Colt W Knight

I have some new Cs Osborne punches, and they are better than Tandy punches. However, they aren't holding up as well as the older punches.

Thanks yall. Im not actually a sports person, so I wouldn't ever want a team themed anything. However, I couldn't think of any other colors for a Broncos bad. However, I do like bright colors, especially leather in bright colors. Reminds me of all those amazing rodeo chaps I have seen. The turquoise one is deer hide, and the suede side was so much prettier than the outside, I had to show it off. I never thought turquoise would have been the color that most women ask me for.

I prefer to use either a groove or a crease, I just think it looks better. Some projects, I do not use a groove, like the outside part of a purse strap.

My thoughts as well for A an E.

Thickness of the leather makes a difference as well. I generally just use a 1" oblong punch unless the belt is extra thick, then I like a 1.25 or 1.5" punch.

The process is extremely useful on saddle stirrups. If the leather isn't pretty stretched, the left stirrup ends up being a lot longer than the rightraditional pretty quickly. Sometimes, if I am tooling an item the is being stitched together in a complex pattern, I stretch the leather from the back with a glass slicker so I can cut it to the proper size and it won't stretch out from tooling. Belts made from vegtan leather can stretch a lot, several inches when wet. And as it stretches, tooling looses definition.

There are some upholstery products designed to do what you are talking about, but I do not know what they are called.

Very nice work

Broncos purse Valentines day present for someone [

that sucks. I wouldn't think a reverse switch would be so hard to incorporate.

I have a Consew 206 rb-1 and it is a fantastic machine. It would be a great flatbed machine for the weight and size thread you listed. The 227 is basically the same machine but a cylinder arm. If you intend to sew things like purses and bags a lot, the cylinder arm is by far more versatile. If you are doing flat stuff, the flatbed would work great. If I were to buy another machine like mine, I would make sure to buy one that had a reverse switch that locked into position ( I believe the rb-5s do). Mine is a lever that has to be held up while sewing in reverse which leaves you with one less hand.

On my leather working tool strops I use automotive rubbing compounds because that's what I have on hand from building guitars and finishing with lacquer. Sharpening isn't a big deal once you get your consistency down on your technique. One wrong swipe can erase 50 good strokes.

I grew up using a double sided Norton sharpening stone with incredible success. Then my dad gave me an burned out ceramic light bulb from a huge light on a dragline. After sharpening with the Norton stone, I could polish up the edge using that light bulb like a steel and my knives became sharper than I've ever experienced. These days I have an expensive set of DMT diasharp diamond stone from extra coarse to extra fine. These are excellent sharpening devices, but the greatest advantage to me is I use them to level and dress guitar frets. They make quick work of that. I think my greatest evolution in sharpening came when my uncle explained how the metal of the edge tip looked microscopically. Sharpening creates a super thin sliver or feather of metal at the point. Stropping keeps that feather straight and as you use the edge it begins to roll over and makes the edge dull. If you frequently dress that edge with a steel or strop, you can keep the edge sharp longer without a need to reshapen on a stone. Ideally, you can sharpen that feather into the edge and polish it away for the most superior cutting edge.

Clean the leather with saddle soap prior to dying. The natural oils from your hands and stuff from the tanning process leaves the leather greasy and the alcohol from the dye pools all that grease on the surface. I clean my leather with saddle soap during the casing process. Cleans the leather and keeps it nice and supple

Yeah, you can get the total package from Toledo as well. They are both 2795.00 Ferdcos were super well thought of in the 90s, and I believe they were made with actually Juki parts back then. I don't know if they still are or not. I think the company who made them back then went under, and the brand was brought back again by another company. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/images/Cowboy_cb4500_mag_ad.jpg

Ive tried a few products with varying results, I will be interested to see what everyone says in this thread.

You can learn a lot by buying a few Al Stohlman books and getting after it.

Looks like Angelus or another high quality acrylic paint. I can only think of two ways that two tone was done. 1. paint the low spots and wipe away excess on the high spots with a wet sponge or cloth, then paint the letters. 2. That cat is real good with a paint brush.

very nice

I went in there once. It was basically just a quilting shop catering to old ladies and vacuum repair. 700$ over retail sounds like highway robbery. I asked them about a leather sewing machine, and they quotes me an outrageous price for that too.

I get something similar by applying a thin coat of Fiebings mohogany and following with ecoflow saddle tan gel antique. Colors on leather are tough because all hides take dye differently, and don't discount colors seen in pictures appear different than real life. Really like using mohogany dye because I like that reddish color it has.

extra virgin olive oil wont. I have used it for nearly 20 years on horse tack, but other types of olive oil will and most vegetables oils will.

You should post this in the leather sewing machine part of the forum, there are a few guys over there that will answer this question pretty quickly.

Bob has been really good to me and helping me with motors, needles, and thread. I am going to buy a big 441 machine from him when I get settled into my new workshop.