Michael Sheldon

Not sure how flannel would work. The "fuzzy" surface may not adhere tightly? I've only used smooth fabrics.

One option when using thin fabric for linings. PVA "white" glue re-activates with heat. You can apply a thin layer to your leather, let dry, then iron on the liner, preventing issues with the glue wicking through the fabric.

For larger pieces, I get the best results by using an airbrush to apply Fiebings pro black. Not sure why, but I get much better penetration, and much less rub-off.

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Neel's Saddlery Model 5 cylinder bed. I bought this many years ago, and have rarely used it. It handles #207 and #277 thread quite well. It handles #138 adequately. It does NOT handle #69, even though the manual claims otherwise. (Can't tension the bottom enough.) It will very easily handle 3/4" of leather. Needle size 214x2/328 S This is a bottom-feed only machine, and as such, the feed dogs are quite sharp, and mar the bottom surface. Additionally, there is a lot of pressure on the foot, so it tends to leave drag marks on the top of top-coated leather also, uncoated veg-tan is not an issue. It works very well if the back will not be visible, or the back is raw flesh side. This is primary the reason I don't use it. Most everything I do is lined, or needs to look presentable on the back side. This is a good machine for doing utility work, tool belts, etc. Motor, bobbin winder, 8 bobbins, misc parts and manual are included. Table is NOT included. The sample stitching shown in the pics was done just a few months ago, the machine is working just as it did when I bought it. Local pickup in Gilbert Arizona ONLY. Sorry, not going to go through a lot of effort for a freebie.

I would definitely choose veg-tan over chrome tan. Long-term exposure to metallic salts leaching out due to sweating? No thank you. Harness/Bridle etc, will vary, depends on the tannery. Some is entirely veg-tan that is then "stuffed" with waxes and oils, Some is combination veg/chrome tanned then stuffed. Take your time, do your research. Even so, I'd be picky about the source of my veg-tan, no "mystery tannery" from Tandy. Note that undyed veg-tan sheep shearling does exist. Harder to find, but I have used it in the past.

Old 19th century wallets and such had accordion sections, and the dividers were commonly stiffened fabric with edges bound in very thin leather. Try looking for "buckram" in fabric stores. It comes in different weights.

I just purchased a 24oz BK Mallet (flat face) last week from Rocky Mountain. Cheaper than Tandy, and far better quality. Fell into the category of "why the heck did I not buy this years ago?"

Just for weird knowledge. There is a hack to do color with a laser and powder-coat resins, but not something I'd do on leather.

For the past couple years, I've been using Tokonole for edge-burnishing, and I love the results. But, I kinda hate applying it to edges. It's thick, and can be messy. I've done it with fingertip (decent control, but messy), diluted in paint pens (Just never worked well for me, slow, pens clog, etc), and with edge applicator rollers (OK, but not great). Today, I might have had a brainstorm... Has anyone tried using a GlueBot? Specifically, the smallest one, the BabeBot? https://www.fastcap.com/product/glubot-family?cat=49 I use the BabeBot for applying glue to laser-cut parts, and it delivers glue very controllably, and precisely. I was thinking about it today, and realized Tokonole is about the same consistency as PVA glue. Thought I'd ask if anyone had tried this before I order another one.

I recently placed a wholesale order through Weaver, and noticed they have a set of listings for Ohio Travel Bag now. Only issue I had with it, is that it is breaking the search. I searched for #115 Sleigh Bells, and it ONLY listed the OTB-supplied ones, not all of them. I had a short heart-attack thinking they had discontinued another size range (They've done that twice to me so far). I pulled up a previous invoice and followed the item link there, and everything showed up. So, I guess a warning if you are a wholesale customer, and the items you buy were stocked by both Weaver and OTB, search may be wonky.

Been working with leather for a long time, I can't smell it like that anymore, and I miss it. I honestly don't remember the last time I noticed the smell of leather. Barge though.... kinda wish I'd lose my sense of smell for that.

Weaver has/had a foot press with a lower that fit a smooth 3/8" shank They sell an adapter to allow standard Tandy-style lower dies to fit.

I've got a 10W diode. So far, I haven't used it directly on leather, but I have used it quite a lot for cutting MDF templates.

Does it have to be that specific style of lacing? There are varying styles of edge lacing that completely cover the edge, without needing to punch so closely. Trying to get a simple whip stitch that close is seriously weakening the edge of the leather. Spanish edge lacing of three loops, and two loops. For really tight coverage, you can do a round braid over the edge. It's intricate and time-consuming, but it looks awesome.

Yeah, I don't think I'd risk it on a real workpiece. OTOH, if you have time, try it on a test piece and let us know.

Back stitching usually takes care of the issue for me, but on some items that may get higher stress, or back stitching is awkward, I've been known to cut the threads long, and hand-backstitch a couple holes with a saddle stitch.

I've done quite a few pieces with Tokonole. Just spread on thinly and burnish.

IMO, black is the worst dye to work with. It doesn't penetrate well, it requires a LOT of dye to get a good even black, it rubs off easily, and, it looks like crap until you finish it properly. I hate dying black. My preferred method for applying black dye is with a cheap airbrush. Goes on evenly, penetrates well, requires less dye, and has less rub-off. Otherwise, apply very liberally, outright drench the piece in dye. Then, when it's dry, take a rag and buff the heck out of it, almost to the point of burnishing. It gets rid of dried surface dye, and smooths out the surface, which will make it look a lot better. Assuming it now looks good, and doesn't need more dye, lightly oil, and rub the heck out of it again. Or, if you use black frequently, and aren't tooling it, I recommend buying it already dyed.

Ah, not Cowboy technically. Neel's Saddlery Model 5. According to the manual, it will do anything from #69 to #554. Reality is that anything under #138 is a no-go, can't get the lower tension high enough. Even #138 is a bit dodgy. It was inexpensive, and I didn't understand enough at the time how big a deal it was that it was bottom-feed only. It sews #207 and #277 very nicely, but the feed dogs mar the bottom, and the high foot pressure can leave marks from compression and burnishing on some leather as well. It's great for utility work, probably excellent for nylon strapping, etc., but not good for leather if appearance matters.

The stitch is basically the same as what a single-needle serger does. The sideways mechanism is downright fascinating.

I currently have a machine rated for very heavy thread (Cowboy Model 5). I've never used, or had any desire to use, anything heavier than 277. It is definitely looking like I will end up with a CB3500 or similar, and I will keep my Thompson PW400 for lightweight work. The CB4500 is out, I don't have space for a machine with a 16" arm. I may look at the Artisan Toro-3200 though. It appears to be identical to the CB4500, but with a 10.5" arm.

Yes, smooth feed dogs solve the problem, but that's not possible on bottom-feed only machines like the CB2500. The CB3500/CB4500 are compound feed, and on my list of possibilities, as is the CB3200.

Yeah, definitely no bottom-feed machines. Feed dogs leaving marks is the #1 reason I'm looking for a new machine.

I've looked at the manuals, and they're definitely an option. My biggest downside to them is that it makes one hand unavailable for holding the material. If I could put a treadle on the Cub...