makitmama

I did find the 1.25 tabbed buckles at Ohio Travel Bag but they have a rivet tab that is quite long. Knowing the name would help me find more.

it is currently attached with a rivet- I need to find a replacement. Do you just add the little metal piece over the center push?

see ISMACS 29 page at the following address- lots of pretty pictures and great info. I will be happy to take that one off your hands if you decide you don't want it. http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-29-leather-stitching-sewing-machine.html

I have used a Singer 66 for 5oz total, using a hand crank. That was a belt with inlaid snake. I used a Zeus Machines Pfaff 130 with an upgraded motor for 7 oz total, but that really pushed it.

I am working on a large luggage piece. My leather is soft enough that I can tell it will need some internal support. Interior base is 9"x19", and I need to support up about 8" on each end. I had planned on wet forming some 7oz veg tan, but now I worry that will buckle. I could use a 90-degree suitcase end brace to support the ends of the veg tan, but are there any other solutions? I have never used any of the heat-molded plastics on the market- for heat, I have a heat gun and an oven. If I wanted to use plastic, which kind could I mold at home? where could I buy it? how do you cut this stuff?

I must confess that I have a whole set of CDs I made up, and use a different one for each task. Hand quilting/jewelry making? Harry Chapin/James Taylor/Carole King. Fast housework? ZZTop/BTO/classic rock. cross-country drive? southern trash rock. sewing on my Class IV? hymns/southern gospel. That way when I pray that the bobbin doesn't run out/needle doesn't break/thread doesn't jam, I can pray to music. Since starting the gospel music, I haven't hit or kicked my machine once.

I am trying to set up my new Cowboy 3500- this machine is quite heavy, and I know even with help we can't lift it up to the table at its current height. How do you raise and lower the table? I see 4 bolts, and two metal flanges that fold down on the front and back- I can't get them to shift, release, etc.

I have a background in textile work, and learned to machine sew on my gran's singer 15 treadle and electric 201. I have both these machines, and about 50 other vintage machines. I am nuts about class 15 japanese clones(same basic mechanism as the singer 15, readily available parts, great casting, etc). I have several machines built by toyota in the 1950's that are workhorses. To effectively sew with a vintage singer 15 or clone, you are going to need a 1 to 1.5 amp motor. A walking foot doesn't hurt. However, you are still limited to size 69 thread. I prefer to use thread lube if I am going to be sewing a lot of long runs. I also have a Pfaff 130, which can use a slightly larger thread. Limitation is still about 5 oz of leather total. So if you want a bunch of various machine specs, let me know...

I seriously love this. Minimalist, clean, functional. just gorgeous.

I think your hardware is amazing.

actually, I have made a couple of prototypes for this style bag. Not western tooling patterns, but celtic/tattoo patterns. I think this style is making a comeback. I also plan to make another vintage style bag... from an old Tandy pattern. I think they called it a 'shopper'.

great wallet... I made up a couple of samples- both in 4oz outer and 2oz liner- one similar to yours above, and one with vertical card holders on one side. The second one folds to 2 7/8 by 5 1/2. I think I am going to have to go to a thinner outer leather. Did you hand stitch your wallet in the photo? I machine stitched my samples to get them done, and planned to hand stitch the final version- but I do have a Boss coming this week...

soooo after making fabric clutch-style wallets for years, I made some leather wallets for spouse and friends. The spouse was easy: hog + machismo = biker wallet. The guys who wanted bi-fold traditional wallets were easy. But I have two friends who want 'front pocket' wallets. One asked if I could put a snap on a bi-fold to hold it closed, and the other wants one that is 4x6. Aren't these too bulky for a front pocket and dress pants? the snap guy loves my 6oz veg tan- but how could I make something 2 1/2x 3 1/2 folded shut in leather that thick? and how in blazes could I put a snap on it without cracking credit cards? I guess I just don't get the front pocket thing. any advice? suggestions? pix of wonderful examples?

got a set of gifts- I had asked for Eco-Flo waterstain, but ended up with both EF waterstain and EF leather dye. Both are water based. I plan to apply with an airbrush. Can these products be mixed? can they be layered over one another? And can EF antique go over both? I have fruitlessly searched the Tandy site and the internet. I have a tooled piece ready to dye but am afraid to use both product lines together.

I find a lot of inspiration on Pinterest; try searching for typography or calligraphy - I also love http://www.fromupnorth.com/lettering-calligraphy-inspiration-1134/ I will often look for inspiration, then start designing the project a few days later. I don't want copy someone, but broaden my horizons and then find my own way.

sure beats my first bag!

