rktaylor

I picked up a couple sizes of hourglass stamps at the Wichita Boot and Saddle Show. I marked the two horizontal lines, but just eyeballed the spacing. It's not too bad, but it could certainly be more even. I'm curious if anyone goes to the effort to mark the spacing. I appreciate any suggestions for creatively using this stamp. Thanks, Randy

Don, Those look great. I like the simplicity. Right or wrong, I always punch a small hole (#2 usually) at the other end of the slot for stress relief. Are they lined or just stitched for appearance? Randy

All, Thanks for all the advice and additional links. I thought I did a thorough search, but I missed that post. It will be a western headstall and Big Sioux was on the mark with my desired style. The photo was a practice piece, though I'll probably go with a smaller concho and add a rosette. That concho was just what I had on hand and I wanted to see what it looked liked. This ended up a little short of 9 inches, but not much. It is 1 inch wide at the bit end, which might be a little wide. I am going to charge ahead with this design. It's an easy piece to remake if I don't like it. Thanks again, Randy

Billy, That's really nice. I have been meaning to make a strap for me, but haven't got to it. Now a neighbor wants a custom guitar strap, so I am doing some research. Thanks for sharing. Randy

I am working on a pattern for a new headstall and have seen some comments on here regarding buckle placement on the cheek. All my store bought headstalls have the buckle above the eye or maybe too close to it (image 02) and measure around 10-11" from the buckle center to the fold at the bit. I know I want to keep the buckle away from the horse's eye. Is it better to place it lower like image 01? I have the Stohlman pattern pack that says the cheek piece should be 12" long. My guess is that the final dimension when folded through the bit and buckle is somewhere around 7-8" (buckle center to the fold at the bit). What's a good finished length for the cheek piece? I want to make a good generic pattern. The first photo in this post is the style I am considering. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56673 Thanks, Randy

Keith, It sounds like I am on the right track, just way behind the leaders. I certainly have some patterns that I like and some that would make good fire starters. Any news on the DVD from Sheridan? Randy

Ron and Bob, Thanks for the insight. I guess I am doing something similar. I just want to make sure I have a good set of patterns for what I want to build so that I can use my leather as efficiently as possible. That assumes I minimize my mistakes which has been a challenge. Randy

I've been busy expanding my leather working area and adding some climate control. I am not sure what my first project in the new area will be, but this question has been in the back of my mind for awhile. I notice in Jeremiah Watt's video that he has a lot of patterns hanging in his shop. Do you professional saddle makers have base patterns for each style of saddle you want to build? I think I am not using my leather very efficiently since I am drawing some of my patterns as I go. Otherwise it seems I need to cut the pieces extra large to make sure I have enough for the final piece. Again, this makes my waste a little higher. I appreciate the cantle back pattern that Keith shared and will likely use it again. I wish I could have attended his workshop in Sheridan, but am hopeful there will be a DVD. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Randy

I know what you mean. I struggle too, but it's all about the chase. Good luck finding one. I have enjoyed following your progress. Randy

Billy, It looks fairly simple to draw. You're going to half to learn to draw it sometime, why not now? I might give it a try when I get a new project going. Randy

Congrats on finishing the first one. It looks nice. I like the laces on the back of the swell cover, but would like to see a few close up photos. I'm always looking for ideas to copy. Randy

Nate, I built my first saddle with little to no instructional material. My thought process was similar to yours. I learn by doing. That said, I would not wish that experience on anyone. Now I have JW's video, Volume 1 and 2 of Stohlman's, Dusty Johnson's package, Harry Adams' book and John Hooper's book. Harry Adam's book is the first place I look when I have a question. Stohlman's books are second. I need to pick up volume 3. With three saddles completed, I am far from an expert (but that hasn't stopped me from chiming in). My advice is to really think about your ground seat. You can hide a lot of mistakes, but this isn't one of them. It doesn't matter whether it's all leather or a tin strainer. Your going to do a lot of head scratching and staring into space, but you will be pleased in the end. And you'll probably be thinking about your second saddle and half way through this one. Good luck. I am looking forward to following your journey. Randy

Adam, I was just curious how you mounted it. Thanks for linking that thread. I haven't seen it in awhile and it's good info. Randy

Well done Adam. While I assume the pins are easier than an exposed stitch line. Regardless you did a nice job on them. I like the in-skirt rigging. Can you post a picture of the rear dee? Is it hand or machine stitched? Thanks, Randy

I like it. What's your dye/antique and finish? Randy

Being only a year or so removed from my first saddle, I am duly impressed. I am still apprehensive about visible stitching on the back of the cantle binding so am even more impressed that you tackled it on the first saddle. I also like the combined of basket weave and floral designs. Great job. Seeing other people's work makes me want to order another tree, but I better hold off for a while. Thanks for sharing, Randy

Thanks for confirming my fears. I suppose it's like the first scratch on a new truck. I expect they will probably fade as the saddle darkens. Randy

