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garypl

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Posts posted by garypl

  1. I have a 4 x 8 foot work table.  One corner covered with cutting mats with a 4 ft straightedge attached to the edge to cut long straight pieces of leather. (Leather slips under the straightedge and is clamped to hold it securely while cutting.)

    Another corner setup with airbrush and fan/filter for spraying dye and finishes.

    Third corner has granite block covered with brown paper - stamping and tooling is done here along with gluing, edge painting, dyeing small pieces and coloring leather.  Brown paper makes drips easy to clean up, I just replace the paper when it gets nasty.

    4th corner has bench vise and arbor press for stamping and setting rivets, grommets etc.   (vise is not normally used for leather, I used to do a lot of woodworking and a vise always comes in handy for holding things.)

    4 x 8 ft shelf under the workbench holds plastic storage bins with hardware, threads, tools, dyes, and any other stuff that I don’t use every day.

    Sewing machine in another room - keeps it away from dust and dirt.  Also have a large table to layout leather to mark for cutting.  More often than not, I layout large hides on my pool table - it’s the largest flat area available to work on other than the floor, and my back and knees don’t like working on the floor anymore!

    Gary

  2. 9 minutes ago, geargarcon said:

    Can someone tell me why one would make a briefcase/satchel where the back and top closure portions are made out of separate pieces of leather instead of one continuous piece?

    Is this just to allow the designer to pick the cleanest pieces of leather and add some interesting stitching detail, or does it serve a structural purpose?

     

    FA2DD739-9766-436A-A008-60F9C46EB468.jpeg

    I can’t think of any reason other than what you stated - use of leather and design element.  Possibly use thinner leather to make the cover flap more flexible.

    Gary

  3. 2 hours ago, georgiapine85 said:

    Here's the latest rifle sling I finished this evening for a buddy of mine. I used Eco flo super sheen for the resist and Eco Flo med. brown antique gel over that. Buffed it good and topped it off with a couple of good coats of Aussie using a hair dryer to get it to penetrate better, then I buffed it again.  The buck came from an old hunting book cover that was my grandfathers.WP_20180106_18_59_19_Pro.thumb.jpg.5fdb25e695375cefa5d5b7c84d7da193.jpg

    That’s a fine looking sling!  Nice job.  Did you paint the carvings and letters or is that the natural color?

  4. 24 minutes ago, Gregsleather said:

    Hey Gary.  Yes I wet formed them with a dowel glued down to a block.  Only using 3-4 oz and they seem a bit light weight but they seem to be holding shape well.  I just rasped the end of the dowel to try and give me a good rounded end but didn't do a very good job.  If I make any more I will try to make a better form with the dowel so I have a nicer shape at the bottom.  Right now trying to make a form for a med size possible pouch/purse and trying to finish up my wife's purse.  Just waiting on the clasp.

    Thank you.

    Thank you.

    Thank you.

    Greg - I think the bottom end looks great!  If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

    Gary

  5. When you sharpen a V gouge, you must remove the small burr that forms on the inside of the V.  If you are only sharpening the outside, the small burr that forms on the inside will prevent a clean cut.  You can use an appropriately sized whetstone, very fine sandpaper, shaped leather strop, and probably other ways to remove the burr.  I have ruined V gouges trying to sharpen them - it takes some practice!

    Gary

  6. 8 hours ago, superpacker said:

    To report, wetting the Leather made the creaser work so well!

    That’s good to hear!  I use a Tandy creaser and had to polish the ends to get them nice and smooth so they didn’t scratch the leather.  Heating the tip with either an alcohol burner or my heat gun also produces a nice burnishing effect in the crease.

  7. 1 hour ago, Yetibelle said:

    I struggled with this question for a few years and went with the CB4500.  Just like you I have a Singer 111w155 that is similar to the Sailrite and it can cover the smaller weight leathers and canvas, but I wanted a machine that could do more.  I run 346 thread in it and it doesn't flinch on a single stitch it runs so smooth I wish I had 2 of them.  I feel if I had gone with the CB3200 with the shorter arm and less clearance I would have wished I got the CB4500.  Plus with @Uwe flat-bed table it converts into an exceptional flat bed machine and I see my Singer 7-31 gathering dust.  So I would recommend getting the base CB4500 with Uwe's custom flat-bed.  I know it seams like a lot more money, however these machines last 100 plus years so it is worth the money.

     

    UWE_table.jpg.23dead9c66cb49969824fa89ca782704.jpg

     

    That's a nice looking table - how does it attach to the machine?  Do yu remove the standard plate from the cylinder and use what looks to be a built-in plate in the new table?

    Gary

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