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I acquired a large carboy and a few demi-johns as well as the rest of the paraphernalia needed for this journey. I now have three mash bins full of de-stemmed grapes and water and yeast that was put in two days ago and the must is almost at the top of the bins. I haven't adhered strictly to the recipe due to lack of equipment at the right time. I'm told online that I shouldn't have added water despite the recipe calling for it. Time will tell. This post is about the large carboy. I bought it from my new French friend who brought it from France years ago. To say the basket is very fragile is a huge understatement. I know I don't really need the basket but I'd like to know you guys thoughts on how easy it would be to restore it. I will make a leather bottom and lace it to something around the top but I will oil it and look for some wicker? I think it's worth saving. Your thoughts guys?

Big step. First of all, what's your weather like? Over here in the UK the outdoor show season finishes around October time. Rain can ruin a weekend and can be a big factor over here, less of a problem where you are. If you intend to do it full time you might consider paying the extra cost of indoor shows in which case gazebos are less of a consideration. I've seen many cheap ones in the bins after a windy weekend but the good ones are very expensive. If it's to cover three pitches it'll need to be a big one which will make your eyes water. As is often quoted on here, "buy once, cry once". As for the display itself, try for an open fronted "U" shape which is more welcoming than a straight table. Fabricate some vertical tiers, especially at the back where you can put the bigger items especially some brightly coloured stuff. People walking past won't see stuff that are on a flat table. Lighting is a must and raises you to a different level. Use it to spotlight your more expensive or more interesting items and it will attract a lot more than those stalls that don't have it. When choosing what shows to book your first consideration should be footfall. Don't imagine for a second that everyone will like your stuff as much as you do. Only a small percentage of your stuff will appeal to MOST people. Now, after looking at the total footfall you have to face some facts. The promoters will lie about the total footfall because they want your $. Now take out the number that are only making a day of it and have no intention of buying anything. Then take out the number that would be a customer if only they had some money including the tyre kickers. You can think of many more that won't be giving you their money. The number that's left is where you'll make your money. So the higher the footfall, the more chance of making some money. Unfortunately these are the shows that will cost the most. Another important factor might be the type of show. I've paid £40 for a weekend at a steam rally (not with leather) and took well over £1000. I've also paid £600 at an air show with a huge footfall and didn't get the pitch money back because I booked too late and had a lousy position. Lesson learned, when you have all your ducks in a row you'll book your shows for the year just after the new year to guarantee a good pitch. Over here there's a publication called "The Showman's Directory", it lists every show through the year with footfall and contact details. Although primarily a UK thing there was a lot of international shows as well. Maybe there's a US version. Good luck.

Saying well done to you is getting tiresome. Do something wrong for God's sake man.

That's the only thing I'm envious of in the US,the space. Must be great. Thanks for the cool on the hat.

I applaud your skills Chuck but I do wish you guys would talk English. Wots a burb?

Welcome neighbour! Website looking good. Lots of friends here.

Thanks Bill. Appreciate it.

Thanks Mr Black. It's all veg tan, yes there's wire in the brim and it's not lined. Didn't make it for constant wearing. Of course a lining could be installed at any time.

Have been out and about today picking free grapes. Now have loads. On the journey for sure now.

Are you referring to my wizard hat Fred?

I've got one of those sharpened hole saws somewhere. Don't think I've ever used it. That mini rolling mill makes it so easy to do circles. I would have thought that even the soft part of the hole saw would do the job if the edge wasn't so fine to make it fold over i.e a blunter edge. Even mild steel is much harder than leather.

Fool that I am have decided to have a go this year. Know nothing about it except picking up bits through life. Only been here for 3 yrs and last year there was so few bunches that I didn't bother but this year there's about 5 times more. There's still not enough to make it worthwhile so I'll have to supplement with either more grapes from somewhere or some concentrate. A couple peeps on facebook don't want theirs so I'm going tomorrow to see what's left. A whole new learning curve coming up and equipment to buy but two of my daughters will no doubt push me to get it done.

Thanks Bob. Took a while though. Ordered the red and black cord cos wasn't sure which one would have the most impact but I think the black is right.

Finally got the cord to finish the Corset hat.

Well done mate they look good. Just measured a rivet and they want a surprising 4mm. Will order some now.

More like it mate. I'll do a search.

Just a simple rivet size tube needed Keith. Where my dies have a wood core it would be simple to just drill a hole and glue a tube in to save working out where to punch every time.

Really great work so far mate and I know this was a request but I ain't having it until I see a handbag. If anyone knows where I can get tiny hollow tube that I can incorporate into my dies to punch rivet/snap type holes at the same time please let us all know cos it won't be long before dikman wants em too.

I don't remember saying this! Is this you asking me a question?

Don't you just love it when a plan comes together. Well done.

If selling is your priority you must think like a seller. Regardless of what you choose to make, your target audience is about to walk past your stall in seconds not minutes. Your job is to catch their eye and get their attention. Bright colours rather than classic brown. Most won't give a toss if you stitches are nice and neat or did you use Tokenole on those edges. Once you have their attention the next thing they'll look at is price. Most won't start the day with buying in mind and might not have a lot of cash in their pocket. Of course if you are able to take card payments. that a whole different ball game and product range.

If I ever make a "real" one it'll be wider with two layers and glued and stitched. These are just to hold my trousers up and stop me wondering which pair of trousers I left my one belt on last.

The bottom one just needed a little messing and re dying so I only had to do two. Still waiting for some cord to finish my corset hat.

After years of taking my one belt from one pair of trousers to use on another pair, bearing in mind what I do I finally got disgusted enough with myself to start on three more. Bearing in mind that my world is practical and not for the benefit of others, it will just be one layer and rivets so I should be finished by the end of today.

Forgive me dikman if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs but I can't help myself if I see a way to help someone. A few thoughts. If you run a disc cutter down the web of the angle iron but not all the way through will allow you to the angle gradually until you get it where you want, Bear in mind if you use an over angle you can always stop before fully closing. The one I showed above is 60 degrees. I do have a 90 degree but ill often use the 60 for this reason. Are you planning on welding or a wooden core? If wooden you have to think about getting the leather out. This can be a hole that you can poke through or you can glue some foam rubber under the core that will automatically eject the leather after cutting it. If using foam make sure that after leaving enough knife below the core to cut your thickest leather, you might need slightly more to allow for the compressed foam. You can use thin foam and glue on extra layers until it does the job If using wood cut slight smaller to allow for the thickness of the knife. Bear in mind the screws will help with slight anomalies. If welding you'll need an accurate (paper pattern) to test on as you bend If using wood and it finishes flush with the top of the knife it'll be robust enough to walk around some quite big patterns under the press. Looking forward to seeing your first makings from your own dies.