Geneva
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Everything posted by Geneva
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What To Use To Sand Belt Loops
Geneva replied to rccolt45's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
I have never sanded a belt loop. You should make sure your edging tool is sharp though -
It resembles a bobbin winder but I think there are some parts missing. How much do you want for your #6?
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I think you would be farther ahead looking in second hand shops and used clothing stores for the leather you are looking for. Just a thought.
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Usually the maximum amount of lift is obtained by a knee lift device on the bottom of the sewing machine table. The hand operated lift will not go that high. I have included a file you might like. I think the price if to high but that it up to you. 400 I think would get it. These are old machines some of them were built in the 30's to 60's. Like you a gentleman told me that the 144 I bought from him was the finest machine east of the Mississippi. The machine was built around 1944 it is older than I am. It has been worn out twice and is in need of some parts to fix the machine. Needless to say he too was a bald face liar. Good luck. 111W156.pdf
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Anyone Heard Of A Ddn-738 Yakumo Cylinder Machine?
Geneva replied to KandB's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
That machine lays down a great looking stitch. WOW! It looks like a cross breed between a Singer 45 and the 105 Adler ruffler. If you can live without the walking foot. Parts?? How hard is it to get parts for it?? I think the price is a little high but I am not selling machine. Nakajima is a quality machine made in Japan. I don't have any idea how old this machine is. Maybe Wiz Craft will see this and make a recommendation. I would call the dealer's number that is stuck to the machine and see if he is still in operation. Good luck with this. -
Dwight is correct. Anything applied to Resolene after the Resolene is dried is useless. I use an old wash cloth to apply Resolene then rinse it out after using it. Apply before starting the project and let it dry. I have never reduced the strength of Resolene. That's my 2 cents.
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The older machines are cast iron. They are definitely the better machine. Your machine likes the polyester thread better than the nylon or at least mine did. The 7x3 (canvas point) or 4 (leather point) needle in the 20 to 25 size will work too. Yes wrap the thread around the tension disc 1 and 1/2 times before going to the spring take up. Your machine will function much better if you have it bolted to a solid foundation or the horse that it is sold with. Pull the handle like you mean it don't be lackadaisical pulling the handle. Matchlock is correct about the lube pot don't get one. Good luck
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I have had this tool for a couple of years but I don't use it much. I would like it to go to a different home. It is a Geo Barnsley & Sons of Sheffield, England. I do not know the year of manuf. it is a nice tool. The makers mark is on both pieces of the tool. It is a 5" width with a brass roller there is surface rust on the blade and side guide too. It should buff out easily. What is in the pictures is what you are buying. I would like 200 for the tool. Maybe Mr. Johnson would take a look and comment as to the quality of the tool. Thank's
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You will not be able to do what your want to do with leather and T shirts. Leather does not wash.
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Call this guy 217 543 3464. He has a lot of Landis stock and parts.
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Copy and paste http://www.parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/96-10_12_16.pdf
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I rechecked Ohio Travel Bag for the stuff you are looking for. On pages 11 through 17 are all kinds of rivets in brass and nickle plated brass plus the caps for the tubular rivets. Page 26 at the bottom of the page are the line 20 snaps they are just about 10 mm the add says they are 1\2". There is a supplier located in Ronks, Pa. that I have used for 7 or 8 years. They are amish they don't have computers thus no web site. They do have a catalog. Beiler's Manuf. Supply 3025 Harvest Drive Ronks, Pa. 17527. Phone is 717 768 0174. If you are interested. Hope this helps.
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You want tubular rivets not solid brass. They would be brass rivets with chrome plate or nickle plate. Tubular rivets come with a cap available at extra cost they are not sold in sets and there are the speedy rivets also called rapid rivets they have two piece's sold together. I don't use to many glove snaps. Ohio Bag should have these rivets in their book.
