Colt W Knight
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Everything posted by Colt W Knight
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What Kind Of Cord Should I Fill My Bag Handles With?
Colt W Knight replied to Blucher's topic in How Do I Do That?
You can buy O-ring stock by the foot from McMaster-carr in just about any size, shape, and firmness/squishiness you want. http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=z1lbsn -
Your leaning your beveler just ever so slightly, and that is why you are getting those choppy edge bevels. That is something is really hard for me to get right, but it makes your tooling look so much better when its smooth.
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Just finished this up for my mother's birthday. Turquois - Hide House garment split seude Black - hide house deer tooling- hide house double shoulder premium grade cloth - joann fabric hardware - tandy
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I got this one from Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial sewing supply for ~5$. The swing up/down required me to drill and tap my machine plus the guide was almost 100$ The swing down is nice because you can flip it up and its completely out of the. The swing away thats mounted to the bottom is still in the way if you need to use the whole bottom if you are sewing something big. Anything sticking up on the bed of the sewing machine will create a drag point, and when your leather catches that it will FUBAR the stitches everytime ( at least for me it does).
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I have made 4-5 bags/purses, and I use #138 thread and a #22 needle on my consew 206. 138 might be a bit big unless you want to really see the stitches. I am thinking abou moving to size 92 for future bags.
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Burnishing Messes Up My Straight Lines.
Colt W Knight replied to Cassian's topic in How Do I Do That?
Yeah, I just go straight to beeswax on thin leather. -
Modern steels are far and away better than old Japanese swords. In fact, swordsmiths had to do all that "mystic" forging and folding to make up for the fact they were using such poor quality steel. Japanese swords were much thicker than european swords. I'm not saying they are bad artistically or functionally, but they are not on par with modern steel. Equally if not better swords were being made in Europe during the hay day of samurai swords. But ninjas and samurai are cool, so they get a lot of voodoo points. I sharpen my tools with either a Norton stone or my diasharp stones. Then I keep them sharp with my steel or strop. When stripping doesn't get my swivel knife sharp anymore, I hit it on some 1500 grit wet sand paper. That way I don't have to drag my stones out.
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Burnishing Messes Up My Straight Lines.
Colt W Knight replied to Cassian's topic in How Do I Do That?
How much of the edge are you wetting? What thickness of leather? I've only had this problem burnishing thin leather, and adding to much water/soap exacerbates the issue. -
There is blasting media that is soft, like crushed walnut hulls so that you can remove rust or paint without hurting the metal substrate. But I would try soaking in something like the Evaporust first.
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Cattle were domesticated over 10,000 years ago, so I would say we have been doing a good with sustainability.
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Pretty cool read about historic tooling of leather http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/leather/leather.pdf Here is an example of "tooling" like we use today from the 8th century where lines were cut and beveled. http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/leather/leather.pdf The article states early stamping tools were carved intricately into wood, and didn't last very long.
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I use spirit dyes to get my base colors, then apply a couple light coats of clear/resist to protect the color. Then I add water based antique to highlight all the tooling marks. Once it's dried, I put on a seal coat of clear. Works great for me. If you don't put resist/clear overy the dye the antique will change the overall color(almost always makes it darker) I do the same thing when I paint my tooling with acrylic colors. The antique just settles in the tooling marks, and wipes away from top highlighting all the tooling and making the colors look more artistic and less monotone.
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There was a NIB one for sale on the classifieds if you are in Ohio. 1200$ I think.
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Thanks yall
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Bob Kovar at Toledo (Cowboy sewing machines) has been great to deal with.
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I've used prevails before, an airbrush, even a hf cheapie, is way better in my honest opinion.
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I recently sharpened my Tandy hole punches, and they fell apart quickly after sharpening. The higher end tandy punches had a very small insert or press fit hardened end, and sharpening them removed most of it. They started splitting and chipping shortly there after.
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My pieces have yet to move and my airbrush is 25 psi
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I use a syringe and a 2 inch needle. Best way I have found so far.
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That is a beautiful piece.
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Upgrade Advice From Consew 225 To 206 Rb-5
Colt W Knight replied to Cebwrd's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Well the 206rb-5 has Reverse Big bobbin Dial to adjust stitches Will sew up to 3/8" Will sew up to 207 thread My consew 206 will sew 4.33 spI at it's largest -
The head guy at M. L. Leddy boots told me stingray was a PITA for them because stingray broke needles.
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Yeah, its got an added pedal for the reverse. It works just fine. I would rather have a machine that had lever you could just flip for forward and reverse.
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