Bigpaws

KAI 7000 Professional Series Shear 8 or 10”. Surgically sharp all the way to the tip, and great edge retention. Until recently, my “go to’s” were Tandy’s Craftool Pro shears…they’ve held up well for a number of years…the KAI’s are far superior.

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I just received mine (Cobra 4)! Major kudos to Uwe...beautifully designed and executed...fits perfectly, and the packing/packaging is 1st rate. Like all of Uwe's stuff, this is professional quality. (Not normally a fanboi, but I do appreciate quality work). Thanks Uwe...great job.

I've received an order for a M&P9C pancake holster. Being in California, this is not an "on roster" gun, so it's likely to be a one off type of deal. Was hoping not to have to buy a blue gun that wouldn't amortize in short order. Question is: Does anyone have such a blue gun that they might be willing to lend/rent for a week or so? Would be willing to put up escrow funds to cover loss, etc. Another alternative would be if anyone is interested in adding to their blue gun inventory, I would be OK with buying and reselling to you after one use. Any takers? Thanks, Rick

214x1, 328 (fabric) 214x2, 328 (leather point) NM 200 or 25 is listed as the minimum size for 277 thread (25, 26, 27 are recommended).

Should have noted that system 16x257 is for sizes 9-18. System 16x95 is used for needle sizes 19-23. Both are exactly the same system.

Foobee, I believe the 31-15 uses 16x257 system needles. Schmetz SDI or Tri tip needle points will give you a straight stitch. Gros-Beckert is SD point There are other points that will also give a straight stitch but are more suitable for heavy/hard leathers and longer stitch lengths.

Sioux, Thanks for the info....I'd forgotten about Booth & Co. Years ago, I ordered some stuff from them and they were very helpful. Gave them a call this morning and they fixed me up on the stirrup leathers and some billets. Pretty reasonable pricing too. Thanks again, Rick

What type of leather is generally used on English stirrup leathers? A customer has a track workout saddle that she wants the leather replaced on.....wants 3/4" thin and supple leathers. I'm a little worried about stretching/durability. She's not real heavy, but she does use this as her everyday trail riding saddle since retiring from track exercising. Saddle is around 30 years old, handmade and one of a kind ( has western style carving and leather and silver lacing...unique to a "racing saddle") so I want to do it right. Any suggestions on the leather? Harness, Bridle, ????? Also looking for a source for 1/8 - 1/4" thick memory foam rolls. Sheridan Leather was my source, but they are liquidating and I need another supplier. Thanks, Rick

Cobra 18 does have a reverse lever.

Brentlee, I have her combination beveler, and can attest to it's quality and functionality. All my previous lace beveling tools are now in a box in storage. She's always been very good to deal with and prompt in communicating.....as Eric said, life probably got in the way....keep trying. Regards, Rick

Hi BayPony, If you would like to PM me, we can discuss what you have in mind....definitely interested. Where are you located? Hope to hear from you, Rick

LOL! Funny you mention the stiffener....I kinda screwed up on the order of construction....forgot to sew the stiffener on until AFTER the rest of the holster was put together....what a b*tch to stitch that puppy. As you noticed, it ended up a little short. I thought about trimming the main holster back to meet the stiffener edge, but decided to leave well enough alone. Lesson learned: Take your time and THINK before you do.

Jeff, Ya know, I kept looking at the black holster and thinking that there was something just not quite right.....tried your suggestion and it really brought everything together. That's what's so great about this site. Folks that have done this stuff a few times are willing to share with us newbies....thanks for the tip. BTW, just finished an avenger style for the Shield based on your pattern and once again, it's right on the money. BondoBob and Whistler, Thanks for the comments. Whistler, I can't give you much info. on tanning the tails as I buy them (from Sheridan Leather) already tanned. I will offer my experience with working it however: I love the stuff. It dyes very well, is really easy to shape, etc., and wears like iron. I have a set of bucking rolls that are at least 10 years old, and there is very little wear showing on them. Develops a pretty nice patina. You do have to split the tails down before use as the base is significantly thicker than the tip. All in all, it's a great inlay material...gives you texture without the worry of losing detail when wet forming vs. tooling.

I got pretty much the same measurements as Dan: .805" thick 1.255" wide 5.0" overall length (from back of base plate to front top of feed lips) This is a new 96 magazine, but the dimensions are exactly the same as 92 mags (I shoot both out of the same gun, changing only barrels). Disclaimer: You can shoot both 9mm and .40 cal out of a 96 frame and slide with just a change in barrels, but highly inadvisable to go the other way Rick