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Need 'stainless Steel Buckles' For English Leathers
Geneva replied to GrampaJoel's topic in Saddle Supplies, Tools & Trees
The buckle you are looking for is on page 33 item 2418 English Stirrup Buckle from 3/4" to 1 1/4". They are either stamped or casted stainless steel. The price for one piece or 99 pieces of 3/4" is 0.93 cents. If you get 100 pieces or more they drop to 0.84 cents each. I have used these folks for 7 or 8 years with no problems. Just like the man from Texas said. -
Yes, how many do you want? Do a search with the phrase "sew up the arm". Yes a patcher will sew up the arm, but not the thickness he is talking about.
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You would not be able to put a roller foot on it. I have a 31-19 Singer walking foot I would be willing to sell. This is a walking foot machine with one quarter inch beneith the pressure foot. It is a very nice piece sews great you would need to slow it down though it runs around 2000 spm. The machine was made in England around 1950 I think. 100 plus shipping will get it.
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You should look again at Kijiji. 2nd page of industrial sewing machine search leads to a Mason Highspeed Walking foot machine for 500. I believe this is what you are looking for. All you need to do is slow the speed of the machine down it runs around 2000 stitches per minute. You only need 6-8 hundred stitches per minute. Good luck.
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Don't apologize for needing information and help. If the lower thread is flat across the bottom of the material there is to much tension on the bobbin spring. Get a very small screwdriver and back the screw up 1/2 to 3/4's of a turn make small corrections not seven or eight turns at once. Make sure you are loading the bobbin the right direction when you put it in. Back off on the upper tension 2 or 3 turns. Test this adjustment and see how it sews. No, holding the thread at start up will not take care of the tension problem but it will stop the machine from pulling the thread out of your material. I assume you have not slowed your machine down? It will sew much better around 700 to 800 spm. Not what it was set at the factory to run. If you can spring for one you need a servo motor for your new toy. You will not believe the difference in the machine's performance. I bought mine from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines at the top of the page. Hope this helped.
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Good going. It will make your shop. There are some parts missing I have enclosed a photo of what is missing from the cutting table. I hope the photo is large enough to see the missing parts. There is a steel frame around the backing board that is bolted to the table also. There is a backing board on your's but it is made of plywood and lacking the steel frame and hold down parts. You can turn the machine into single phase without to much trouble. It maybe easier said than done but all you need is a single phase motor and an electrican to rewire it. Good luck to you.
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You have the best machine Consew makes for what you want to do. Copy and past this url http://www.consew.co...w-Model-255RB-3. It sews to fast for leather but bring on the upholstery. The needles I believe are the 135 system in the number 17,18,19,20,21,22 and 23 they run to 25. Slow the machine down and it will sew 207 thread in the top and in the bottom.
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The pressure on the machine arm is around 15 to 18 ton. It is almost identical to the United Shoe Machine Model C. The weight of the machine is around 2200 pounds. I bought one for 75 dollars at an auction 5 or 6 years ago. Terrific machine. Parts are available. Good luck getting it home.
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How much shorter? Can you post a picture? Most likely the shorter needles are 328 size. It is a shorter version of the 794 that the Boss uses. If you do use this needle you will need to retime your machine this will place the needle bar closer to the arm than the 794. I don't know if they will work.
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Most if not all treadle machines will sew only 1/4" material. Forget the 99 and 128 they are not designed to sew leather. A steady diet of leather will beat them to pieces. The 145 is your best choice it can handle the small stuff as well as the heavy stuff. The 145 can use the 7x3 needle or the 794 needle that Schmetz makes. I have a 144w103 (brother of 145) that will sew 3 and 4 ounce material simply by switching the needle out to a 7x3 and the thread to a #92 or a 69 if I need to excellent machine. Don't undersize your machine needs get one that will do what you are going to sew. That is my 2 cents. Good luck.
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Singer 111G156 - Timing Belt Replacement
Geneva replied to Constabulary's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
The attached file will be of help with your problem. 111W156.pdf -
Making First Headstall...what Order Do I Do What?
Geneva replied to cmantz's topic in Saddle and Tack Accessory Items
A suggestion. Don' t sew the insert from the same stitch as the outside stitching. Does your machine have reverse? If it does not have reverse do not start to sew the insert on the same line as the the main stitching. Back stitch the insert about 3 or 4 stitches turn the piece around on the machine and finish sewing. You will end up with two distinct sewing lines and they will not run together.