Jump to content

garypl

Contributing Member
  • Posts

    1,642
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by garypl

  1. 3 hours ago, Kenl said:

    I can't seem to find a previous post on using 3m spray adhesive on large flat areas of leather and fabric to be glued. Which 3m product is  best the red or green can. Or is there a better product to use. I am wanting to glue liners in bags before sewing. Thanks

    I recently made a laptop bag and used heat sensitive tape to secure the fabric to the leather prior to sewing.  Worked pretty good, but some fabrics may be heat sensitive or too thick to heat sufficiently to hold to the leather without damaging the fabric with the heat.  You can buy the heat tape at Walmart in the sewing section.

    Gary

  2. I don't use the Tandy Edge Flex, but with any edge paint I would sand and burnish the edges, then apply the edge paint.  Let dry, sand lightly and apply a second coat.  Very lightly sand second coat and optionally apply wax or some other type of finish for extra protection.

    I use Giardini Edge paint and I have found it to be extremely durable with no extra finish required.

    Gary

  3. 3 hours ago, fredk said:

     

    An alternative is brass strip from K & S Metal out of Chicago. A lot of hobby shops carry racks of their brass and aluminium in strip, sheet, rods, tubes. It can also be bought directly

    http://www.ksmetals.com/

    I agree with Fredk - most hardware stores around me have racks of steel strips in various thicknesses and lengths.  I bought a chunk of 4 x 12 x 1/4” steel plate for @$15 to use as a stamping surface for my arbor press.  The hardware store had all kinds of steel in smaller sizes for less than what I paid.

    Gary

  4. 5 minutes ago, pdxley said:

    I've ordered from Maverick twice. Both were orders around $100. Their front desk folks were super courteous and transferred me down to the warehouse crew. The first order I placed they were out of the leather I wanted, but the guy spent a few minutes with me to find something else that would work for my project. I was very happy with them. I think you just have to call instead of place the order online. Hopefully they get the online ordering kinks worked out soon. I'd like to be able to see what's available at their MO warehouse. 

    I just looked at the MO inventory they show online and didn’t look like they had a big selection yet.

    Gary

  5. 47 minutes ago, Ed in Tx said:

    Springfield Leather is by far the best supplier I have dealt with. As mentioned they are willing to answer your questions. On the rare occasion when I have had an issue with leather they sent they will make it right without and problems. I have purchased Hermann Oak from them as well as the import veg-tan. Recently I bought some of the import tooling that they have and it was great leather. Right now they have a huge stock of various leather they have show as "the leather disrupter" and the prices are very low. I am placing an order tomorrow for a few pieces in fact.

     

    I never tried SLC before so I just ordered 50 feet of leather from their “disrupters” sale.  Mostly thin lining leather and calfskin.  I am looking forward to checking out the quality.

    Gary

  6. 5 hours ago, Deemer said:

    After reading more about stitching, I think I need to work up some sort of stitching horse, and maybe scour the island again for needles with eyes big enough for heavy thread, but not so large I need something to pull them through the stitch holes. I don't recall a single stitching article mentioning heavy reliance upon vice grips

    Deemer, if you size the holes to the needle and thread you are using you should rarely have to use pliers to pull the needles through the leather.  Sometimes with thicker leather you may need some help pulling the needles at the end when you are finishing stitching by doubling back through your stitch line.

    Best to use your awl to make the stitching slots and give the awl a twist to open the slot a bit - makes more room to push the needles through.  Hammer the stitch line when you finish and the holes should close up around the thread.

    All the best - Gary

  7. 8 minutes ago, Texson said:

    Great job!  This is on my Project List.  In my first design I thought about using a criss-cross bottom - now I know what it looks like.  Thanks!

    Thanks Tex!  I was going to make a solid bottom, but then decided it might be better to have more air circulation at the bottom of the case.  Since I already was using a strap for the carry handles it was simple to add the second strap.

    Gary

  8. 5 minutes ago, Black Dogg said:

    As a bit of an update to an old post, here is the shop as it looks now with the walls done. The boards are 1x6 spruce straight from the sawmill and just lightly sanded on the out-facing side. Brightens things up nicely! The view out the windows is still the same, I just had to take the pictures at night so I wouldn't get all the glare from the sun.

    shopwalls1.jpg.bc8f7a2e4dea25c1f4ad5d73438e95ef.jpgshopwalls2.jpg.194e014184f92baf5eb14f4cd65350c8.jpg

     

    The windows still need trimming, that'll come soon. And yes, Black Dogg Leather the name of my shop!

     

    Black Dogg

    That's a great looking shop!  I love the rustic look of it!

    Gary

  9. 3 hours ago, alpha2 said:

    Some kind of air pressure sprayer. I have a Passche (sp) airbrush, but just about anything like that works. I don't have any trouble spraying 50/50 Resolene/water with mine, even with the small tip. It does require some kind of compressor, though. I just got tired of the bubbles I got with any other kind of application. My problem though, is that I have my compressor in the garage, and usually take the hose and sprayer out onto the deck off the garage to spray, and it's TOO COLD out there now to spray!  The garage isn't heated, either, so that doesn't help.

    You do get a nice, light even coat though. The upside is, you use a LOT less Resolene, and a LOT less dye when spraying dye.

    I agree with alpha - I use a cheapo airbrush and compressor from Harbor Freight to spray dyes and resolene.  I think the compressor was $50 and airbrush was $8.  I put a large disposable aluminum turkey pan in front of a box fan with a couple of furnace filters in front of it and spray away.  I do this in the basement workshop - would probably not get nice looks from the wife if I tried it in the main part of the house.  Most of my projects are smaller, so generates very little odor and furnace filters capture most of the overspray.  I use much less dye and resolene that I use when applying it with a brush or sheepskin.

    Gary

  10. Hey Deemer, thanks for posting your first project!  I like the concept and as others have already commented, with practice your stitching will become more uniform.  The key is consistency - holding your chisels straight, sewing sequence, etc.  If you have a very sharp chisel or knife you can try cutting a 45 degree bevel by holding the leather on the edge of a table and carefully cut the bevel with the chisel or knife.

    Welcome to the forum!

    Gary

  11. 45 minutes ago, alpha2 said:

    Ordered my 4500 from Cowboy Bob today. Can't wait to have these issues! Hand-stitching holsters/sheaths/belts is killing my arthritic hands. Machines might be more involved, but have to less painful!

    Congratulations Alpha!  I bought. CB4500 from Bob about 8 months ago and after a learning cycle I feel very comfortable using it.  It does a great job on most of my projects, but I am thinking of getting a lighter weight machine for very thin leather.  I am sure you will enjoy sewing with your new machine.  What used to take me hours to sew I can now sew in minutes!

    Gary

×
×
  • Create New...