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Harag

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Everything posted by Harag

  1. I was just looking for an answer to this but unfortunately I bought the stain before finding the answer (should be arriving this week). I have a follow up questions. I've done some tooling/stamping and bought the stain, some acrylic paints, and a resolene to finish with. On my design I don't want to stain it, so do I put resolene over the acrylic painted / natural areas then rub on the stain and then finish with resolene again? Also do I put the stain on the sides (Done some bookmarks/coasters/key fob type things) and resolene on that as well What about the Back of the item? Some Tan Kote and Resolene? Thanks
  2. Thanks for the thumbnails and the pointers to BK website - Does he deliver to the UK? I'm guessing this might cost a lot for overseas though.
  3. Great, thanks for letting me know - I'll get the pure version.
  4. Hi all I'm practicing some tooling/stamping and doing some celtic knots. I current have two lines about 2mm apart and I need to bevel in betwen them. The problem I'm having is that the bevel I have is so wide from front to back, so when I bevel down the side of line one, the back of the bevel flattens the other line, meaning I don't get a crisp bevel. I'm currently using the starting Bevel - B197 Can anyone recommend which bevel - or an alternative way I can bevel small areas? I've orderd a B935 which is about 1/2 the width, but the depth front to back is the same as the B197, so I'm going to have the same problem. A couple images of the current bookmarks I've done (first go BTW). http://www.mazdrak.c...rk/DSCF1580.JPG http://www.mazdrak.c...rk/DSCF1584.JPG Many thanks
  5. Harag

    Casing

    Amazon - that famous book shop
  6. I don't tend to see commercials, anyone got a link to a youtube vid? would love to see it in action. Prince the video on page 2 is awesome, as well as all your armour.
  7. Hi all I've read bits about Neatsfoot oil and that I "might" need to put it on the leather after tooling, but then let it dry for 24 hours. I went to my suppliers website and spotted "Pure" and "Compound" oils - the compound in 3 sizes. (Link below) My questions are - 1. What is the difference between them,? 2. Which should I use. 3. What would the "other" one I don't use be used for? http://www.leprevo.co.uk/aftercare.htm Many thanks. Alan
  8. Agree - some good ole British humour. I can't wait to see the photos Nige as well as the log idea you have in your workshop is great. Pity I don't have room to "swing a cat" at my current dwellings. BTW nige - can we have more of the dog saying hello in the upcoming videos.
  9. Is it a paste that you just use a cloth and stick your finger in it?
  10. I know you have some new tools and you're being nice with thanking, but can you please fix your caps lock key?
  11. I have a small plastic paint rolling tray, and will be standing my bottle in there when I open it up just in case I knock it over, the paint should then stay in the tray. I've not tried this yet, as I've not ordered any paints, but think it will work.
  12. I might be wrong as I'm new and also learning, and just finished some practice tooling, but I think the oil goes on before any painting/ dye/finish. One thing I have read a lot is LET IT DRY FOR 24 HOURS at least before continuing.
  13. I'm just reading the "Leatherwork Manual" by Al Stohlman - in there it says 1pint of warm water to 1 tsp of acid. I've not tried it yet but I guess this is the about the right mix
  14. Thanks for the video link. I have seen the other videos by them a while ago when I was looking at starting leather working, I've now subscribed to springfield. The video really helped.
  15. Sorry forgot to paste the link in... Worth the wait I think - http://www.clanbadge.com/
  16. The below site be help you with knots - its a FONT you can use in word, wordpad, paint package etc and each letter has part of a knot on it (over 200 parts) - No I didn't create it or own any part of it. I purchased it the other day and started playing around with designs, then I can print them out onto my "freezer paper" to then trace onto the leather. Well worth the money. Hope this helps.
  17. Thanks for the advice, I will certainly keep it in mind as the pack from leprevo only contains 11 colours, and since they charge for delivery I have to make sure I order other items at the same time to bring the cost down.
  18. Hibernicus, download the catalog from leprevo - and also the clearance pdf file. at the start of the catalog there is a conversion from US Ounce to UK mm - I've just started leather working and I've ordered my stuff from leprevo, though I've not ordered leather yet (I bought bookmarks to practice stamping/tooling on). Not knowing about the different leathers I asked them the same question, email their sales, they are very helpful. and don't forget to ask for SAMPLES of the different leathers, they will send them with your order. For what you have in mind you might want to order 026 and 028. - 026 is used for things like archery braces, bags, etc, where 028 is used for things like armour (I plan on doing medieval type stuff). Like you I too don't have a store near by and will have to order huge hides, which is a great expense when learning. Thanks for the ebay seller name, I'll also check this out as I don't really want to order full hides just yet.
  19. A shop 5 minutes walk from home sells the citadel paints, and I think the golden fluid ones but can't remember the 2nd one to be sure. I talk it you're saying these paints are ok for leather. I've read that you can water down the fiebings one 50/50 - can you water down the other paints ? Sorry for the questions but I've never done anything like this before.
  20. Ahh so stamping / tooling is different, I assumed it was the same, thanks for pointing out the the two. I was just looking at your site and noticed the woodland pouch - what leather did you use for the bag - was that from leprevo?
  21. Thanks for the tutorial... one question - what is the beeswax for?
  22. Hi all I've done some tooling over the weekend and now I'm looking at purchasing some acrylic paint and Resolene pack as well as some antique (links below). It got me wondering, would normal "model" acrylic paint be ok? the type you can use for painting models, like, trains, tanks, aeroplanes etc. or is the acrylic paints for leather a special type of paint? http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/acrylic_pack.htm http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/antique_stain.htm The reason I'm asking is that model paint is more available in craft shops, and the leather one isn't. Cheers Alan
  23. Pity there is no answer to this followup question, looking for the answer myself.
  24. Hi I'm just getting into tooling and I know I need the natural veg tan hides to tool on. I was wondering is it possible to tool on "Matt veg-tan dyed thru" (Dyed Veg Tan) leather? http://www.leprevo.co.uk/hides.htm http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/1.8-2mm-shoulders.htm Many thanks
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