This question has probably been answered, but I am too lazy to search very far for it. I put a lot of miles on my new Will James a couple weeks ago. For the first time in a few years, it was really wet. Thus we rode through some muddy streams. I ended up with some spots on the saddle that I can't seem to remove. I did not put a finish on the saddle, except 100% neatsfoot oil. I thought I oiled it well enough, but maybe not. It's three coats and the first was pretty warm when applied. I would like to clean it if possible, but saddle soap is not getting them. It's not a trophy saddle and it rides good, so I can live with them if they won't come out. However, if I can do a better job finishing then maybe I can prevent them in the future. Thanks, Randy

Keith, This sounds like a great opportunity, but unfortunately I won't be able to attend. Will there be course materials that I could purchase? I know it's not the same as attending, but I would be interested nonetheless. I need to make plans to attend this show in the future, but I doubt my wife would view it as a vacation. Randy

Thanks to all for the 'attaboys' and the tutorial on billet ties. I rode 10-12 miles last week and really enjoyed it. The ol' mare never complained either. When I put the saddle on the rack, I understood what Oltoot and Big Sioux were saying about the rigging. It certainly works, but it's an area for improvement. Thanks again for the comments, Randy

Ron, I agree with you on the horn cap. I also need a better pattern for the wrap. I don't think it fit as good as I wanted. I need a little more work on my edges too. I am starting to get real picky and I figure that's a good sign. A beader is on my list. I was going to order a swivel knife beader from Barry King, but am reconsidering it now. I just dropped a pretty good chunk on tolls from Bruce Johnson. It's probably already in a box so adding an edger is too late. Anyway, I want to get a little more creative on my borders. I thought about the triangular lacing pattern on the billets, but haven't figured the pattern out yet. I will see if it's in any books that I have and it won't take long to redo it. To be honest though, I just wanted to get this together and cinch it on a horse. I have spent to much time building saddles and not enough time using them. The tree is from Sonny Felkins and is easily the best I have seen, but that's a pretty small sample. It took about 8-10 weeks, but there were a couple hang ups with the order. It was definitely worth the wait and I know Oltoot speaks highly of their trees. Oltoot, Thanks for the tips on riggings and Cheyenne rolls. I kind of followed the Harry Adams book on the first Cheyenne roll and he doesn't roll the cantle filler over into the Cheyenne roll. That seemed to work out well for me and since it's a little shorter it doesn't look as bulky as this one. I can see where the skiving would help me get a tighter fit. If I stick with my philosophy of building something different, then I don't know what #4 will be. Maybe I should let you guys vote on it. I have made two flat plates and two Cheyenne rolls, so I don't think it will have either of those. I didn't lace my skirts all the way to the edge for the reason you state. Plus they are pretty short and curved back in some, so I hope they won't sore a horse. Regardless, point well taken. I need to learn more about saddle fit, so that should be a good undertaking before I begin the process again. Randy

I just finished this Will James that I started last July. Now I feel bad for asking Goldshot why his saddle took so long. This is my third saddle and I have tried to do something different on each one so I am learning something new. Lacing the swell cover was one of the new tasks. It’s a 15 inch seat on a Quality Mfg. tree. It’s Hermann Oak leather from Panhandle in Amarillo. Everything is hand sewn, but I have been looking for a machine. Some of my struggles along the way were documented in these threads and a couple others. Rigging Plates and Skirts: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=58791 I really struggled with this after I cut my skirts a little shallower than I wanted. I was ready to order more leather and redo them, but I got a lot of good advice for keeping them. I did change the rear rigging style which I think was a good decision. The original dees would have less movement than these. Plus I already had these dees that I didn’t use on another project. The rigging may be more prominent than some would want, but all in all I like the way it looks. Cheyenne Roll: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57986 This was my first Cheyenne roll though I did finish the one on my wife’s barrel saddle before I finished this one. With The roll and cantle binding this one was five pieces of leather whereas hers was only four (the cantle filler wasn’t part of the roll). I think I like four better, but sewing this went faster than I anticipated. My daughter is coming home from college for the weekend, so we are going riding tomorrow. Critiques are welcome and expected. Number 4 may be a ways down the line, but I want to learn. Thanks, Randy

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I will study this some more tonight. I also found another thread on breast collar dee placement. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57295 Randy

Thanks Keith, It's too late for me to mount them on the rigging plate or skirt. When I started the saddle, I envisioned them being mounted at the latigo holder. I just didn't know exactly how I was going to do it. Now I am faced with that task and scratching my head. I could mount them a little lower and screw/nail them through the rigging plate to the tree, but I think I have too much 'bulk' under the front jockey already. That's another topic in itself. Randy

I need some ideas/advice on attaching my breast collar dees. They can't go under the seat. Should I do something like this or incorporate them into my latigo/cinch holders? This is my last piece before oiling and assembly. Except maybe rubbing edges a little more. Thanks, Randy