RiverCity

Thanks again Wiz, the references to items helps a lot. I'll be sewing pockets on cases, and general bag work. Nothing super heavy duty (8oz + 5oz). Wallets and belt edges. From what I've gathered 138 would be a viable choice for cases and bags with 207 being used if extra strength is needed. And 69 for pocket items like wallets and such. I'm getting a 227 from Bob in a couple of weeks. Chuck

Definitely. I've seen the same casting from different sellers for different prices. With Tandy you have to catch stuff on sale. Their pricing even with membership can get rediculous on some stuff. The press and dies included. Chuck

Yep, thin it. They make a reducer, but you can use denatured alcohol, or even drug store isopropyl alcohol. Play around on some scrap. You can start at like 1 part dye to 1 part alcohol. If its still too dark go 2-1 alcohol etc until its where you want it. It's better to start lighter and add color till you hit the shade you want, as removing dye color is tough if not impossible sometimes. Chuck

I have the big red Tandy press. Buy what dies you need now, and keeping checking the sales flyer if you want to expand your set. They put the dies on sale a couple times a year. Chuck

Thanks Wiz! I've studied that one. I'm just having trouble picturing sizes. I guess what I'm saying is that I'm looking for picture comparison of thread sizes, especially against a known object etc to see what looks right for what I need. Chuck

Exactly like Chief said. I will add that depending on how many snaps you need to set, the press is a real time saver and gives a perfectly set snap. If you only set a couple once in a blue moon, probably not worth it. Setting any number on a regular basis, especially on something you're selling..... Worth it. Chuck

I've been reading up on thread sizes and uses etc, along with thread/needle charts. The problem I'm having is that I can't visualize the thread sizes. Has anyone put together or have run across a picture based explanation? Something like lines of stitches in different thread weights compared to a ruler or a penny or something? Chuck

Wow! Very nice Chuck

I can't tell you for sure why it cracked. Maybe finish was too thick? But a tip, if you fold and or crease the leather before you finish it, it puts less stress on a topcoat when you do final assembly. Chuck

Not me, but they do very nice work. Chuck

Wow, very cool! Chuck

Overall looks pretty good. I would caution you about your attachment points and the weight of the leather you use for them. Think of it in terms of overbuilding, not just adequate. You don't want your straps or attachment points to fail later down the road, so the stouter the better. I learned that one the hard way as I'm sure a lot of folks have. Chuck

I was asking the same thing a while back. The best I can come up with is a dual speed buffer with long shafts. A sanding drum should be easily adaptable, the other side the best I could come up with is using multiple hard wood discs and sanding them flush then cutting grooves in them as the machine spins. For this to work best, each side should be close in weight to balance well. I drooled over the weaver machine, thinking it was expensive at 400. Then I found out its actually closer to 700. Ouch. Chuck

If you go the wet formed route, you can be careful with nail placement and hide them in a line of stitches. Chuck

I don't have a better picture available, but the sides should have flaps that fold under the end piece. Gives a cleaner line. it does need to be either sewn or riveted closed to complete the pocket. Chuck

Yes. Depending on your tip size, 11mm 12 mm etc, cut the blanks roughly the same mm or slightly bigger in diameter. It will spread to a larger diameter when pressed, so no need to go nuts wih worry about sizing a this point. Different people swear by different things to soak tips in. Water, milk and whiskey are some of the more popular options. The casian in milk can have a binding effect on the leather fibers to a small degree. Either way, vise it until its dry. Preferably between wood, or smooth jaws on the vise. Here's a thread I did for a different forum about installing tips by hand. You can get by with only a razor blade, but if you play a lot, you can invest in he tools mentioned. http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=51018 If using a razor blade to trim the tip, go slow and pretty much just shave the leather off. Don't try to chop it off.

Trust me, the tip presses are nice, but not needed. Just pressing in a vise will be plenty Chuck

I would cut a few and mess around with them. You might find pressing them in a vise will add consistency. Just stay away from loose grain flakey leather. Chuck

You'll always see your own mistakes, and seeing them and wanting to improve them means you care. I look at each of my mistakes as a learning experience, and try not to make the same mistakes twice. Doesn't always work out that way, but its how I try to improve. Chuck

Thanks! I've used block dyeing for the purpose of leaving tooling undyed before, but never on a piece that was large enough to worry about streaks. I'll keep tinkering with it. I'm guessing keep the cloth on the block pretty dry and "scrub" the dye into the leather? Thanks Chuck

With the block dying, do you get "even" coverage without overlapping dark streaks? Is it better to use the oil dye vs reg alcohol etc? Thanks Chuck

Just a side note to replacing the blades. Use a pair of needle nose pliers, it will help set the blade in tight and keep you from cutting your fingers to ribbons. Chuck

Nice clean work! Chuck

Very nice! Well executed Chuck

Very nice work! Chuck