Colt W Knight

I don't understand why folks buy the Tippman Boss either. Seams like a very clumsy design, and I have read countless reviews on the internet of troubles with the Boss. Love my Servo motor though. Just set it, and forget it.

nice

Very true. Most smaller air compressors designed to run air tools will work to run a HVLP spray gun for smaller projects, however, since they have small compact tanks, they will probably run continuously while spraying because they don't have enough volume to keep up. On projects where you are spraying paints like a guitar or car, the running compressor draws in a lot more moisture and heats up the air in the lines which messes with the paint job. I don't think this would be a problem with leather dyes though. Another option would be to buy a turbine HVLP that does not require a compressor. If the OP didn't already have an air compressor, this might be a better route since the combined cost for a compressor and HVLP would be about the same as a turbine HVLP. Both would be loud.

If you are dying large areas, an airbrush is not the tool for the job. A small HVLP gravity fed spray gun ( used to spray automotive paint) is the way to go. You can get an inexpensive one from any major hardware dealer, even stores like Wal Mart. With a little practice, you can lay down some amazing color with a HVLP. Clean up is a cinch if you use water based products. Here is a 12$ one from Harbor Freight I have used to paint custom electric guitars. These cheapos are prone to breaking, and don't hold adjustment well. But you don't need expensive paint guns to lay down a nice finish.

Cowboy Bob over at Toledo hooked me up with some new accessories for my Consew 206RB-1 1. #138 and # 207 cowboy thread and new needles 2. Roller Edge Guide 3. New Servo Motor. I was surprised how easily I was able to swap out the motor. I have swapped a lot of motors on things like wood working tools, and they are bear to align and tension properly. This servo motor and my old clutch motor had a similar mounting bracket with the same hole pattern. All I had to do was untighten 3 machine bolts, remove the old motor, install the new motor loose, align the pulley, tighten the bracket down, and tension the belt which is super easy on these sewing machine motors since they are hinged. In doing so, I discovered my foot pedals were all adjustable, so I set the angles and tensions that work for my big awkward feet. I was able to forward stitch with the clutch motor alright, and with some practice I could control the speed. However, I wasn't super confident with it, so that leads to mistakes when you start second guessing yourself. I found it hard to backstitch with the clutch because even if I let go of the pedal the motor still ran the mechanisms another half to whole stitch. With the servo, I can back stitch into the same hole no problem. Servo motor makes my machine run super quiet. No more annoying humming. Question for yall - What is the best kind of light bulb to put in my work bench light? I have just a 60 watt fluorescent in there now, and I don't like it. Hard on the eyes, and doesn't focus the light down real well.

A shop press is just a hydraulic jack in a stand and it is used to press bearings and races, as well as anything else you want to press together, and clicker press is specifically designed to work as a die cutter. So with a shop press, you have to jack the handle to move the press a little at a time, and a clicker press will either be pneumatically operated or have a long handle that raises/lowers the press in one motion.

Nice

I really like the lacing

I just use a long straight edge and a utility knife. The old school guys would tell you to scribe a line with a straight edge and awl then use a round knife to cut it.

That's some of the best figure carving I have seen. I wish I could draw that cool tattoo style artwork.

If it hasn't been stored for a long time, or exposed to high temperatures, you can pull it out, wash it off, and tan it like a fresh hide. If it has set a while or exposed to higher temperatuers, the chemical nature of the hide will be changed, and I have no idea what it'll do if you take it out.

Looks like good work to me. I think adding texture would make it pop a lot more.

Same issue with folks making guitars and router templates. Folks were willing to accept the responsibility of making a guitar, but making a router template scared them to death. I use to tell folks that making the router templates was outstanding practice for making the actual guitar, and if you screwed up, it was a piece of mdf or hardboard worth a few dollars, not expensive guitar wood.

I think you are talking about my bobbin winder. This is an old Consew 206RB-1, and doesn't have the fancy built in bobbin winders like a lot of machine. It is mounted externally to the table.

I have the cable off here, but you can see the homemade tube on top where the wire runs. My machine you hold the lever up, not down for reverse, so the wire runs over the top of the machine and down the back through a tube. You can buy 1/4" or 3/8" tube in the plumbing section. Of the hardware store. You can also buy the high tensile wire as well to connect it to the pedal. The pedal can be constructed as simply as using a door hinge and a piece of wood.

My consew 206 has a foot reverse. Basically, a wire connects to the foot pedal, then it runs around the back of the machine, and through a tube that sits on top and then around the reverse lever.

I bought a Singer 66 because I couldn't afford a real leather sewing machine. I read Co flicking info on the Web whether it would sew leather. Read a few things from folks who said you just need to upgrade the motor and press or foot to sew leather. I bought a nice used 66, upgraded to a powerful motor, and added a control feed pseudo walking foot. I setup the machine to work as well as it can run. It is simply not up to the task. Without a proper walking foot, it just can't feed the material well to get consistent stitches. It can physically Punch the needle through about 1/8" on soft leather. It can see lighter duty leather, but it's just not the right tool for the job.

Take a look at the easy to machine impact resistant ABS. I recently bought some to use in our feed mixer at the feedlot.

I recently bought a consew 206rb, very nice machine. I have ran felt, leather, and nylon through it without problems.

I would like to see a pistol stuffed down into that holster. I like the tooling, but the holster looks small for a big magnum revolver. I wouldn't want those rivets riding against any of my wheel guns.

The best way to navigate McMaster's website when buying raw materials is to use the Narrow by window to the left. First, select the size you need, then color if that is important to you. Then read the descriptions of the materials on the right. They will tell you the general use of the material, and give you information on their tensile strength and impact strength. You can use that info to decide what best fits your needs, and return to the narrow by search function on the left. I would imagine something like this would work well http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-sheets/=tjw2ql

Talked to Cowboy Bob today, and he is sending me some new thread,needles, and a servo motor. I picked up a few padfolio orders when I posted these pictures on facebook, so I hope to have some new stuff to show yall soon.

Thanks Bob, those two portfolios paid for all the accessories I ordered from you today. Bob set me up with what will probably be a lifetime supply of thread for me, needles, edge guide, and a new servo motor today.

Thanks Mike

Oh wow.