I like that a lot- and would use it daily.

great idea- thanks. This bag is supposed to have a 'rustic' finish, so I have some play with the color.

actually, the teenager did, just after I unbagged my piece. Nail polish remover, maybe a scattered teaspoon or two, which I immediately wiped up. Now however, the majority of the piece is cased and ready to carve, and where the acetone hit the veg-tan is grayish. This piece is partially carved already, and I was going back to do another section. I imagine this will impact my Feibings dye after tooling- any suggestions? wet the whole section down in acetone? go buy 10 bottles of wally world nail polish remover and wipe it all? and then, wipe the other cut pieces before dying? I stuck it back in the bag until I could get advice. I don't want to loose detail where I have already carved by going back over it, unless I have to.

my son-in-law loves the briefcase I made my husband. It is veg tan, custom painted, and finished with beeswax/neatsfoot. It has developed a nice patina. My SIL wants a finish like you see from expensive retailers like Copper River, Saddleback, etc. It is usually referred to as a rustic or distressed finish, and looks sort of like matte nubuck-ish or oil tanned leather. I have a nice side of HO veg tan, and think that veg tan makes a better attache than oil-tan. To make it stiff enough in oil tan, the leather would have to be too thick for my old consew. so- how about feiblings with Bick-4, so that I can put on a less even finish? I have NEVER tried to put on uneven color, and use an airbrush usually. But by hand, I think I can vary the amount of dye in the Bick and get a less even finish. I figure I may need to lightly sand the edges with denim or a dremel to 'distress' them. my question for the group- how do I get such a matte finish? and does anyone have any advice? I showed him some pix of leather pressed onto concrete or rocks, and that was too distressed for him- what he really wants is: http://www.copperriverbags.com/the-bolinas-17-distressed-tan-voyager-laptop-bag-made-in-the-u-s-a-17-v-dis-lap/

I am unable to sew/demo this right now- but a couple of quick links: see 5:40 of this video: or: https://craftapple.wordpress.com/2007/09/01/sewing-tip-squarely-boxing-those-corners/ this link shows what I was describing with pulling the triangle up outside and using a rivet: http://www.creative-cloth.com/how-to-sew-box-corners-on-a-bag-then-make-them-creative/

I make a ton of totes out of lightweight leather. I usually go for 2.5-3oz, and use lamb, goat, cow, or whatever except for veg tanned- any leather works as long as it has a pretty soft hand. to make a simple handbag, cut out two pieces with rounded bottoms, stitch right-sides together, turn right-side out, and add straps. This is typically called a hobo bag. To make a simple tote, sew two rectangles together(on both sides and bottom seam) and 'box' the bottom corners, add straps and you are done. There are literally hundreds of free online patterns designed for fabric- but often fabric patterns don't translate exactly to leather. Stick to patterns that aren't fussy, or have lots of pockets and shaping. If you want some links to patterns I used when I was starting, then PM me. I forgot to explain what boxing a corner is- basically, you take your inside out tote and pull the two bottom sides until the seam down the side and the seam across the bottom(which is actually the same line of stitching) line up. Clip both folds you made with binder clips to hold the pieces straight. Then, stitch perpendicular to the original sewn seam, forming a triangle. You can leave this excess leather attached, or cut it flush. Then, turn your tote right side out. Sometimes when doing an attache I stitch the box on the outside, then fold the triangled seam up and rivet the top of the triangle. sorry I don't have any pix of this in process- but if ya'll want pix, let me know.

there are some 'tobacco flower' and tobacco leaf scents that are wonderful- very masculine, and I am positive that they are blended into the 'new leather' scent you see in some car products. Contact the company I linked above and ask them what they recommend to smell like new leather- they are great folks to work with. note- these tobacco scents smell nothing like cigarettes, which surprised me.

http://www.chemistrystore.com/ is my favorite vendor. They can also explain the difference, for instance, between Rosemary Oleoresin and Rosemary essential oil. Also a great source for palm oil, shea butter, or anything else to make your spouse happy. 'Body Butter' at a fancy store is 25-30 bucks, and I make it literally for 3 bucks. Using pure ingredients and no chemicals. Oh, and I would put my waxed canvas up against Filson or any of the other expensive brands in a heart-beat. Just be careful in really hot climates...

I make a lot of waxed canvas and leather bags. I have a mix of 60% beeswax and 40% oil that I use- and the last batch was done with sweet almond oil. I always put in 0.5% rosemary essential oil because it is a natural antibacterial/preservative, and makes everything smell wonderfully pine-scented. This 'recipe' developed as it did because I make many of my own skin products- scrubs, shea butter, soap, lotion, lip balm, et cetera. I do not sell stuff anymore, so I don't send it off to the FDA to be tested- but I preferred rosemary to germicides in my skin stuff. No rosemary EO for pregnant women, please! I have a bag that has been carried for 8 years by my spouse, who is Air Force. Of course, I don't know everywhere this bag has been, but he has put it thru the wringer. I used Horween straps/flaps/tabs, and have had to replace a couple of snaps with carabiniers. I just re-waxed it this winter, and it is holding up well. I love the patina of beat-up waxed canvas! to make a long story short, I have stopped doing my canvas first and then sewing my bag. It is easier on my equipment to make the bag first, including leather. Then, I wipe on my soft smooshy oil mix, grab the heat gun, and melt it into the fabric and leather.