Reegesc

@Impulse -- Thanks for the Roo tip. I'm ordering some now. Post a pic when you get a chance.

Yeah, sell them individually. It will take longer, but you'll make a lot more. You might try selling them here first as that would save you some money on commission fees (10% on eBay). But surprisingly this isn't a very active or robust market. For pricing, look up past sales on eBay and new and used book prices on Amazon. Just scanning through these, I'd say your looking at an average of $15 per book. For your Home Study Course, I found one sold listing at $60 (seems low to me though). eBay is an obvious choice with its sizable marketplace for leather craft items, books included. I would also take a look at Etsy as these are vintage items and you're likely to fetch a higher price there with the vintage angle although it is a smaller marketplace: Listings for "Al Stohlman Books" Etsy 6 Amazon 67 eBay 88 TomG is right -- shipping will not be an issue if you get yourself a USPS account and use online shipping. It's not only ultra convenient, it's cheaper too as you get an online discount. If you would rather not mess with any of this and just have someone do it for you (there's a lot to learn and do if you're new to this), there are services that will do it all. eBay has a large "drop off" network that includes all FedEx locations. These consigners will create the auction listings, manage the auction, field questions, handle payment, ship the product..... everything.... and they cover all selling expenses. They charge around 30% of the selling price. Here's a directory where you can find one in your area. I scanned through your list a second time and noticed the saddle making encyclopedia set and figured those would be worth more than the others, and they are. Volumes 1 and 2 are worth around $90 each. BUT, it looks like volume three is a rare and collectible book. Be sure to research that one carefully. Here's what I found. Amazon $1,207 Abebooks $3,474 eBay $1,214 Good luck

"You could have "God" embroidered on your bunnet." I see your point. Had the google search all wrong. Apologies. That is very cool.

"never thought to take any photos" .....ah, of course, you're an artist. Were you able to mimimc gold foil?

@ LumpenDoodle -- That is such a cool name, almost as cool as "Fergle", my all time fave. So....LumpenDoodle.... you've just been sitting on this secret all this time? Hmmm....? You know, I have googled this concept several times and not ONCE has your name or tip shown up. Well, at least you came clean. I'd like to see some examples of that work, if you're so inclined to share. And welcome to the forum. ;-)

I tried again today and it was FAR harder. After two hours of messing around with it, I managed to get one image printed. The leather was a little thinner the first time and it was also cooler and less humid that particular day (the printer is in the garage). The thickness is an obvious issue, but environmentals can be a factor. The one image I was able to get today was after skiving the leading edge. Clearly the thinner the material, the more likely it will work. I have a bunch of paper-thin chrome that I'm certain will work, but what's the point? Might as well print on black card stock. But ....? well....? maybe not. A B&W image might work just fine on chrome. You know what occurred to me as I was researching this further and thinking about the process? This is tattooing leather. It's exactly what it is. Instead of needles, it's a jet injecting the ink...under the skin. The first thing that I noticed about this process was how well "set" the ink was as soon as it came out of the printer. I expected it to smudge, but it didn't because the ink was underneath the surface, just like a tattoo. After realizing that, I spent a couple hours searching for a cool tattoo to print. My lord, there are so many cool tattoos out there. I also did some printer research and found that that 3 oz leather is roughly 6 times the acceptable range for my printer, and yours too... all low-end printers for that matter. Oh, yeah, and you're only supposed to use their ink.!!! Btw, Brother is the last of the manufactures that haven't engineered a built-in ban on generic cartridges. You can buy Brother generic ink cartridges for less than a buck on Amazon and eBay. And Brother printers will print on leather! Sorta. Keep that in mind next time you're looking at printers. I also looked for hacks, but didn't find anything. Epson gets high marks for handling thick cardstock as do printers that have menu option selections for heavy paper (mine doesn't have that). Supposedly rear manual feed printers are thick friendly, but that wasn't true in my case. Mine prefers feeding from the tray. My next step, is to hack into my printer and figure out how to adjust whatever the bottleneck is. I'll bet it's nothing more than a sensor that needs to point somewhere else. Here's the image that I printed -- one pass and one coat of Sad Lac to saturate the colors . Note the stuttering at the top of the image where it must have hopped around a bit while the printer was deciding what to do with it. That didn't happen on the my first two treasure map prints. Here is what the image looks like on my monitor. You can tell there's some degradation with the printed version, but it's not a bad reproduction all thing considered.

