Colt W Knight

Use the Macro function on your camera, almost always looks like a little rose or flower.

I wish my machine sewed that thick. I am sure the folks who work with those big machines can help you reduce the marks, but I don't think anything will sew that much leather and leave no marks at all. The teeth were ground off my smaller machine, and it still leaves some marks.

I gave up buying local, and I order everything from Hide House in Napa, CA now. They have good prices on leather, wide selection, sell to me wholesale, and don't gouge on shipping like almost all the online leather dealers.

The water looks taller than the land. I think you need to bevel the other direction to give the perspective a feel that the water is lower. Some texture on the water would help differentiate it as well.

I don't like to go heavy on book covers because heavier weight leather will rip the book binding apart. I like about 5 ounce stuff.

I send people detailed instructions and pictures, and some of them still manage to **** up the measurement.

That is what the gals up at the extension office dubbed her. The department got a kick out of her at my seminar presentation.

You should send it to me, I can use it for the cattle GPS collars I make. Cows don't complain about cosmetic stuff.

Im not real sure why you would sand before beveling edges, or why you would need to sand inbetween burnishing. You do need a certain quality of leather to get good burnished edges. Some leather just wont burnish worth a darn.

I seem to be getting rounder as I age. Not wrinkly.

Those are slick

A machine that is good for thick material like holsters is probably not going to work real well on wallet.

I had the same thing happen to me, I bought an old Singer. I never could get consistent stitches with it. Ended up buying a real walking foot machine.

Back when I was looking for a walking foot machine that would sew leather, used machines were nearly the cost of new machines in Arizona. I got lucky and found a consew 206 for $400, and I was tickled pink. I hadn't seen one for less than 800$ the entire time I was looking. Nearly a year.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-sheets/=z64au8 You can order custom polyethylene sheets from McMaster-carr whatever thickness and length/width you need without paying a middle man too.

I have never used chrome vegtan leather, so I am affraid I can't help with that. Dye - penetrates deep into the leather and gives a deep rich color stain - sits on top of the leather and the color isn't as rich and full in my opinion Acrylic paints are used to give solid(opaque) colors Antiques - just fill crevices or low spots with dark color. I don't think any of those edges are painted - at most they are dyed or stained To prevent colors from bleeding or rubbing off on to skin, you need to apply a clear coat. Products like resolene, super sheen, tan kote all work for that. Oil - used to preserve the leather or make it softer/more supple. I put it on before I apply finishes, and let it sit overnight so that it soaks evenly through the leather. Just a few light coats. You don't want to soak the leather with oil. Leather straight from the tannery - colors will bleed when they get wet. I do not know what brand of pens are available in your country. I buy my stuff from local office supply stores/art stores. They specifically say on the packaging that they are fade and UV resistant. Both red weldwood ( original and gel) work great. The gel is not as messy to apply, in my opinion. It doesn't string out like hot cheese. The green can is water based, and I don't like it. Once the glues are dry, I can't forsee any problems. Picture one might also be burnt with a heat gun to get that color too, but you can accomplish it with an air brush.

When I finish my doctorate and I get a permenant shop set up, I am going to invest in a clicker press.

http://www.retailmenot.com/view/harborfreight.com?c=7230762 Here are some 20% coupons if you don't already have one.

1300$ is what a regular size Consew 206 costs new, so in good shape that long arm should be worth that. Is that machine made in Japan or China? My japanese 206 is gray, but the newer chinese machines are white.

1. Looks like the finish was put on with an airbrush to look "splotchy" like that. Then a light clear coat was applied. Once it was dry, bent backwards to get those wrinkles. Edges aren't finished, probably just died dark brown. 2. The edges in your pictures do not look finished - at most they are just dyed a darker color 3. I have never used chrome veg tanned leathers, so I can't offer any insight. 4. You need a fade resistant / UV protected felt tip marker - a regular Sharpie brand marker is not UV resistant and if exposed to sunlight or UV light over time will fade. 5. You can case that leather like tooling leather, you can use a stitch groover with a smooth blade or something with an edge guide to put that line on. 6. Ive had less than satisfactory results with waterbased contact cement, so I use Weldwood original formula contact cement on bigger projects and 3M super 77 spray adhesive for smaller projects.

I had to go to a number 25 round point needle to sew #138 top and bottom.

Are those big enought to sew holster welts?

I absolutely hate hand stitching, so I would go with the Tippman Boss. I think most of the machines you can find that already have a treadle and can sew leather would not come close to sewing a holster, and retrofitting an industrial leather machine to a treadle would probably work fine but be uneconomical.