Colt W Knight

Is there a tool or applicator that allows those of us with hand tremors to cleanly and neatly apply Fiebing edge coat? Occasionally, I do projects where simply burnishing the edges are not practical, and I have given up trying to use dye on an edge where I have chrome tan and veg tan glued together.

My parents recently visited me in Tucson, and while here, my Dad bought a pistol. I told him if he bought the leather, I would make him a belt and holster for it. While we were at the leather store, I noticed my mom was gathering an arm load of stuff. She laid it on the counter and said, wouldn't that make a nice purse. I said, I bet it would. So... I guess I am making a purse now. I have no idea how to make purses. I don't know anything about purses. I thought about it for a while before I made a mock up out of vinyl. Mom bought some very expensive red leather I didn't want to ruin.

I sew 92 and138 thread in my consew206, but I've never tried 69.

Your stuff is great

With a leather sewing machine you would use either bonded nylon or polyester thread which is lightly lubricated to feed through the machine without getting hot causing the thread to break.

+1, That looks like a killer machine.

I don't think those edges are finished either. Just cut flushhhhh

Ive always cleaned mold off horse tack with Murphys Oil, water, and brush. I had to do this a lot in West Virginia when we ran a boarding stable. Once a year, typically.

SCORE! Ive actually been able to pay for my leather hobby by selling guitar straps and padfolios, but I am certainly not making money. I want a big 441 machine, but I had to settle for a Consew 206 when my truck broke down.

I would install the pulleys, and adjust the motor so that it sits in the middle of its adjustment. Then run a string around the pulleys to get the belt size. You can order any belt you need from McMaster-Carr if you don't have a local supply.

I did that fussing with my Consew 206. Ran the needle through the my thumbnail, all the way through glancing the bone. It was sore fore a very long time, and bled like a stuck hog.

Beautiful. Is it lined?

Picture?

Have you considered a new consew 206rb-5. You can get them new for around $1300-1400

The clutch on a clutch motor is integrated into the motor, and you don't need it if upgrading to a Servo motor. You will still need a table, belt, foot pedals and linkages for the pedals.

Oh wow, that is an old camera. They quit making those 30 years ago. What lens and iso film are you shooting with?

If you have a local Tandy leather, you can cherry pick their stuff. If not, you have to order it online from a leather supply place like Springfield Leather Company, Zach White Leather Company, or Hide House in California.

Howdy, I also have a Consew 206 that I bought used that came with a lot of cool extras. Mostly old cowboy carttridges for selling belt loops. You can contact Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, and he can fix you right up with the speed reducers. He can also fix you up with thread, needles, roller guides, and presser feet. Others to you can contact are http://www.leathermachineco.com/ - Cobra Steve http://www.neelsaddlery.com/index.html - Ryan Neel ( I believe that is his name). All of those guys are full service leather machine dealers who know what they are talking about. Local sewing supply places typically don't know anything about sewing leather.

The used market on sewing machines is completely dependant on availability. Industrial leather machines are so heavy, no one wants to ship used machines. So local supply and demand determines price. I watched the local classifieds for months and months before I found a good deal. Most folks wanted almost new prices for used machines here. I watched the ads daily. So when one popped up, I called first and bought it.

I believe that is essentially the same as a 206, but with a cylinder arm. Cylinder arms would be very handy for bags and sewing tight areas.

I have a consew 206 that does a great job with leather up to about 3/8" thick using #138 thread.

That does look like the leather is wet. If not, that thing is squashing down on the leather with some serious force.

Mine were vegtan and latigo. I thought that would make them more durable. Probably not the best thing to use.

I made shoes one time. They were pretty comfy, but I got them wet. After they dried, they never were comfy again. They required too much effort to get into, so I never tried to stretch them out.

Takes me about 4-5 hours to hand stich a padfolio or guitar strap including punching the holes, and my fingers hurt like hell afterwards. Once I started making more than a couple, I found a machine.