Geneva

You should watch out for govliquidation.com. They sold a pair of 144w-10's last fall for 175 for both machines. You have to pick this stuff up yourself.

If after all of this time you have not sold anything through ecommerce, I would find a different hobby if I were you.

You probably did read some where the 95 and 96 will sew leather; on one of those stupid auctions that is listed on ebay. The guys that advertise those machines as being capable of sewing 6 to 8 ounce leather are basically liars. That machine will not do. It can not stand being run on 7 or 8 ounce material as a steady diet. It is designed to sew canvas not leather. You need a Singer 111w153, Juki LU-562 or 563 an Adler 67, 167, 267, 467; Phaff 335, Tech Sew makes a good one. They are all walking foot machines and will sew 3/8th of an inch material. If you want to start a business don't mess around with the houseshold machines they will not work. Good luck.

You better buy a sewing machine capable of sewing leather and forget the hand wheel. You can not use a 92 thread on this machine it will not work. The machine was designed to sew around 3500 stitches per minute on light cloth to medium cloth.

NY covers a large area. You need to narrow the field a great deal. Where are you located??

I don't know where Paso Robles is located in reference to where you live but there is s Consew 206rb for sale at $675 on Craigslist. I think this would make an excellent machine for your shop.

You being a novice should believe your elders when they talk of things you don't know anything about. I posted a note about this veru subject 4 or 5 weeks ago. No one heard a word I said. The gentleman you talked to hit the nail on the head!!!!!!!! Leather does not loose oil when it is tanned it loses fat. The tallow is used before the finish sealer is applied. I use Resolene as a sealer and finish for my stuff after applying tallow. You willl not believe the difference in the feel of the finished prdoduct. Good luck practicing with the tallow.

You can use whatever you want to to put it together

That is a box stitch. It works best with leather 7 oz. or thicker leather. Except the wooden form needs to have the corners cut back about 1\4" to 3\8" inch. There are no right angles in the corners of the jig there is not a piece of wood in the corner to nail to. Also you will need to bevel both edges of the leather . Lay out all of the stitch holes before you sew it together. Neither of the stitch lines is set at an angle it is a regular saddle stitch when properly executed There will be two almost 45 degree angles on the leather edges to sew together. I use two pieces of steel to make the angle on the leather. One piece is layed on the bottom of the material and the other is layed on the top of the material creating a sandwich effect. The top piece of steel is moved back from the edge of the material about 3\16" to 1\4" or farther back if needed, clamped in place and cut with a utility knife of what ever you want to cut it with. What you are doing is using the two steel pieces as a cutting guide for the bevel for the leather and cutting out the corner of the leather. This is how I achieve the mittered effect illustrated in the above photo. I hope this makes sence. It is a really great looking stitch when you are finished. Good luck.

I use a piece of HDPP, 1" thick high density polypropalene, in red. I have had it for about 5 or 6 years works great.

I would like to have these measurements for the Arabian. I know they are not as wide as a standard horse halter and a little longer at the cheek too but I don't know the difference for sure. Thanks in advance for any help.

It is called pebble grain.

I have been in your shop. I see four things wrong with your product. 1. It overpriced 2. It is not finished. There should be a liner in the wallet not ink pen marks around the perimeter of the product. 3. Very few people know what Horween leather is. 4. The stitch seems are crooked and thread you used is to large. A 138 or a 92 thread would be better. In my opinion, Good luck on selling stuff.

Beef tallow works best. I apply it with a piece of sheepskin with the wool left own. It is applied like shoe polish small dabs at a time rubbed thoroughly over the entire area rub until it disappears into the leather, before the sealer is applied. I use Resolene on a damp cloth (towel junk tee shirt) not diluted. When this done properly upon looking at and picking up the project, either a belt or horse tack, you will be able to tell at a touch if this is a quality product. Good luck.

Amuckart The stand for the 29-4 will work to mount your 45 on. You will need to fix a couple of new holes in order to mount it. Have fun.

Of all the posts about "how to" and what "not" to how to I have yet to see anyone mention the most "important" step in making a belt. Are you guys keeping this a trade secret?? As far as I can tell you guys don't have a clue as to how to make a belt that doesn't bleed dye onto something. Were is the tallow that is supposed to be applied to the belt before finishing??

This guy must be nearsighted 7 quarters stacked up do not equal 3/4" it is only 9/16ths of an inch. Look to Bob Kovar, Steve at Cobra sales, Nick-o-sew in Tennessee, Ralph Sewing, Keystone Sewing or anyone else on this board. NOT EBAY.

Not sure where you got this information but the GA5 owes more to ADLER than Singer. The Singer 45k and ADLER 4 are two of the most commonly used leather machines over the last 100 years and were never intended for cloth. Many saddlers swear by these machines and with the correct set up and proper operation will sew leather without leaving marks. You should stick to a subject you know something about. The GA5 is an outright copy of the Singer 45k 90 percent of the parachute rigging and tents and other parts that were sewn during WW2 was sewn by the 45k. The 45k11 was first made to sew awnings in 1926.

CSOsborne.com They have what you are looking for.

I use a #22 needle in my 29-4, size 92 & 69 work the best. Needles 18 & 20 for the smaller thread work better on bonded nylon, polyester and linen thread will all work. Good luck.

I copied your Dropbox schematic from College Sewing and attached it to this reply. I circled the parts in black that are probably causing your problem. Your bobbin doesn't move back far enough to catch the thread at the needle for the bobbin hook to catch it. This is probably caused by these worn parts. What size needle and what size thread are you using? The machine can only use the 29-4 needle and thread is limited to size 92. Hope this helps good luck to ya'.

This is a "ruffler" model Adler it likes to make moccasins it does "ruffle" the leather. I had one of these at one time finally sold it. Scratched the material to much. Good luck.

The 29k will only sew about 1/4 inch. If you want to sew 3\4 inch you will need something along the lines of a Juki tsc 441, Singer 144w, Landis #3, Landis #16, Adler 205-370 this does not include all of the chinese knockoff crap. Good luck.

Bryan M. I think you uncovered his true identity.

This is not a walking foot machine. It is a chinese knockoff of the Singer 45k. I think you would do better with a walking foot machine for the leather products. These machines tend to mark the back side of the leather and leave drag marks on the finished side as well. Their intended use is cloth material these short comings can be over come. It should be able to sew 1/2 to 5/8ths inch with no problem. I put a roller foot on the on I have it works much better. Mine is a Singer 45k21 it is older than I am it was made in 1946. I don't know where you are located but this might be of interest. It is a Toro 3200 listed on Craigslist in western Pennsylvania it has a very good price on it. Good luck.