@ Chriscraft -- you had it right the first time, you worm can opener you. ;-)

@ Hacakady -- those look great. I too have been working on incorporating arch support and heel. I like yours better.

Clap ~ Clap ~ Clap I remember your post months back in a thread of "show us your work space" and remember thinking "there's a trooper." That's great things have worked out for you finally. And the shop looks terrific.

Has anyone else tried this? I discovered quite by experimental luck that my no-big-deal Brother Inkjet printer will accept and print on thin veg tan, in this case 3oz. I had one of those “I wonder” moments and before the “Don’t do it, you’ll ruin the printer!” warning could kick in, a sheet-size piece of 3oz was working its way through my inkjet with no problem, (well there were a few internal groans). After fiddling around with the color saturation of the image, I obtained a pretty impressive result that was crisp, detailed and around 80-85% paper color saturation. I bumped that up some more by going over the two major colors and using a sharpie to highlight the borders and certain features. Pretty cool stuff -- opens up all sorts of possibilities that I'm looking forward to try and maybe one of those is ruining the printer after all. I guess it shouldn't come as much of a surprise when you think about it. The only limitation would seem to be the thickness that your printer will accept. After that it’s just laying down ink, right? Passport/Field Notes Case/Wallet with Treasure Map Cover

NASA inspired flops: Failure Is Not An Option

@Wraith -- Those look great. I like how you brought the straps in the sides. The cork looks cool too.

@ The Don -- Yeah you're probably ok. That's how most are made.

@ The Don -- Man those look great. On the first pair, how did you inlay that upper layer? Looks sharp. And on the second pair, how did you secure the toe stem? It really likes nice without a visible sew line. Impressive, all the way around.

If I had a bag like that I could travel the world. Maybe even rule it. Very nice...

Ditto on the bandsaw idea.

@ Monica - ~ Clap ~ Clap ~ Clap ~ Very nice! Good job! Btw -- Although I said "rawhide" in the tutorial, it was actually "horsehide". I do know the difference, but ever since I was a kid the term rawhide has meant horses. Not because I was taught that, but because of countless hours watching reruns of the old TV Western "Rawhide". Somehow that just became the association. So...I'm living proof that watching too much TV can have consequences. :-) Small font for embarrassment purposes and to not take away from your well deserved praise.

That's right they are different. Just offering another option based on my experience using these relatively knew and unknown irons. I don't have anything against the prick/awl method when it comes to making stitch holes except that it's hard as crap and and time consuming and error prone. Foregoing the excitement of prick/awl stiching, I've ventured out and tried my Chinese Irons using the Arbor Press ($40 Harbor Freight) method and am quite pleased with this approach. For those of you who are experimenters and in the Punch Camp of Stitch Hole Theory, spring $5 and buy yourself one 6-Prong Chinese Stitching Iron. Buy the round shaft style so you won't have to grind the iron to fit your Arbor Press as I had to. Slide the iron into the press, set the proper angle and lock it down. You now now have a "Stitch Hole Punching Machine." I've been playing with this setup for a couple days now and love it. Only thing better would be someobody else doing it (I've never liked this step). The stitch holes are perfectly straight up and down. The diamond angle is perfect placed and uniform from the first to the last hole. The holes are punched all the way through in one pass, landing exactly on the stitch lines, both front and back (up to 1/2" thickness). It is boring though -- set, press, set, press, set press, perfect hole, perfect hole.

Nail Holes -- I should have been clearer in the Tutorial and pointed out that the nails follow the stitching line/groove. However, that is of zero consequence if you're not going to perimeter stitch all the way through to the bottom sole. In that case, I just hold the bundled layers together with my hand when I belt sand, but that's also been with flops that had fewer and thinner layers. Although I haven't tried, a hand clamp should work just fine as long as you carefully realign the layers as you move the clamp around. Any other ideas out there? At any rate, if you did not foresee nail holes as an issue, plan ahead.

@ Tboyce -- Why thank you Sir, that means a lot. I'm a mere student compared to you. Long time fan.

Just to be clear, the top layer is embossed cowhide, not genuine alligator. Pretty sure I got that from Springfield to -- their embossed leather bargain bundle.