Colt W Knight

Here would be my concern. Yes, I am certain you can break all the moving parts free and get it to run. If all the BLO isn't removed, overtime it will collect dirt and grime, and turn into a tar like substance. The constant reoiling sewing machines require will keep that BLO gunky forever if it isn't all removed. If you use it and let it set, I bet it would keep freezing up after it sits.

Was it raw or boiled linseed oil? Boiled linseed oil is used in paints and varnishes. They have drying compounds to make it dry quicker and harder. Raw linseed oil is just the oil pressed from flax seed and takes weeks to dry. You could very well clean it up with some mineral spirits or something, but I wouldn't get close to it unless it was really cheap.

R means reverse and B means big bobbin I believe on consew. I don't know about the other letters The numbers after the dashes are the next generation model numbers. Sometimes they have upgraded features, changed features or just manufactures in a different place.

I have that same knife and I need to make a sheet for it. Looking good, edges are great.

+1

I would just buy a cheap pair at walmart or check the thrift stores.

You can run both stitches through the back and tie it.

I thought they did that to make sliding the holster onto the belt easier.

I know which video you are referring, and the method works great for making toys, but if you wanted good replica for holster making, you would have to make a ton of layers to make the casting good enough for wet molding a holster. You can buy exact replicas from plastic from places like Blue Guns who used real firearms to create their molds. http://www.blueguns.com/default.asp? Here is a blue gun for sale that is a replica of the model 92 Beretta, similar to the one in the DIY aluminum casting video http://www.midwayusa.com/product/812671/blueguns-firearm-simulator-beretta-92f-polyurethane-blue?cm_vc=subv812671

You can buy most sheet stock rubbers from McMaster-Carr much cheaper than ordering from specialty stores. McMaster is a supplier or hardware and raw materials for construction and fabrication. They are great resource for a lot of items. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rubber-sheets/=yaqgmp

With my hand tremors, edge finishing is the bane of my existence. If anyone finds a tool that actually works, Ill buy one as well.

They have brushes, and they come with extra brushes Try this link I don't think I waited long enough after uploading before I tried to copy the link, so it just copied the list page link maybe.

Here is a quick cell phone video I did on mine. You can see how fine the dial adjustment works. These were pedal to the metal, speed changes were all dial based. This was fairly hard leather, so it couldn't slow it down as much as I could on fresher leather.

I have one. The dial works great, I can quickly turn my speed up to wind bobbins, and down to sew intricate projects. When I sew long things like belts and guitar straps, I put it on a middle of the road speed, and I can feather the foot pedal to sew slow at first and around corners, or go full speed when I go down the long straight stretch. It is quit, and doesn't weigh very much.

The J roller is handy because it will do any length or shape. If the piece is small, clamps and setting stuff on top works just fine.

A "J roller" is like a rolling pin with a handle that is used to mate two pieces together that have been contact cemented. They are very common for folks who apply laminate and veneers. If you read the directions on the can of my contact cement, it will give you a recommendation of how much pressure needs to be applied to get maximum adherence. For Example, the direction from Weldwood Once surfaces are joined, 25 lbs. per square inch of pressure should be applied evenly to surface starting in the center and working out tot he edges. ON a firm surface, use a 3 inch j roller and roll the entire surface . http://www.rockler.com/j-roller-for-veneering?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V9146&gclid=CLKYx875g8cCFQoPaQodkT8JiA

You brush 1 or two coats of quality contact cement on both pieces of leather and let it set till its tacky to the touch. Then you press the two together, and use something like a J roller to apply pressure to the entire piece to get good contact. In some cases, placing a weight on the work and letting the glue dry for a day can really make them into one piece of leather. Make one or both pieces of leather oversize, then you can trim it after being glued. That will eliminate the edge glue, or you can sand the edges.

One of the nicer wallets I have seen on here

Very nice. Your letters are great. I need to get back to wood shed apparently.

Thanks guys, I tried to buy something for my machine from that website last year, and I had an awful time communicating with them. They didn't understand what I wanted, and asked me to send them pictures of my machine and the guide attachment I was wanting. After that, I wasn't real sure I should order from them or not. I don't know much about sewing machines, and I know less about sewing machine attachments. Do you know any sources for ready made leather binding? I guess I should source my materials first, then try to find a binder that fits. I don't think I am setup to cut long strips of soft leather accurately enough to make my own, I was hoping to just buy it ready made. Regards, Colt

Is there such a thing as a leather binding foot for a Consew 206rb-1? Something similar to a tape binder? My mother asked me to make her some things, and she posted them on facebook. Since then I have received a tong of requests.

This is exactly what I do if I run out of thread, skip a stitch, or have something happen like thread fraying or a needle breaking. I use a a Consew 206, but I don't think the type of machine makes any difference.

My roller guide has up and down play in it, so I can set it on the feed dog and touching the center foot. The roller just rides up and down on the feed dog. I'll check to see how close I can get my stitches to the edge.

I change mine before every big project, and about every 4-5 little projects. As someone pointed out above, they are a relatively cheap expense in the expensive world of leather working. When I first started sewing, I would go too long between needle changes, and things would always go wrong like: frayed thread, skipped stitches, and these things lead to other problems like the feed dog hanging up the thread and changing your stitch length or pulling your work from the center line or just plain breaking the needle.

I dunk my leather in water and give it a rinse. Then I clean it with saddle soap. Then I let it sit out for while for the casing process. On some projects, I use a glass slicker to kinda prestretch and give the leather a smoother appearence. The rinsing and cleaning seem to be more important when I use cheaper leather like the stuff I get at Tandy because it seems to be pretty nasty.