Here are my two latest holsters. Black one is a tooled pancake style for S&W Shield with matching mag. pouch...pretty straightforward using JLS' pattern. Other is an avenger style with beavertail inlay for a 1911 Officer's Model (3.5" barrel). It was a little more challenging in that I had to modify a full-sized 1911 pattern. I added a sight guard to the original pattern. Could use a few little tweaks to make it perfect, namely I need to take another 1/4" off the bottom length and add a little more to the sweat guard. Both are for my personal use. Have only made one other holster, so I wanted get comfortable with the process before offering anything up for sale. Next versions should be good to go. These were both hand stitched; I need to get more confidence in my sewing machine (and my own skills) to shorten up the construction time. I gotta say, Jeff's (JLS Leather) patterns are pretty much right on the mark. Have worn these both around the house and in the car, and they carry very well. I made these essentially as range holsters (open carry), but they would work equally well as OWB concealed carry holsters. Thanks for looking: any comments or constructive criticism is appreciated. Rick

Tranger03, Dye is Dark Mahogany, reinforcement piece color is Bordeaux, both from Tandy. It (the reinforcer) is horsehide, and it turned out a little darker and redder than what I imagined. Next holster projects are for an avenger style holster for a 1911 Officer's model (3.5" bbl), and belt, magazine carrier, and pancake holster for a 92FS. I've got some beavertail scraps that I'm thinking would look real nice as framed background on the 1911 reinforcement piece.

Thanks for the comments fellas. Oldnslow, I'm in Placer County (Northern CA, just outside of Sacramento). Most of the Sheriff's in this part of the state are pretty good about issuing license to carry concealed.

Lots of mistakes! My new Shield just got out of jail (stupid California 10 day wait!!!) and I needed an OWB holster for it as a requirement for a CCW class this past weekend. I didn't want to mess around creating a pattern so I downloaded Jeff's (JLS Leather) pancake Shield pattern and went to work. I've gotta say, the pattern is right on the mark in terms of fit and function. I don't really like the ultra-detailed, highly boned look, and what I ended up with has all of the practical elements I was looking for: great retention, excellent grip access, easy draw (once it broke in), very comfortable to wear (3 o'clock is perfect for me). As to the aesthics, there are some issues....first of all, the only suitable leather I had on hand was 6 oz. so I had to go with lining to thicken things up. This caused me to have to stitch the top and bottom open parts as well as the sight protector piece, something I wouldn't have to do on subsequent non-laminated builds. I also forgot to stitch the outer portion until after I formed the holster.....major mistake, as it gave me grief, especially when stitching the toe area (next to the front sight)....the presser foot got hung under the edge of the reinforcement piece and screwed the stitch length up big time. As mentioned, this was a "git 'er done now" project for my own personal use. This would never have gone out even as a gift. Going forward, I need to pay more attention to sanding my edges, sewing things up in the correct sequence, and just take a little more time as I go. I used a Food Saver to form the contours over a Blue Gun....if I want more detail, I'm thinking I'll need to go with my shop press, although the reinforcement piece is a horsehide scrap and I'm not sure how that plus lamination would fare. I did get a few very positive comments at the range....even a potential order for a combo holster, belt, and magazine holder for a Beretta 92FS. All in all, it was a great learning experience and I can't wait to make more holsters. Up til now, most of my stuff has been horse tack, belts, and knife sheaths...next personal project is for an avenger style holster for my Colt Officer's .45. Anyhoo, I thought I'd share my first holster build with y'all. Thanks again to Jeff for a great pattern. Very much open to suggestions/critiques/comments. Rick

I've been very satisfied with 'roo lace from Knotty Linda (Vancouver, B.C.). Lots of widths and lots of colors. www.knottylinda.com

Does anyone know of a supplier for the jointed metal noseband on a lungeing cavesson? Wanting to build one, but searches only lead to complete cavessons.

JohnOK, Here's the process that I came up with....I'm sure there are other ways of accomplishing the same thing: My leather preference is for kangaroo, but I've also used veg tan cow with good results. Essentially, you're making a partially stitched sleeve which is finish stitched after you slip it over the two problem areas--the "U" turn in the clip, and the turned up tip of the clip. Using the clip as a template more or less, you lay out your stitch lines and cut the two pieces, leaving as little edge margin as you find attractive/functional. It gets a little tricky at the tip portion, as the turned up part needs a little extra room to slide through. Stitch just enough of the sleeve to get past the "U" portion of the clip, leaving enough thread on both ends to finish the back side after sliding over the clip. Wet the leather enough to make it pretty flexible but not soggy. You need for it to stretch just a bit to accommodate the turned up tip (it should shrink down to fit as it dries and after you form it with the small dowel). Slip the sleeve over the clip and finish stitching both sides down the back portion of the clip. Use a small dowel to smooth everything out and conform to the clip contours. I have done this both with and without adhesive....my preference is to glue the clip to the sleeve, but you have to work fast while the glue still acts as a lubricant and hasn't started to set yet. With no glue, I grease up the clip with saddle soap or Lexol glycerine cleaner to help reduce friction. Hope this doesn't sound too scattered! If you have any questions, pm me and I will be glad to walk you through it. Rick

Will Ghormley has some real nice ones....not cheap, but well made and look great.

Tallbald, Covering the clips with leather is a bit of a pain for sure, but it's really not that difficult. I got tired of scuffing my belts and cover all of my clips now (prefer not to use them unless no alternative, or customer pref.)

Tallbald, You could always cover the clips with leather.