Colt W Knight

Certainly doesn't look terrible.

Welcome. I got my Masters degree in West Texas. Angelo State University.

I live in Arizona. Welcome.

Would you ship?

If that is the same machine I saw for sale in Texas, I was hoping it would go unsold until I got a chance to get over to Texas in a few weeks. Congrats. Looks like I have to buy a new one.

Love that idea. That setup would be great for folks who make notes in study bibles.

Basically, I am not in the leather business. I am scientist by trade, and projects like leather or guitar building, are a very serious hobby. I do sell some projects, but most of what I make are gifts or fabricating things I use because I like to make stuff. In the immediate future, I have no need for the bigger machine. However, in the future I can see myself repairing horse blankets and even making a saddle or two. A lesson I learned wood working is that if I buy a machine bigger than I think I need, I can find a use for the expanded capacity. The more I think out loud, the more I am leaning towards the big machine.

Thanks Wiz. You are a tremendous help. I have contacted several of the vendors on this forum about buying a new machine, and I now I have to figure out if I want the 3200 or the full size class 4/4500 machine. Plus, who do I order from? Neel, Bob, and Steve were helpful and answered a bunch of my questions. Seams like they were all within 50$ of each other price wise.

I thought those flowers were going to poke me in the eye they stand out so much. Outstanding tooling.

Tapered vs. round When you use a maul to tool, you want to strike the tool square. If you have a straight spherical maul, you hold the maul perpendicular, and raise and drop the maul straight up and down ( you don't want to pivot at your wrist). With a tapered maul, you can hold it at an angle. Ergonomically, it is a personal thing, so only you can decide. Most of us don't have access to try out leather working tools, so it is pure trial and error by buying/trying.

Perhaps your swivel knife cuts weren't deep enough.

I really want to steal your peacock inlay idea! I really want to steal your peacock inlay idea!

Forgive my ignorance, but where do folks go to wear stuff like this? I see stuff like this on the forum a lot, so it must be popular somewhere.

I recently started tooling, and I can see some things I have picked up that will help you. 1. Use an edge guide to mark an edge on the perimeter. Then use your swivel knife to cut that line. You can then take a beveler to make that edge really stand out. 2. Bevel around your swivel knife cuts. Looks like you just used your back grounder. Then use your backgrounder. 3. Work on beveling and shading your tooled design. 4. Something I still struggle with is getting a good non-choppy background. Ideally, you don't want to see the shape of the tool in your impression, but you still need to hit it hard enough that the background sits lower than the tooling to make everything pop.

A few months ago, they had prices posted for those machines, and they were really high.

I think I just officially gave up on used machines, and I am going to just buy a new one.

Does anyone have any good pictures that puts sewing machine thread into perspective? I am new to leather and sewing, so I don't have a good handle on how big/small different thread sizes are.

I order a lot of supplies from McMaster, can't say enough good things about them. Here is a link to the Tee nuts http://www.mcmaster.com/#tee-nut-inserts/=tbcikw Link to machine screws for the tee nuts http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=tbcjcv

Not yet. I will be ready to purchase a machine later this month, and I will check with them then. I was hoping that something decent would pop up local before then. However, I have been watching the classifieds for months now, and everything that seams to be a real leather sewing machine sells for basically retail of what new cowboy or cobra machines sell for.

I have checked with the local dealers, and no one in town carries used/new machines suitable for leather. One store can order more expensive leather sewing machines. I haven't contacted any of the folks out of town for a used machine though.

Basically, I am curious about the value and capabilities of this machine. It popped up on craigslist, and the guy needs some cash. I thought it might be a good opportunity, but I know nothing about sewing machines. Essentially, I am planning on buying a CB3200 if a used machine doesn't pop up. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/for/4620694505.html Regards, Colt

I have now used the Weaver Master Tool 1 1/2" EP punch over 60 times with heavy 13 ounce Latigo leather. It is still sharp, and shows no sign of wear. The 1" oblong punch came polished, and super sharp. I used it thirty times, and no signs of wear yet. Yes, that is a block of bees wax. Lubricating those punch ends makes it go a lot easier, and prevents smaller punches from getting stuck in the leather.

Thanks, I am a leather braiding, stitching and carving newbie. I am learning a lot just trying these projects. My guitar straps have come a long way since I joined this forum. Once I saw the craftsmanship on this forum, I realized I had to step up my game.

Those are 5 ounce veg tan lined with a cheap goat or lamb skin.the lining is fairly thin.