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Posts posted by garypl
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You did a beautiful job on this project. Have you tried filling it up to capacity? Looks like it will stick out from your back about 2-3 feet LOL!
Gary
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7 minutes ago, Webicons said:
They both work well and, in my experience, performance compared to each other depends on how thick the paint is. The mesh one works well with slightly thinner paints like Fenice (preferred) while the Tandy cone worked better with thicker (Buckleguy stuff, not sure who the OEM is).
The mesh applies the paint very evenly but I’ve actually been using the Tandy more recently because it cleans up quickly.
Agree on clean up - I clean my Tandy paint roller in the deep sink using an old toothbrush.
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7 hours ago, Webicons said:
I find that these rollers work really well for applying edge paint such as Fenice. As long as the paint has some body to it, these rollers work well. Cuts the application time by at least 50%.
One of these and a damp rag is what I use.
https://districtleathersupply.com/products/edge-paint-screen-mesh-roller-pen
Similar ones available at Tandy:
https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-pro-edge-dye-roller-pen
I use the Tandy roller pen and works pretty well. Which type do you prefer? (I guess the screen mesh since that is the one you said you use, but is there much difference in performance?)
Gary
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19 minutes ago, BettyJ said:
I know, right? I have literally been having panic attacks making this darn bag.
I won't be doing this for someone again. I'm just not cut out for it.
This may be true, however once you finish it the person receiving it will likely never notice any small flaws that only you will know are there! Since we see every tiny detail in the creation of our projects we know exactly where we had a hiccup and the reality is that most people will never notice. Look at some of the mass produced items you have purchased and upon clos3 inspection I am certain you will find a few flaws!
Gary
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1 hour ago, RKCrowe said:
Hey Pete,
I made a coaster for my mom-n-law, I finished it with a couple coats of well rubbed in bees wax. It keeps the condensation from a glass of iced beverage from being absorbed. But she doesn’t use it because the moisture beads up collects in the tooling and then spills when she picks up the coaster. It of course works perfectly for all other beverages that don’t “sweat”.
This probably doesn’t help you, but there you go.
Richard
I agree about using coasters that do not absorb moisture from a glass - pick up your iced drink and it drips all over you. Now I keep my beverage in a Yeti tumbler and it never sweats, so I don’t use a coaster. Has anyone finished the bottom of a coaster with Resolene or beeswax to keep moisture from soaking through, and left the top surface untreated so it will absorb condensation?
Gary
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That turned out very nice!
Gary
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Glad to help!
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4 minutes ago, BettyJ said:
Thanks for the tip, I didn't realise you could thin out acrylics. Learning so much with this bag. Including just how little patience I have doing work for others. I much prefer making things for me, less stressful
Betty - I agree completely! I do this as a hobby and I just sold my first commission piece to someone that saw a project that I gave as a gift. He was very happy with the results, but I still worried whether I did a good enough job and felt pressure to finish it sooner because he kept asking me about it. Much more relaxing when I am making things for myself or giving items as unexpected gifts!
Gary
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On my PC I use a free program called Irfanview. I size photos to 640 x 480 and they will be plenty small to post.
On the iPad is use an app called Image Size - works well and I size photos to 800 x 600.
Gary
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20 minutes ago, BettyJ said:
Hi Mattsbagger
Opps sorry, I think in my hurry I got the name around backwards. It's this stuff. http://lial.biz/leather-chemicals/edge-burnish/cova-super-edge-coat I bought it while on holiday in Japan.
Oh definitely. I've been experimenting heaps to see what looks good and works. I came up with a bit of a solution for this. I applied two coats, sanded it down, applied another two coats, sanded those down a bit and then a final two coats with some carnuba cream over the top. Looks quite nice. Now to play with it and see how it holds up against the edge of hardware etc to see if it wears off or not.
