rktaylor

Congrats on finishing the first one. It looks nice. I like the laces on the back of the swell cover, but would like to see a few close up photos. I'm always looking for ideas to copy. Randy

Nate, I built my first saddle with little to no instructional material. My thought process was similar to yours. I learn by doing. That said, I would not wish that experience on anyone. Now I have JW's video, Volume 1 and 2 of Stohlman's, Dusty Johnson's package, Harry Adams' book and John Hooper's book. Harry Adam's book is the first place I look when I have a question. Stohlman's books are second. I need to pick up volume 3. With three saddles completed, I am far from an expert (but that hasn't stopped me from chiming in). My advice is to really think about your ground seat. You can hide a lot of mistakes, but this isn't one of them. It doesn't matter whether it's all leather or a tin strainer. Your going to do a lot of head scratching and staring into space, but you will be pleased in the end. And you'll probably be thinking about your second saddle and half way through this one. Good luck. I am looking forward to following your journey. Randy

Adam, I was just curious how you mounted it. Thanks for linking that thread. I haven't seen it in awhile and it's good info. Randy

Well done Adam. While I assume the pins are easier than an exposed stitch line. Regardless you did a nice job on them. I like the in-skirt rigging. Can you post a picture of the rear dee? Is it hand or machine stitched? Thanks, Randy

I like it. What's your dye/antique and finish? Randy

Being only a year or so removed from my first saddle, I am duly impressed. I am still apprehensive about visible stitching on the back of the cantle binding so am even more impressed that you tackled it on the first saddle. I also like the combined of basket weave and floral designs. Great job. Seeing other people's work makes me want to order another tree, but I better hold off for a while. Thanks for sharing, Randy

Thanks for confirming my fears. I suppose it's like the first scratch on a new truck. I expect they will probably fade as the saddle darkens. Randy

This question has probably been answered, but I am too lazy to search very far for it. I put a lot of miles on my new Will James a couple weeks ago. For the first time in a few years, it was really wet. Thus we rode through some muddy streams. I ended up with some spots on the saddle that I can't seem to remove. I did not put a finish on the saddle, except 100% neatsfoot oil. I thought I oiled it well enough, but maybe not. It's three coats and the first was pretty warm when applied. I would like to clean it if possible, but saddle soap is not getting them. It's not a trophy saddle and it rides good, so I can live with them if they won't come out. However, if I can do a better job finishing then maybe I can prevent them in the future. Thanks, Randy

Keith, This sounds like a great opportunity, but unfortunately I won't be able to attend. Will there be course materials that I could purchase? I know it's not the same as attending, but I would be interested nonetheless. I need to make plans to attend this show in the future, but I doubt my wife would view it as a vacation. Randy

Thanks to all for the 'attaboys' and the tutorial on billet ties. I rode 10-12 miles last week and really enjoyed it. The ol' mare never complained either. When I put the saddle on the rack, I understood what Oltoot and Big Sioux were saying about the rigging. It certainly works, but it's an area for improvement. Thanks again for the comments, Randy

Ron, I agree with you on the horn cap. I also need a better pattern for the wrap. I don't think it fit as good as I wanted. I need a little more work on my edges too. I am starting to get real picky and I figure that's a good sign. A beader is on my list. I was going to order a swivel knife beader from Barry King, but am reconsidering it now. I just dropped a pretty good chunk on tolls from Bruce Johnson. It's probably already in a box so adding an edger is too late. Anyway, I want to get a little more creative on my borders. I thought about the triangular lacing pattern on the billets, but haven't figured the pattern out yet. I will see if it's in any books that I have and it won't take long to redo it. To be honest though, I just wanted to get this together and cinch it on a horse. I have spent to much time building saddles and not enough time using them. The tree is from Sonny Felkins and is easily the best I have seen, but that's a pretty small sample. It took about 8-10 weeks, but there were a couple hang ups with the order. It was definitely worth the wait and I know Oltoot speaks highly of their trees. Oltoot, Thanks for the tips on riggings and Cheyenne rolls. I kind of followed the Harry Adams book on the first Cheyenne roll and he doesn't roll the cantle filler over into the Cheyenne roll. That seemed to work out well for me and since it's a little shorter it doesn't look as bulky as this one. I can see where the skiving would help me get a tighter fit. If I stick with my philosophy of building something different, then I don't know what #4 will be. Maybe I should let you guys vote on it. I have made two flat plates and two Cheyenne rolls, so I don't think it will have either of those. I didn't lace my skirts all the way to the edge for the reason you state. Plus they are pretty short and curved back in some, so I hope they won't sore a horse. Regardless, point well taken. I need to learn more about saddle fit, so that should be a good undertaking before I begin the process again. Randy

