Geneva

I agree with JLS the material those bags are made from look to be latigo belly must have cost at least 5.00 apiece.

Forget that eco-flow crap that is what the tree hugers want you to use. Stick with Feibings or better yet Angelus they are the best.

This is a high speed needle position motor with a roller foot. High speed is around 3500 to 5000 stitches per minute. Bob is right it will not sew more than .25 inches of material. You don't want this machine. The machine you are looking for will sew around 5/8" of material or more. Speed should be around 600 to 800 spm. It will be a walking foot machine. This one is not a walking foot. You will need to find more money for your sewing machine requirements. Good luck.

That is the leather not the finish you applied. I don't think it will l come off.

Did you place the scarf next to the hook with the long slot to the left? It sounds as though the timing is out of sync. The Tippmann does not like skinny material and small thread. It works best with 10 oz or better

Yes shuttle. My fingers typed the wrong word.

Is the bobbin with the machine? There is a gentleman in Illinois that restores these machines. The name of the shop is Landis Sales phone 217 five four three 3 four 6 four. They ain't cheap. This machine was made around 1900. If there is no bobbin with the machine I would offer one hundred dollars for it. The bobbin is located under the sheet metal on the left side of the needle bar. It slides out to the left if it isn't rusted shut. Where do you live? If you decide to sell it I would like to figure the shipping. Good luck.

The only difference I see between the two models is the ugly brown paint on the newer stuff.

This is not a problem you are creating. I have never soaked leather to split it. I have been practicing at being a leather worker for 14 years or there about. There is something wrong with your new toy. It sounds as though the two roll's are not parallel with each other. Make sure to turn the machine off. Turn the rolls down until they touch and check the clearance on both sides and on each end of the rolls. Either with a feeler gauge or by eyesight.

It is a Landis wax thread regular lock stitch sewing machine. Is it for sale?

I forgot the loop that holds everything together. It is 1" x 3/8"

OTB has a 50 dollar minimum order. You don't need a tax anything. The two hole 1" wide frog (hook) is around .70 cents each the three rivet frog is 2.19 each they are for the 1 1/4" slings. Do not use latigo leather. I use Herman Oak 10-12 oz. and I split it down to an even 10oz. Front half of the sling is 1"x48" long the rear piece is 1"x30" in length. It is made of 9 to 10 oz. material. The belt keepers are 1" wide made from 4 or 6oz. leather I use belt loop staples to fasten the ones I make. The hole spacing is 1 1/4" the spread of the holes is 3/4" center. You will need 3/16"x5/16" rivets to attach the hook. 2 hooks per sling 2 belt keepers per sling. Google the sling name as "03-A3 sling". There are lots of them. Good luck. I sell a bunch of these things before hunting season gets started. Whole sale is 12-14 $ a piece.

i have never heard of a Lumberto's Classic. You probably mean Luberto Classic.

Highlead GC2698-1B Small Cylinder Arm Walking Foot w/ Large Horizontal Hook

www.bluegrasshorsesupply.com should have what you want.

Hey Chris, have you sold the machine yet? I would be able to pickup the machine with cash in hand. Let me know what you want for it.

What material was the belt made from? Sounds as though it is latigo. I always cut the strap length and width that I need from latigo and then I stretch it by hand. If I get any movement above quarter inch I will not use that piece of leather because it will break. Just a thought.

Good find! I especially like the home-made speed reducer/increaser. I've thought about trying to come up with one of those to reduce the speed on my Consew 225. CD in Oklahoma These reducers are very easy to make. All you need is an 8" pully and a 2 1/2" pully. I used the 3/4" bore for both of my pullies. Get yourself a 2 1/2" wide piece of 3/8th's inch plate 10" long. Drill a 3/4" hole 1 1/2 inch from the bottom of the plate. I used a drive pin to lock the two pullies together three holes at 120 degrees apart. Now on the other end of the plate bend a right angle 1 3/4" from the end of the plate. A torch helps with this part. Now you can do the next step before or after the right angle. Drill 2 5/16" holes about 7/8" from the edge on this right angle the 1 3/4" part. These holes are for the mounting bolts for the table. I took my machine table apart and turned it upside down and layed out the mount for the reducer. I will remind you your motor drives the small pully the 8" pully drives your machine. Don't for get to offset the reducer mount and leave room for the pullies. Get the pullies in the correct order to make belt change easy. I put a zerk fitting in the 8" pully for lube on the 3/4" bolt. You might need a couple of washers to move the pulley to the left to get on center of the motor pully You will probably need to have new belts for this setup. Good luck I hope I made sence with the directions.

You are absolutely right.

If you know the customers pant size there is no guessing as to the size of the belt.

My method will work. The reason for the 1 1/4" bag punch is that the radius of the buckle tongue is that long. One inch is to small unless you use those cheezy stamped sheet metal buckles I have been using this method for ten years. Good luck

The best guess is not the way to make a belt. What is needed is the size of the pants the customer wears, this is very important. The belt size they wear is the next size. To make a belt blank for this gentleman or lady you would add 9 inches to length of the waste measurement. If the pants size is 40 that would make a size 42 belt. You would cut the blank to 51 inches in length. I use a 1 1/4"bag punch for the belt tongue. I use Chicago screws to fasten the belt and hold the buckle. I use a 5/8ths inch wide belt keeper. Starting at the left end of the blank measure out 1/2" the next measure is 1 1/2" from the 1/2" start. Next is 3/4" from the 1 1/2" mark. The 1 1/4" bag punch goes here. This 3/4" mark is the left side of the 1 1/4" bag punch. The next mark is 3/4" from the right side of the bag punch hole. The next hole from there is 1 1/2". There will be two holes on the left of the bag punch and two holes on the right side of the bag punch hole. Measure from the center of the bag punch hole to the belt size of 42 inches. Mark this hole. Then put two holes on the left side of this mark and two holes on the right side they are spaced 1 1/4". You will then have a three inch over hang for the belt to go through the belt loop. If you want a longer over hang cut the belt blank longer. I make all of my belts from this layout.

It will work.

You need to contact those folks at aleatherd.com They are located in Morgantown, Ky 1-800-624-7642. I think you will like their leather I know I do.

The part number he is showing in the diagram is the correct part for your sewing machine. I have one just like it. 67-373 Adler