RiverCity

Exactly like Chief said. I will add that depending on how many snaps you need to set, the press is a real time saver and gives a perfectly set snap. If you only set a couple once in a blue moon, probably not worth it. Setting any number on a regular basis, especially on something you're selling..... Worth it. Chuck

I've been reading up on thread sizes and uses etc, along with thread/needle charts. The problem I'm having is that I can't visualize the thread sizes. Has anyone put together or have run across a picture based explanation? Something like lines of stitches in different thread weights compared to a ruler or a penny or something? Chuck

Wow! Very nice Chuck

I can't tell you for sure why it cracked. Maybe finish was too thick? But a tip, if you fold and or crease the leather before you finish it, it puts less stress on a topcoat when you do final assembly. Chuck

Not me, but they do very nice work. Chuck

Wow, very cool! Chuck

Overall looks pretty good. I would caution you about your attachment points and the weight of the leather you use for them. Think of it in terms of overbuilding, not just adequate. You don't want your straps or attachment points to fail later down the road, so the stouter the better. I learned that one the hard way as I'm sure a lot of folks have. Chuck

I was asking the same thing a while back. The best I can come up with is a dual speed buffer with long shafts. A sanding drum should be easily adaptable, the other side the best I could come up with is using multiple hard wood discs and sanding them flush then cutting grooves in them as the machine spins. For this to work best, each side should be close in weight to balance well. I drooled over the weaver machine, thinking it was expensive at 400. Then I found out its actually closer to 700. Ouch. Chuck

If you go the wet formed route, you can be careful with nail placement and hide them in a line of stitches. Chuck

I don't have a better picture available, but the sides should have flaps that fold under the end piece. Gives a cleaner line. it does need to be either sewn or riveted closed to complete the pocket. Chuck

Yes. Depending on your tip size, 11mm 12 mm etc, cut the blanks roughly the same mm or slightly bigger in diameter. It will spread to a larger diameter when pressed, so no need to go nuts wih worry about sizing a this point. Different people swear by different things to soak tips in. Water, milk and whiskey are some of the more popular options. The casian in milk can have a binding effect on the leather fibers to a small degree. Either way, vise it until its dry. Preferably between wood, or smooth jaws on the vise. Here's a thread I did for a different forum about installing tips by hand. You can get by with only a razor blade, but if you play a lot, you can invest in he tools mentioned. http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=51018 If using a razor blade to trim the tip, go slow and pretty much just shave the leather off. Don't try to chop it off.

Trust me, the tip presses are nice, but not needed. Just pressing in a vise will be plenty Chuck

I would cut a few and mess around with them. You might find pressing them in a vise will add consistency. Just stay away from loose grain flakey leather. Chuck

You'll always see your own mistakes, and seeing them and wanting to improve them means you care. I look at each of my mistakes as a learning experience, and try not to make the same mistakes twice. Doesn't always work out that way, but its how I try to improve. Chuck

Thanks! I've used block dyeing for the purpose of leaving tooling undyed before, but never on a piece that was large enough to worry about streaks. I'll keep tinkering with it. I'm guessing keep the cloth on the block pretty dry and "scrub" the dye into the leather? Thanks Chuck

With the block dying, do you get "even" coverage without overlapping dark streaks? Is it better to use the oil dye vs reg alcohol etc? Thanks Chuck

Just a side note to replacing the blades. Use a pair of needle nose pliers, it will help set the blade in tight and keep you from cutting your fingers to ribbons. Chuck

Nice clean work! Chuck

Very nice! Well executed Chuck

Very nice work! Chuck

Without measuring the Weaver, I would guess it somewhere in the 4-5 inches long range. If folks havent seen what Im talking about heres a link Their machine looks good, but its pricetag is a bit high for my wallet. A 75 dollar buffer and the burnishing wheel would save about 300-350 bucks, and from what Ive heard you cant just buy a replacement from Weaver. Chuck

Apparently Im not explaining things right. First off, there are buffers that run in the 1700 rpm range. Im not talking about a 6" disc, and construction wise its about as simple as a lathe project can be. Thanks for the answers guys. I was just asking if anyone knew if any of the known burnisher makers make a sleeve type burnisher for a bench buffer. Thats ok, Ill keep looking! Chuck

Thanks guys. I know who makes burnishers, what I need to know is if anyone makes one that fits a bench top buffer without having to put an adapter on it or rig it in some way. Would need a threaded insert in one and a jam nut up against it to hold in on the motor. Chuck

Do and of the burnishing wheel makers make anything that can mount on a bench top buffer? Ive seen the drill press, dremel versions etc. I like the looks of the Weaver machine, but its way too spendy for what it is, and I dont have access to a lathe to turn something. Chuck

You need something you can put inside it that will act as your anvil. A piece of steel flat bar etc. You could also rework it to have all the rivets on the outside. Depends on what direction you want to take it. Chuck