I just finished this Will James that I started last July. Now I feel bad for asking Goldshot why his saddle took so long. This is my third saddle and I have tried to do something different on each one so I am learning something new. Lacing the swell cover was one of the new tasks. It’s a 15 inch seat on a Quality Mfg. tree. It’s Hermann Oak leather from Panhandle in Amarillo. Everything is hand sewn, but I have been looking for a machine. Some of my struggles along the way were documented in these threads and a couple others. Rigging Plates and Skirts: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=58791 I really struggled with this after I cut my skirts a little shallower than I wanted. I was ready to order more leather and redo them, but I got a lot of good advice for keeping them. I did change the rear rigging style which I think was a good decision. The original dees would have less movement than these. Plus I already had these dees that I didn’t use on another project. The rigging may be more prominent than some would want, but all in all I like the way it looks. Cheyenne Roll: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57986 This was my first Cheyenne roll though I did finish the one on my wife’s barrel saddle before I finished this one. With The roll and cantle binding this one was five pieces of leather whereas hers was only four (the cantle filler wasn’t part of the roll). I think I like four better, but sewing this went faster than I anticipated. My daughter is coming home from college for the weekend, so we are going riding tomorrow. Critiques are welcome and expected. Number 4 may be a ways down the line, but I want to learn. Thanks, Randy

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I will study this some more tonight. I also found another thread on breast collar dee placement. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57295 Randy

Thanks Keith, It's too late for me to mount them on the rigging plate or skirt. When I started the saddle, I envisioned them being mounted at the latigo holder. I just didn't know exactly how I was going to do it. Now I am faced with that task and scratching my head. I could mount them a little lower and screw/nail them through the rigging plate to the tree, but I think I have too much 'bulk' under the front jockey already. That's another topic in itself. Randy

I need some ideas/advice on attaching my breast collar dees. They can't go under the seat. Should I do something like this or incorporate them into my latigo/cinch holders? This is my last piece before oiling and assembly. Except maybe rubbing edges a little more. Thanks, Randy

My wife got a pretty good ride in last weekend (4-5 miles). No complaints on the seat, so I did something right. I get less impressed with my finish everyday, but that's another story. Thanks for all the tips and discussion. I'll never look at a saddle seat the same again. #3 should be done soon. I'll post pics then. Randy

Thanks for the tips. I printed a couple from Word to try. I don't remember the fonts, but they looked good on paper. However they weren't easy to carve. I'll try some others. Randy

Ron, Your swell cover looks good. I know that was one area you wanted to improve and you sure accomplished the goal. I like your tooling as well. You have a good style. I have struggled with the ear cuts. I finally got them cut right (at least good enough) the first time on my current saddle. Good luck with the seat. I know it is stressful. Randy

Andy, My suggestion would be to build them one at a time. Preferably yours first, so you will have more experience when you build your lady's. I was building my second and third simultaneously and ended up really only working on one at a time. If you are full time leatherworker it makes sense to be working on two at a time, but not for us hobbyists. It will be a rewarding journey. Enjoy, Randy

I don't have a set of alphabet stamps and need to put a name on a dog collar. The letters will be 5/8 to 3/4 inches (16-19 mm). I was going to print the name, then trace and carve it. Any suggestions on a font that would be easy to carve and look good. Thanks, Randy

I just put down my Stohlman volume 2 and then looked at your saddle and had to look again. Nice work. It looks like you took your time. The swell lacing and edges look good. Randy

I apologize for the confusing questions, but I am back on track. I believe it all comes back to assembly order and the fact that I am mixing methods from multiple sources (Watt, Adams, and Stohlman). I am looking for my groove, but I am a long ways from answering questions. Thanks for helping me learn. Randy

I watched part of the JW DVD this morning. Though he doesn't mention it specifically, he does oil the part of the skirts that contact the bars before he installs them. