Harag

I like the leaves idea, thanks for posting up the items.

Very nice for a first go... I'll say it before someone else does - you need to practice "walking" the bevel tool. Place tool, tap it, then move it about 1/2 the width and tap again. If you have a modelling spoon as well you can use that to smooth out the edges. Keep it up!

Oh, great, thanks for the tip about the varnish, not hear of that one before. I'll have a play around with the acrylics and resolene and see what happens. I don't think we can get the Montana Pitch Blend here in the UK hence the reason why I got the Mink Oil. I take it by your post you simply don't use the Canauba cream at all. You should have a web site with all the tips & tricks, Your very helpful and have a lot of knowledge, thanks for sharing.

Thanks Cyber, you have really cleared things up, I was wondering why so many conditioners etc. Slight amend to the list: lightly oil with neatsfoot oil (lightly condition fibers) dye seal with acrylic resolene (protect dye and add water/UV resistance) >> Paint Arcylic on top of dye. e.g. dog name in white. >> seal the above paint with acrylic resolene (protect dye and add water/UV resistance) condition with wax based conditioner (ONCE - to add a wax coating for further water resistance and polish things up for the end customer) send out door Now the next question. I have both Mink oil & Canauba Cream, I've read that mink oil will be better for water "proofing" (better water resist than resolene), so I'm guessing for outdoor items like dog collars / knife sheaths etc, then use mink oil, for indoor items use the canauba cream. Is this logic about right?

Thanks for pointing out the Carnauba cream & acrylic paints, not exactly sure what the cream does, but from videos I've seen the person uses the cream then resolene to finish, but you seem to be saying to put the cream over the resolene. Do I also put the mink oil on over the cream?

Thanks, I did try water and it didn't seem to do anything, though I have learned I need more brushes.

Thanks, I thought that might be the case, How do you clean the brush afterwards? I've tried water and that doesn't seem to work.

Very nice. I'm doing some tooling and would love to colour different parts in different colours, care to explain how you do that? Do you dye the whole thing black, then add the yellow. I tried that and it didn't work for me. If you dye the background back and leave the skull, then dye that yellow, how do you dye the edges near the skull in black without going on the skull, I currently use a dauber to put the oil dye on.

Hi I'm about to make my first couple of dog collars this weekend and have the following Neatfoot oil Resolene (50/50) Carnauba Cream Mink Oil the leather is veg tan, and will be died with OIL dye and then have some acrylic paint on it. From a couple of tests I've found that before I put the acrylic paint on the oil I need to apply resolene so... Dye Add Carn Cream Add resolene Paint Accrylic Add Resolene My In my test I painted on the dye then added the cream, but this pulled off the paint (even after it's dried for several days) So I was wondering if anyone has any suggestion on when to add the Neatsfoot oil and the Mink Oil Many thanks

Thanks for all the feedback, I was asking because I can't seem to find premade lace from my current supplier in the UK hence the reason I bought the tool Oh well. I think I will shelve it for a while and see if I can find somewhere to buy lace from in the UK. Nevermind.. I've just found it on my suppliers site: called "Flat Leather": http://www.leprevo.co.uk/leather-thonging.htm

Thanks Shtoink, I can get a pack of 5 blades, but didn't bother, but will add it to my next order. I'll remove the blade and sharpen it, I sharpen my stanley knife when that gets dull rather than replace the blade.

Iv'e got some "1.8 - 2mm" (4-5oz) natural veg tan leather which is the next thinnest one I have, but think if I use this it will be more like thongs rather than lace. which would be good for some arm guards I'm making, but I've never seen pre-made lace before so not sure what sort of leather I need. On that subject, would I be best dye the veg tan before making the thong? For the blade, it's a new cutter, so will the blade need shaping and then running through with some jewellers rough ?

Thanks for pointing out the clicker. I thought it was something like that, just not heard it called a clicker before.

I like the circle cutter, I tried to do some coasters and made a mess at cutting them out, but cant seem to find the cutter in the UK. BTW, what is a "Clicker"???

Anyone?

TheKid, any chance of a phone of the finished item? I was looking at doing a simple S3 case pouch type thing, but I've noticed a couple of colleagues at work who has one is always picking it up to check their texts etc. so a pouch type case might not be ideal so was interested in the picture you posted.

I don't even use leather to make a strop, some plain smooth cardboard, like the inside of cornflake boxes (not the outside), I simply rub my rough on there and strop away. Seems to work for me. Though like Nigel, I'm no expert in this area, just trying what I've read about.

Really? All the insides were already assembled, where is the fun in that. I thought the idea of the kit was the fun in putting it together. I'm glad I haven't bought one of these. I'd like to make the whole thing from scratch. My partner visits a lot of charity shops so I think I'll ask her to pick up a cheap 2nd hand wallet similar, or keep an eye out myself, then undo it all.

I don't know for sure, but something like this might help? http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/dye-prep.htm

Thanks Nige, I've seen your log in your videos... One day I might have the same, at the moment I live in a rented apartment and don't have room for such things. I think I'll start saving up for a BK maul, might look at the other items he sells to see if I can get several things and save on postage. At the moment it's just a hobby so don't want to send too much, one day it might become more though.

Hi all I recently bought a thong cutter: http://www.leprevo.c...aker_thong.html to make some lacing so I can lace around things like kindle covers etc. With it I bought item # 105: http://www.leprevo.co.uk/hides.htm Near the bottom - "Kid Lining Leather", thinking this would be ok for lacing - I think I'm wrong on this as every time I've cut a 4" square and put a hole in it, it just goes all out of shape and I can't seem to get it started. What type of leather should I be using to make lacing with? Any help / advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Really nice box, how long did it take you?

Agree. I've tried casing and simply wetting, and found the casing is way better, I've just been wetting when messing around with tools. e.g. I bought a rope tool and took quite a few goes before I worked out how to do a line of them. Now I just need to perfect the casing, hence the questions about wetting them. more practice is still needed.

It seems there is no right or wrong way, every leather is different and so the results will be. As long as we're happy with the result.

Most of the mentions here mention 16 or 20oz mauls, I have a 16oz rubber hammer and a cheap wooden hammer (not sure on weight but very light). I find that using the 16 oz for tooling even though it's good and a lot quieter than the wooden one, my arm aches after about 5 minutes and I have to keep putting it down. Yes I must be a weakling or something. but it just seems too heavy for me. Don't you all have this problem?