Colt W Knight

I have used an MDF template and router with a guide bearing before. Makes a lot of shavings, but works well if you support the work.

Thanks Rick.

Just finished building this guitar, and decided to do a little coaxing and make a strap for it. 5/6 veg tan, lined with red garment leather and a sheep shearling pad. The top is airbrushed with Angelus leather paint ( this stuff is amazing by the way). Once I got it made, the blazingly bright cherry red looked off, so I gave it a coat of black antique and rubbed it a little. I think it looks better now. The black and bright red was just too contrasty and clean.

I think you'd need an airbrush to put it on thin enough it doesn't bleed through

An inexpensive flatbed attachment will turn the cylinder arm into a flat bed machine, and you can take it off for those hard to reach places. I made all of these on my consew 206. If I were buying a brand new machine, I would certainly buy a cylinder arm machine. I bought mine used for a good deal, so I can live with the struggle.

On your bobbin winder - I had the same problem - Take a flat head screw driver and wedge it into the slot in the peg to spread it out some.

My hands ache looking at all that lacing. Nice job

None of my Cs Osborne punches came anywhere near sharp enough. I had to sharpen and polish every single one. My weaver Master tool stuff came plenty sharp to use and the edges were beveled much more consistent than the CS Osborne stuff Once they are sharpened properly , you really can just push them through the leather with a little hand pressure, twisting, or rocking motion. My tandy punches started falling apart once I started resharpening them. I think they heat treat or harden the very end, and once you polish/sharpen that area away, you get into super soft steel that doesn't hold up that well.

Looks like you still have more adjustment on the motor to move that pulley closer to see if the belt you have would fit.

If I'm hand stitching, I get it as close as possible. With a machine I make sure to leave a little extra so I can trim.

If it's pulling the thread through to the top after playing the tension the hole is probably too big. If you have to crank the tension down or can't pull the knot up through the leather, a bigger hole will help.

I wouldn't want anything longer than 5 on a bag.in my opinion, you need big thread to make long stitches look right.

Flatbed machine

When I have this issue, I drop a needle size

The consew 206 rb5 is an excellent machine with lots of accessories and parts available. I use mine to sew up to 3/8" veg tan leather and I also use it to make leather purses and canvas bags. However, it is a flat bed machine, so you are limited on construction and sewing larger complex items is difficult. I think you would be happier with a cylinder arm walking foot machine. I believe the Consews 227 is the cylinder arm equivalent. That cylinder arm gives you more freedom to sew bags and coats, and vests.

The link I provided is actually a used machine being sold by one of the leatherworker.net forum vendors.

Glad yall told me about the 3-1 oil

I think you will want a cylinder arm walking foot machine like this consew 227 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/161772125923?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82 I have the flat bed version of this machine and it performs great, but I wish it was a cylinder arm to make sewing bags and things much easier. Your 1500$ is close to the cost of a new "clone" machine, and you should be able to a solid used machine for 800-1200$ if you look hard and long enough. Common leather clone machines are Cowboy, Techsew, and Cobra.

I put one on my Consew 206, makes sewing super easy because of the speed control, plus its much quieter than that old clunker of a clutch motor. Seriously, the clutch motor on mine weighed a good 50-60 lbs. https://youtu.be/t9y5RoogvYo

Talked to Bob on the phone one afternoon, and he mailed it the next morning. I think it took 2-3 days to get here. I've ordered from Bob 3-4 times and never had any issues.

I bought mine from Toledo Industrial Sewing machines, and it has ran like a top for over a year now. This is the first time I have seen a complaint about the motor, but hearing Made in China electronics suddenly broke doesn't surprise me much.

waka waka!

All the leather is from Hide House Most of it is deer.

I would think water based dyes wouldn't work as well on latigo because it is impregnated with oils.

As Mla pointed out, its probably the lacquer solvents causing you trouble. two things that may help 1. give the previous coats more time to dry and cure 2. spray thinner coats. Lacquer doesn't do well if its sprayed on heavier.