Colt W Knight

My service has a pot, and I can select anywhere on the dial, and it does that click into place. The slowest setting my machine will sew is between the 350 and 660 hash marks on the dial. It has the pulley that came with motor. If I set mine on 660, it sees pretty fast, but I can feather the pedal and make it walk slowly.

Not to mention they suck!

Thats what I use.

My weaver oblong punch has a square handle, not round. Due to the nature of how these tools are manufactured, sanded, and polished, I would imagine there is tremendous variation among tools of the same brand.

+1

With he belt on, mine stops.

It would dry eventually, just take longer. Id be more worried about the top coat making it run or smear if it weren't dry enough

Is this a new spool of thread, or have you been sewing with this thread? Has the thread been sitting in the light for a while?

I just checked ebay, and the only ones I saw were craftool stamps that are available Tandy.

I topcoat as soon as its dry to the touch.

Are there any readily available alphabet stamps that are a different font than the same 2-3 you see sold at Tandy?

Antique paste is just to add contrast to your tooling. It builds up in the low spots making them darker. The paste hides some cut marks, smooths out the appearance, and adds contrast (shadowing effect) to work. It is not meant to be a stand alone finish. You apply a lighter coat of dye/stain to the tooled leather. Seal it so the anitique paste does not discolor the previous dye/stain, and then rub the paste(a darker color) into the low spots, and wipe off the excess.

I'm no expert, but seams like you need to tighten your bobbin tension or use a smaller size needle.

No experience with the other machines, but the consew 206 will sew through canvas and cordura like butter. There was a long thread not long ago about the other consew and being able to oil at slow speeds. Folks with experience with the machine said sewing slow wasn't an issue.

I'm a fan of maple on a tele

3M 77 spray glue. I use an iron, the rubbing aND the heat create a much stronger bond between the leather and the fabric

I think you need to thin it some more, adjust your airbrush some, and filter it. My airbrushed always run better if I filter the media. The hf airbrushed aren't that great to start with, and I find myself taking the tip off and cleaning the needle frequently during use. If the media is thin, and loosen the needle and push it in and out a few times to clear the clog.

In the past, I've bought plain melamine sheets and high pressure laminate sheets from home depot, but I haven't looked in a few years.

You can also buy bake lite sheets from McMaster-Carr sold as Garokite and make your own plywood laminate. Those laminated table tops are great though. I use them for my router tables.

Same strap, different ends. Very comfy with the soft leather, shearling pad, and tapered ends. Thanks, they vary a lot because I take custom orders typically around 1500$

The conbra is more like an upholstery or purse/garment ma chine while the cowboy 3200 is more like a small saddle/holster machine.

Thanks yall. I've really been liking those silver letter initials lately. I think they are pretty classy, and relatively cheap. Even though I put the buckles and silver initials on this strap, I wanted to avoid a western tooling look.

I have used an MDF template and router with a guide bearing before. Makes a lot of shavings, but works well if you support the work.

Thanks Rick.

Just finished building this guitar, and decided to do a little coaxing and make a strap for it. 5/6 veg tan, lined with red garment leather and a sheep shearling pad. The top is airbrushed with Angelus leather paint ( this stuff is amazing by the way). Once I got it made, the blazingly bright cherry red looked off, so I gave it a coat of black antique and rubbed it a little. I think it looks better now. The black and bright red was just too contrasty and clean.