Betty - Mattsbagger has a good suggestion to practice on scrap before finishing your main project. I would also add that you may want to experiment with thinning the paint with distilled water (or regular if you can’t find distilled). It can make the paint easier to apply and extends the amount of paint you have to use.
Gary
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I wish the politicians would stop trying to save us from ourselves. Term limits would be nice....
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Beautiful job!
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3 hours ago, Sheilajeanne said:
My dad was a public school principal. He kept one strap in his desk at school for official use, and one in his desk at home. I never got strapped at school, but I got to feel the one he kept at home more that a few times! He never hit you very hard, though!
Back in the 1950’s my dad kept a razor strop on a nail in the back of a door. It was two pieces - a piece of leather that was probably 11-12 oz sandwiched with a piece of heavy canvas. As I recall, it was @3” x 16” and had a swivel snap on the end. I only remember being swatted with it once - after that, if I was crossing the line too far, all he had to do was get the strap off the hook and at the sound of that swivel hardware rattling as it came off the nail, I immediately would stop misbehaving! I would not use this today, but it taught me to respect authority, something many kids today could use some lessons on.
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Ohio Travel Bag has a buckle that looks close to the one in your picture - item C-54-1-2-NP $0.35 each
https://ohiotravelbag.com/products/item/9ffaa5b0-0729-4bec-b869-379b4ff68cb4/C-54-1-2-NP
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There should be some dealers in Chicago and you are not too far from Toledo Sewing in Ohio. Suggest you call Bob at Toledo and see what he has in stock and also check locally. Good luck!
Gary
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7 hours ago, Eddie Q said:
I’ve noticed tha a few times, still learning to use my CB3500. Been looking for info on weather I need a holster needle plate and if it might help prevent that and can’t find much on it..... Appreciate your comments .
I have seen the same happen with my CB4500 when thickness of leather changes (like when sewing over a strap) - usually it’s not that noticeable, but I try to watch for it and adjust stitch length when I can.
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Love the colors and nice job! Only critique is that the stitching seems to change length in a few areas, but otherwise looks great!
Gary
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57 minutes ago, Dun said:
I hope to try giardini in the future, but for now I need something that will work for some pigskin and chrome tan edges. And I'm stuck with this very large bottle of edge flex. So no heat needed for it? (which is good cause I don't have any heating elements)
I never use heat with edge paint. I experimented using a pallet knife heated over an alcohol lamp to see how it would smooth the paint. It did work and does melt the paint, but at the end of the day I saw no value to doing it because the edges look good without heat!
Play around with some scraps and see what works best for you.
Gary
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3 hours ago, Mjolnir said:
Looks neater than my shop when I am not working on anything! I just went out and bought a new shelving unit and plan to move a lot of stuff from my workbench to the shelves. I am embarassed to show anyone how it looks right now!
Gary
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4 hours ago, Forester said:
No won't come out, the retaining strap is fairly tight at the thinner part at the top and the handle gets wider as it goes down, so knife is safe.
Regards Forester
I couldn't tell how much taper there was in the handle - again, nice looking sheath!
Gary
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2 hours ago, Windrider30 said:
Cutting, tooling and stitching took roughly 8 hours the braiding on the other hand took me roughly 5 days to do. So honestly I would say roughly between 50 to 60 hours total The hand stitching was easy the braiding was a pain in the ass but I enjoyed the hell out of it
Always takes longer than you expect! That's why I will never make a living doing leatherwork!
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Just now, Josh Ashman said:
Thanks Gary! I've tried sewing them and running them through 2 slots as well as running them through 1 slot (like this rig) and while they are all OK the 1 slot method is my favorite so far. Works for everything from .22 to .45 as far as I'm concerned.
All the best, Josh
I remember Dwight posted a tutorial on using this method. I am getting ready to make some shotgun shell belt slides and I will definitely look it up and try this method on the first one.
Gary
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Nice looking vest! How many hours do you figure it took you to complete it?
Gary
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in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
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With the amount of tooling you put into this I think it should sell for at least $600-700