Harag

What are you using to seal in the dye? When the dye is dry, buff it really well until no dye is coming off on to the cloth, then I would suggest to use Resolene (50/50 mix with water) to seal in the dye.

I bought a pack of Arcylic paints which had a 2oz of Resolene in it, I also bought a 4oz as I wasn't sure how much I would use it or how quick it would go. At the time I didn't know to cut it 50/50. At the moment for the little I do I've been using some eye droppers and mixing it in a small container each time. I plan to use the 2oz and when it's down to 1/2 full I'll put water in it and mix it, plan to keep doing this and pouring in resolene from the 4oz bottle...

If it's too late to line, how about using a french bevel knife and sink the snap into the leather a little so it sits below the surface.

WOW love the idea (and the attached image) Dwight. . I've personally been getting a coin (different sizes depending on item) and then using a scalpel to cut the corner bit by bit, then use 400 grid paper to sand it down smooth.

You're welcome, No pictures yet, I'm still working on the first piece and taking my time for drying. I've finished the tooling and added neatsfoot oil, hoping to dye this week then start painting the acrylic part next week. There is a thread in the general forum that another newbie and I have put together to help starters, but as cyber mentions later in the topic - experiment! Which I agree with in part, but a list does help the starters, try the list, mess around and see what you come up with that works for you. Personally I'm following the list for now until I learn more. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=48166

I've started doing a bit of this myself and my research into this I've come up with the following. Dye with the Oil dye as you said Wait for it to dry (24 hrs min) buff the dye, then buff again. after that buff some more to remove all the pigment left Seal the dye using resolene mixed with water 50/50 - a couple of thin coats Paint with acrylic. When dry, apply clear varnish to the acrylic painted area ONLY - (some acrylics react funny to resolene) seal again with resolene 50/50 mix - maybe 1 coat on the acrylic then another coat over it it all. Apply conditioner / wax finish As I've said, I've only just started doing this and not really finished my first piece yet, but the above are the steps I'll be taking. Hope this helps.

Great thanks Cyber. I've updated the steps list, would you mind checking the new steps and add any comment if they are wrong, they are (9, 17 & 19 is amended for UK)

I've been working through this list while making a dog collar. where in the list would "apply neatsfoot oil" appear? do I put this on before dying, or after?

There is a topic in the getting started forum which might be of help. it contains a list of steps, scroll though it as the list was altered several times in the topic. Hope this helps. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=48166

wow, i dont see a problem with it... can we have a close up picture?

I agree experimenting is good, but it's nice to have ideas on how others do it to then do my own experimenting. Socks... maybe I'll chop up some old cotton tea towels.

Thanks for pointing out the number of layers, it does seem a lot, but they should be very light. I'll also experiment with it, as I said I've not done it before either. I had a feeling you can use other acrylic paints on leather, been told that the model / citadel paints are good, was also wondering what the difference is between them all so I'll make sure I test them. I did note in the list I provided (#12) to add varnish to the top of acrylic painted area before resolene, I forgot to mention why. I've been told some acrylics react with resolene hence the varnish in between them.

I'm looking at getting one of these sometime this year, but have found the tandy one quite expensive. Looking on Ebay I've found a UK one that is basically 1/2 the price and comes with 100 or so snaps. Might be worth checking out ebay first.

I'm starting out with dying and acrylic paints and have asked the same question. With the help of Cyberthrasher and some others I'm going to do the following order... though I can't say how it will turn out as I've not done it yet. With resolene - You MUST water it down 50/50 split 1. Dye with Pro Oil dye 2. Allow to dry 24+ hrs 3. Buff, buff and buff again, then get a clean cloth and buff again - repeat until the clean cloth is still clean after buffing. 4. Apply a light coat of the 50/50 resolene 5. Dry for 1-2 hrs 6. Apply another light resolene coat 7. dry for 1-2 hrs 8 apply another resolene coat 9 dry for 24+ hours 10. Once really dry, you can then paint with your acrylic paints on the resolene. 11. Wait for it to really dry well - say 24 hrs. 12. Add "varnish" to the painted acrylic area only (not the dye areas). 13. again wait for it to dry - 24 hrs? 14. repeat resolene steps above, over the acrylic area with a final coat over the whole acrylic and dye - drying between each coat 15. again dry... 24 hrs? 16. Add conditioner - something like Mink Oil or snow proof 17. Dry / buff / give to client As I say I've not done this, just asked the same question as you. Though I might have put too many "resolene" steps in the above. The important bit seems to be all the drying time in between, so might help if you have other projects on at the same time...

I also buy from leprevo, and so far have found them the cheapest around, though other people have mentioned to me "you get what you pay for", but since I'm also starting out I've been very happy with them so far, though I might get some better tools later on. For the bag, you mention I don't think you want it too thick, maybe order code 026 or 028 will be ok for you. http://www.leprevo.co.uk/hides.htm The best thing for you to do is to contact leprevo and ask them to send you some samples - I've placed several orders with them in the past and with each order ordered quite a few samples by giving them the order codes and colours of the ones I'm interested in.

Agreed... Bump Love the tutorial. Thanks

I use a pen or pencil if one is at hand since these will be the cut lines they won't show up, or you could use your pointy end of the modeling tool (which I also do). when cutting your pattern from the main hide just rough extra spaces, then place your pattern on the piece you cut and mark out the shape. never try to cut the shape exactly from the hide. The extra bits you cut off can always be used for something - I use some bits to put under when I'm using a hole punch, or to practice painting on, or even lines with my swivel knife. Like you, I'm also learning and found the leather expensive to learn with so I'm also careful at cutting out. I did try to cut a arm guard straight from the hide when I started and slipped with the knife, (Arrrhhh) and "wasted" about a foot of leather, hence the cutting extra around the basic pattern. Hope this helps, from one noob to another noob.

I've sharpen my first awl while watching this video, and as Nige mentions do it for 2 hours, so put some time aside to do it... After watching the video you still have another 1 hr 40 mins sharpening... So spend this time watching his other excellent videos - saddle stitch etc. you will watch these more than once - I think I've watched them 3 times now and not even done a stitch yet. But one the 2 hrs were up sharpening - my awl was much better and glided through 4mm of leather as a hot knife though butter. Nice!

Thanks Cheryl, can't wait to see the end result. I've voted lace!

This might be a dumb question... but what are they? They look big for earrings, so would love to see the end product and something for the scaling of size.

Look in the other thread with the same title.

Very nice wallets, I'll ask as well, which book?

Bri, Look on You Tube for a guy named "Ian Atkinson" he has some excellent videos, and please dont forget to donate to him so he keeps making them. http://ianatkinson.net/leather/

It would be nice if the private message was posted (edited if you want) then everyone else who have the same questions can see the answers, that's the reason to use forums.

I've used Tan Kote on the back of my leather recently, rubbed it in and then used the bone folder to slick it down and smoothed it out, left it overnight and now the back is really smooth. As this is the first time I've ever done this, does anyone see a problem with using Tan Kote for the back as I can't get Gum Trag from my current supplier.