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On my previous machines I slowed it down by changing the size of the handwheel and the motor pulleys and the N/P worked fine. The new machine came with a speed reducer and the N/P doesn't work as it should. However, I've read somewhere that the N/P can be adjusted on the servo motor. I've tried this briefly with very limited success but I haven't tried it to death and it goes slow enough for me to keep putting it off. One day.....

If you're looking for proper leather then I have to point out that a cow is only so long so yardage might be problematical. However, sites like Temu or Ali Express might sell rolls of what they call leather or faux leather. Might be cheaper than Ebay or Amazon. Be aware that some might be pre-folded to give a clean edge.

Hope everyone is having the best Xmas they can whilst sparing a thought for those for whom Xmas will never be great again. And let's hope that 2026 will be a productive year.

Just seen this on YouTube.

Price drop; £650

They now have a veg tan sole and a back. I didn't allow enough lean in on the back so it doesn't grip as much as I'd like so might put some padding around the top.

I've read about this drop test but it never occurred to me that the bobbin must be different to be able to do it. I always go with a try first. Because my hobby uses different types and thicknesses of leather I'll always test on a bit of scrap first to check tension and needle size. I'll always use the 45 degree slide test as a starting point for needle size and adjust if necessary.

Thanks Keith. Seems like a foolproof way to do it. I wondered if I was doing something wrong.

Thanks but there are lots of Cobra users on here and it's not a very difficult question.

Come on you Cobra'ers! Is this normal or has it snagged in that position?

I guess we need a Cobra guy to come along and say if it's right or wrong.

Yes but I don't see a slot on the Cobra. It's where it goes after the tension spring that's got me puzzled? There's no way my thread can double back after coming out of the tension spring and go through the little notch on the bobbin retainer on the top like it is on the Cobra.

Saw this on a video short. Guessing it's a Cobra and noticed the thread going through the notch in the thingy that holds the bobbin in place. Is this standard because I don't see any way I could do that on my machine? Of course i could always be missing something.

Interesting information. Thanks for sharing.

Took me a while to realise that hand sewing works around dissimilar curves because it draws the two halve together gradually. In some cases the stitch holes are different on each side to facilitate. The simplest way when they get too far apart is to go back now and then and use the previous hole twice to even up but doesn't look good if gonna be seen. When machining it's sometimes easier to "V" notch arounf the bends.

After watching the Dieselpunk video for the mocs I don't like em so much but the pattern has all the parts so Ill look at adapting it for machining. The slipper pattern will be a breeze to machine and should be quick too.

Good job Chuck, I did much the same thing. Got half way through and got fed up trying to work things out so bought a pattern. Easy enough to do and I had a piece of sheepskin. I ran out of sheepskin so used a bit if something else. I have lots of real fur that's just sitting there cos many over here are squeamish about real fur. Turns out I don't like the open back so will prolly put a back on. I'm not keen on the boot type but they look good. I do like the blue ones for something you can go out in in fact, when I bought the slipper pattern I bought this one also which is closer to what I was trying to do in the first place.

Well you've already bought the kit now which will serve for a while. As you're finding out, a question like this has a multitude of answers. They all mean well and as in all things, everyone has their own take. I'll just add this. Start with a pattern! Everything will be explained in detail, you'll understand each step and why and will give you confidence to look for the next project. Many pattern sellers provide a step by step video and tell you what leather and how much you'll need. This was my very first project (I'd done some reading of course). It's a Dieselpunkro pattern (Motoko3) and I made it with the minimum of tools. I have no affiliation with Dieselpunkro but from recollection I know he has some mask patterns.

You don't say how you're fixing the liner. Does it have to be completely detachable? If not, could it be just glued in? How about this before you spend important money. Presumably the bottom can be just a fold over. the top can be hidden under a turned and stiched leather top seam. That just leaves the sides. If your machine won't do the job after a couple of folds, how about packing it out with a strip of leather welt which can be held in place with double sided or basting tape. Just a thought but I'm a bugger for solving problems with what's to hand before throwing money at it. Of course, if you intend production runs that's a different matter.

Have you ground the teeth down on that bandsaw Chuck?

Well done!

A bit more info in this old thread. Was a 170mm at that time, changed it again later.

If I had a memory I'd be dangerous and I did this a few years ago. I'll try to find it but remember I'm in the UK and if IRC I bought it from a local engineers supply unit. They're really easy to use though because it comes in two parts. Each size of center piece is matched up with a series of sizes of the pulley itself. You marry the two with the set screws you can see at the joining point. This one has a 250mm pulley. The Adler 69 that I sold a while back had a 270mm pulley but likely had the same size center.

And they're easily available in all sizes and much cheaper than the normal speed reducer. Iirc the whole thing ,pullies and belt cost around £40.

With servo motor and replacement handwheel and servo pullies to give speed control and extra torque. Will do a stitch at a time. Forgive the video quality and sketchy use. I haven't touched this machine for a very long time. Located in Chatham, Kent, UK. Pickup only. £850 Durkopp 239 with converted handwheel for extra torque and slower speeds..