Colt W Knight

You will find a mixed bag with guitarist on guitar straps when it comes to buckles and conchos. There are folks who won't want anything metal near their prized guitar, guys who don't give a shit if their axe gets scratched, and folks who wont ever think about it. When I first started making these guitar straps, I got a few scathing PMs from folks on this forum begging me to reconsider my design because guitarist wouldn't stand for the possibility of their guitar being scratched by my guitar straps. I build custom guitars, and I know a few Nashville session guitarist and a few famous cats who play guitar. Not one of them has ever said to me that they didn't want or like the buckles and some of the straps I have made sit on guitars worth A LOT of money. I try to keep the heavy part of the buckle above the main strap, folks who aren't into the western belt buckles, I use a leather keeper, no end piece, and plain buckle like you would find on a horse bridle. Realistically, if you have them measure the strap length correctly, the buckles and adjustments are just for looks. A lot of those big gawdy over the top guitar straps from the 70s and 80s had buckle sets that were nonfunctional. Yes, I do use an airbrush whenever I can. Makes quick/clean work of most finishing tasks. Plus, avoiding alcohol based dyes on guitar straps keeps the leather supple and not stiff. ANGELUS leather paint is the best Ive found to date. Some straps I have to hand paint because I am not that good with an airbrush

Care to elaborate?

Yeah, I had to make two passes in areas with the utility knife to cut this. This was my first Herman Oak side, and I was stoked to work with quality leather. Then the hide turns out to be a POS. Not happy with HO so far.

Eddie Van Halen, use to make/assemble his own guitars from cheap parts from the 2nds stack. He used eye screws instead of strap buttons, and put snaps on his guitar straps. Now its part of his performance schtick, even though guitar manufacturers make his guitars for him now, but they all try to include the vibe of his original frankestein guitars. I do not like slot adjust, so I quit making them.

This one is for my niece The next two are a little different Eddie Van Halen strap The letters glow in the dark, and the strap looks slick under black light on stage. Then a Christian Heavy metal rock strap. He has a guitar a very similar color

Thanks

The brown and black are Fiebings usmc black and mohoghany. The colors are Angelus acrylic paint, Bright Red, Electric Blue, and Copper metallic. The flake of the copper doesn't show in the picture, but it looks nice in person.

I have a few cheap air brushes, but the IWATA airbrush I have is by far the superior tool. Better spray, easier to clean, and easier to use. It was expensive though. My finishes have drastically improved since I started using an airbrush. Technically, you should filter everything that you spray. Can you get by without doing it, yes you can, but small particles can build up and prematurely clog your tip or cause the brush to sputter and drip. I have a reusable filter cup from Angelus that i use for all my paint. I don't generally filter alcohol based dyes.

I had to beat the $#!+ out of this leather to bevel the edges, and I still didn't get deep impressions like I would have liked.

A consew 206rb would be great for canvas. I

I used a side of Herman Oak to make this, and I was not very happy with the quality of this leather. It was super hard, and the sewing machine had a hard time with it, I had a hard time with it, and it did not take dye very well.

Where is Loganville?

I don't think you have the tensions set right on your machine. I see a lot of knots pulling to the top, and a lot of loose top threads. Even if the machine is set correctly, and you go pulling on thread ends that are not lock stitched in, they will the knots loose.

I have that same knife that my great grand dad left me when he died. I almost lost it when the sheath rotted and it fell out in the woods. A four year old kid found it.

I think if you are doing the same shape over and over again, a clicker press and clicker dies are the way to go for sure. If you are doing one off stuff, and have a band saw, you can buy a razor edge blade for the band saw. Those big bumps on the croc make it tough to cut precise. What kind of laser do you have biglew? I have been interested in getting one to cut/engrave some things.

Is your machine gray? Does it have lever reverse with the stitch length built in or a knob? The 206 rb-1s were made in Japan and the newer models are made in China.

I thought a 227 was just a 206, but with a cylinder arm instead of flat bed. If you are serious about wanting to make bags and things, I think you would be better off buying a cylinder arm machine unless you could find something used much cheaper. You seam to be on the higher end of used machines where you are. There are definitely parts of the country where finding a used leather machine is difficult and the prices are much higher. I searched classifieds for almost a year before I bought my 206 for 400$

With table and clutch motor, I bet that 206 will weigh 250-300 lbs. They are heavy duty, and parts and accessories are readily available. If you do get that machine, I would recommend a family sew 550 servo motor.

I have a consew 206rb-1 and it's a great machine, but it will only sew 3/8" thick material and uses #138 thread. I've read it can sew #207 thread, but I haven't been able to get mine to sew 207.

Fs550 works great on my consew 206

Im too impatient to drown the thing in kerosine for extended periods of time. I would just blast it with some none damaging media like crushed walnut hulls.

ELECTRIC BLUE!

My 206 is a killer machine, and its a206 rb-1, so its been working hard for decades.

Al my CS Osborne hole punches have different diameter shanks.