Geneva

I made some of this for the first time the other day. Should the vinegroon mixture be filtered until there is only the clear liquid remaining? Baking soda is the neutralizer of the odor correct?. This stuff looks as if it is great for dyeing I tried a new belt dyed with it. So far so good. It is a piece of 10-12 oz. veg tan.

Curious, why would you make a belt that is double layered? I would think a single ply would work better.

I posted a reply to this very question. The bag is made from chrome tanned leather that has had a good deal of oil added to it. It is often refereed to as oil tanned leather crazy horse has nothing to do with it. Crazy horse is not a process for tanning leather it is only a name given to it to boost sales of this type of leather. There are no pieces glued or sewn inside the leather to make it stiff. ALL leather is full grained that referees to the top grain of the leather. My sources are telling me that is not possible to achieve the look of that tobacco briefcase using full grain leather, is that true? You should not ask any more questions of your sources they don't know what they are talking about.

If you still have loops after tightening the top as far as it will go you need to tighten the bottom tension not loosen it. Tighten the shuttle spring tension 1/4 to 1/2 turn and check stitching for loops.

Try this too. saddlemakers.org/id128.htm

Try this. Find a very small screwdriver and tighten the tension spring on the shuttle do a 1/4 turn of the screw at a time until you get the proper tension.

Yes, the dye will turn the thread. Dye first, finish stitching.

Do you have the bobbin in backwards? Just a thought.

All leather is full grained. It becomes suede when it is split and top grain removed and processed more in the tannery for a different type of leather. The leather used for the bag looks to be a 6oz. oil tanned leather and you can most definitely achieve the same look that is in the photo. The attachment for the handle, snaps, d-rings looks like it has been split to 4oz. material. The handle itself looks to be 6oz. Personally on the next bag I would move the buckles farther up on the bag and shorten the flap of the bag a couple of inches and add some decoration to the top half of the buckle closure but it is your bag not mine. On this type of leather you will not apply any sealer or finish to it. Just don't get any big scratches on it before the customer picks it up. Hope this helps.

You might want to try leatherunltd.com they have the material you are after. I don't know their selling price.

Odds cool hit this one on the head. Eco flo is crap. Get the Feibings dye either in Pro grade or regular without the oil. Resolene is an ammonia based finish it penetrates the leather with no problem. Once it is applied there is nothing that will penetrate the finish it provides. Make sure your piece is dry before applying it. I use the Black Resolene also. Make sure your leather piece is dry before applying. I use a piece of sheep skin with the wool as an applicator it can be rinsed out with hot water before it dries. Good luck on your next project with black dye.

After having done the same thing losing my pattern I finally wrote these dimensions in a book of patterns; titled Book of Patterns. The pattern I use is the same as Dirtclods except for the throat. I use 45 inches.

1/8th inch tubular.

Try leatherunltd.com

You have learned not to make your dog collars from latigo. It has a very bad habit of stretching. I make a 1" wide collar out of English bridle and I use natural tanned vegetable leather, harness leather too. The only time I oil the natural tan is to change the color to a medium brown. I never oil my collars. Another great material is harness leather. The weight of all my collars is 10/12 ounce material. This will hold a dog weighing around 40 pounds. If you do decide to put reinforcement in the collar you will need for sure a good walking foot machine capable of 1/2" sewing. I use 3/8th inch tubular rivets to lock the buckle and d-ring in place with a belt keeper also. I edge every thing with a #1 edging tool. As far as the finish goes I don't put any finish on the material. Once in a while I will finish with Resolene. Keep in mind that once you apply Resolene the material is sealed nothing will penetrate Resolene other than Acetone to remove the Resolene and return to the original finish of the material. You should make a practice of trying to stretch your collar before you make it. If you can stretch it (more than 1/4") a dog will wreck it and your reputation. I hope my 2 cents helped. Best of luck to your new and improved dog collar.

The Singer 111 manual should work for the Juki.

Yes, it is still for sale. I don't know who asked first. I think soccerdad was, please correct me if I am wrong.

Sharpen the blade. There are nicks on the cutting edge.

These things lost their selling price a long time ago. You can buy a 132 Randall at auction for around 3 or 4 hundred bucks with the blades and spacers.

This machine is not acceptable for sewing leather. It is basically a toy. In my opinion.

I found a picture of this machine online. It appears to be a high speed straight stitch machine upwards of 3000 stitches per minute. It depends on how high the pressure foot will lift as to what you can get under it to sew. If it will lift 10 or 12mm you should be ok with the leather. To sew leather you need to slow the machine down to 600 to 800 stitches per minute. There are two ways to do this. The best is to install a servo motor that will operate from 0 to 3000 stitches per minute. They are controllable with the adjustments that are built into the motor. The second is to install a speed reducer pulley. This fix will be a constant speed it can not increase the speed of the machine. The speed will be just about what you want to sew leather with. I hope this helps. Good luck with your project. Two machines would be the best.

This is not a walking foot sewing machine. It is a straight stitch sewing machine with a roller foot. You can not make a walking foot out of it.

The question is for Redrum. Not this topic specifically. Why do you call yourself Murder? I think I would have selected a different nick name.

It depends on what you are planning to emboss with your new fonts and press. You will not be able to use the lead type with the press you are thinking about from Harbor Freight. The only thing this type used was ink stuck on paper not leather with 6 or 7 ton behind it. A heat transfer press would work best for this type of printing not a press from Harbor Freight. Good luck.

A used Tippmann should sell for around 5-600 depending on the accessories probably a little more. One of the Tippmann reps told me this 4 or 5 years ago when I bought mine. I ended up paying 500 for all in your photo except the thread. It came with one spool of black 277. It had the table with it too. Good luck with your purchase.