RiverCity

Youll get differing opinions on this because its one of those personal preference things. Overall, your cuts dont look too bad, some are better than others. I do the bulk of my carving with either a 3/8" or a 1/2" blade. For finish cuts I like a thick 3/8" blade, again just preference. Even the regular tandy blades are fine, you dont need anything fancy. The best advice I can give you is pick up some scrap if you dont already have some and practice until you are confident and smooth in the hand movements. Some of your cuts look a bit choppy like you are really trying to steer the knife perfectly. Remember when you learned how to drive? Death grip on the wheel etc? Same thing applies. Loosen up and just guide the knife, but dont try to concentrate or muscle it to where you want it to go. Another tip is before you make your final cuts, grab a piece of scrap and "warm up" with some finish cuts. Hope this helps Chuck

Yes, she will ask you to put a couple of dimensions on it to verify scale. Chuck

I had a great experience with Joyce from BRL. Ordered several custom templates, she was able to take CAD files so the parts are 100% accurate. Good pricing, and fast turn around! If anyone is in need of acrylic templates and does not know about Black River Laser, they are excellent! Thanks again Joyce Chuck

Finally have the shop set back up and am doing some work again.

I leave the tails long on the needle and bobbin at the start and stopping point. I sew over top of where I started where applicable, and back stitch a couple of stitches. Then I use a sharp awl on the backside and pull the top threads through the back and tie them off and melt them. This wont be helpful if youre doing something where both side are visible of course, but its a strong fix without a bunch of ugly on the top side. Chuck

Not sure what an apron case is? If you can provide a picture or sketch it would be easier to help. Chuck

I bought Bobby's book and improved immediately after reading it. For those who haven't bought his book, buy it. Worth every penny if you draw floral patterns. Here's one before and then edited afterwards, I still needs some work of course, but difference is like night and day. Thanks again Bobby for sharing your knowledge! Chuck

I just read the manual for your gun Note: This Spray Gun is meant for spraying oil-based paints. It is not recommended for regular wall paint or thin coatings of any type. While these products can be used with this Spray Gun, coverage will not be even. Don't know..... You can give it a try, if it won't spray what you need it to then maybe you can return it? Chuck

Mine can spray oil based, but I got one size down from yours because of the smaller compressor. Chuck

Yes, they're the same. They all use the Schick injector razor blades. Chuck

Like camano ridge said, harbor freight. I use their spray guns and the small compressor. The guns were 9 bucks a piece, hose 7-8 and the compressor was 60 plus 5 for fittings. It depends on the size of work you do, the airbrush is ok for small stuff, but the spray pattern is small. If you're trying to get even coverage on a larger piece the gun is the way to go. I use one for dyes and the other for acrylic (resolene).

Does this person have a good reason for not wanting 2 pieces sewn together? Or is he just trying to save you work? Chuck

Another tip, if you have a method of spraying the dye, airbrush spray gun etc. It helps in getting an even color with diluted dyes as well as layering the color. Chuck

Might be worth somebody getting a cheap Lee press and messing around. You could modify it for the other press dies, or possibly even just a setter and anvil. The later would only put it in the $70 range if everything was bought new. Chuck

Are you cutting a gouge line on the backside where the fold will be? If not you need to. You can then lightly wet the leather and use a bone folder make the fold and get a nice line/corner over the edge of a table etc. If its really stiff, you can fold it over and hammer it with a mallet and another piece of leather over it as a protector. Caution with hammering a fold, it can and usually does cause the leather to bunch up a little bit at the fold line. Chuck

Nice clean work! Chuck

Well thats not good.... LOL Do you know of something that I can use to seal it? Im new to this kind of leather, only chrome tans Ive ever used have been oil skins. Chuck

Im making a case that has a lot of white chrome tanned upholstery leather. Do you think it would be ok to seal it with resolene so that it is easier to wipe down and keep clean? Chuck

What have you found that will mark white chrome tan and still be erasable? Ive seen the silver pens, but Im leaning towards chalk. Ill test it on scrap first of course. Also, to keep it clean, or make it easier to wipe clean, would resolene work as a finish that would dry clear? Thanks Chuck

Are you holding the top and bottom threads straight back and taught for the first couple of stitches? Chuck

Another vote for carving the letters. Stamps are ok for some stuff I guess, but IMO it always puts me in the mind of cub scout arts and crafts. You can go to a site like dafont.com and find what looks right, then print out the wording etc in different sizes depending on what you need. Chuck

Ill be there. Should be fun! Chuck

Other than you will have to let it mostly dry.... no problems at all. Leather that is too wet is too soft to work, and wont hold the tooling as well as leather that has the correct moisture content. Chuck

Ill add that you can use a modeling spoon or even your finger (if you spray the area with water first) to smooth out and "round" the bevel. Chuck

I second buying by the side. You will typically get a better price per square foot, and will have the same pieces of leather you are currently using plus more clean leather from the shoulder that can be used. For the main cases that I do, the bellies are useless. I cut them off as soon as I unroll a side. However, I use them for things that stretch etc arent a factor. If you are looking at cost effectiveness, buy by the side. Chuck