan just give a warranty and skip the triple stitch -- bam, bigger profits. They can also stop using full-grain leather -- bam, bigger profits and more consistent results (e.g. with top-grain, having been corrected). Knowing each piece is made by hand inspires many, but this can mean made by hand using machines as well. The key for hand stitchers, to remain competitive,is either to not compete solely on price, or to design in ways that minimize stitching because it is always slow (by comparison). For me it's a hobby that I want to be mobile so a machine is not a good solution. I might find it less therapeutic,

Or, you could just buy latex gloves like mechannics wear while working with that leather. Be aware that undyed veg tan will change color over time with exposure to moisture, oils (ie from contact with hands), and sun. If you try to seal it you may be able to slow down this effect. . .but to me that's the point of using this material. I just use a little extra virgin olive oil earlyon to soften it up a little. This will darken it until the oil dries. I later apply other stuff, but it could be left raw. Since it's tanned, it will be resistant to rotting but will be very water-sensitive unless you treat it. By water-sensitive I mean it will get soggy and pliable.

Id like to help but the answer to this would (and does) fill an entire book, and would still only be a partial answer. I suggest looking up Google Books, where they have thousands of old books scanned that you can read for free. Anexample titleis The Arts of Tanning, Currying, and Hide Preparation. Or,visit the library and search for leather tanning, tannery, etc. If you have a more specific question then it would be possible to answer.

I know this post is old, but others may have similar questions or OP may still consider other options. (Note: I'm not a professional, so this was a trick I found by experimenting.) If cost is a consideration, a cheaper option (though not quite as nice) is to glaze the interior instead of lining it. For the first belt I made, I got the belt wet as if I were going to stamp it. Instead, I took an empty glass jelly jar and pushed down and pulled. Because it was a strap, I had to be especially careful to apply even pressure or the belt would curve. I used a strawberry preserves jar, but I imagine raspberry would work also :-) . Another very cheap but durable liner that is not leather is to buy a one of those canvas painter's tarps. Usually you can buy a huge one for cheap, then cut bits to use it for lining etc. If you do this, be aware that your glue must be light, and even, or it will soak through in splotches. Some people may not like the look, the canvas and medium weight leather looks great together, in my opinion. It would be very difficult to do this _after_ the wallet or pouch was assembled, but it looks pretty slick when done ahead of time.

If you use a leather that has any ability to be tooled (i.e. not a very soft chrome-tanned leather), you could just dampen the whole thing, then stamp in bumps or simply tap over the entire surface with the edge of a hammer, to give a randomized pattern with some texture. I imagine this would look especially cool with a piece of undyed veg-tan, because it would develop an awesome patina from the driver's hands and exposure to the sun. Just a thought.

I dont think wet-forming chrome-tanned leather works as well, but vegetable-tanned mold easily when wet. Im guessing that to get that level of detail the leather must be on the thinner side, say 2-3 oz.

This is an old thread (no pun intended), but in case others find it through searching, as I did.... I prefer linen thread personally for a few reasons, even if other products may be stronger. I have also used polyster and Nyltex, which I understand to be a nylon-poly mix. I also tried fishing line before. If you want to go hog wild on strength, you can buy white nylon braided masons line from the hardware store, also available in neon colors. It is rated for 175 lbs, but is very thick. It would be difficult to thread even a 000 needle. My test requirwed pliers for every stitch.... but it will probably last!

I recently tried braiding three pieces together. the results were okay i suppose but probably reflective of amateurish braiding. these were three pieces of 5 strand linen thread.

Sometimes my preferred local, non-franchised leather shop doesnt have a particular tool I want that is made ny Osborne or other better brands, they sometimes have a Tandy cheaper version. I say cheaper because buying Tandy products from their store is cheaper than through Tandy... at least for my 35 dollar level membership. But I mostly buy awesome scrap hides for 3 bucks a sq ft or 6 bucks a pound. If anyone is in or near Indianapolis, Landwerlen leather is a cool shop.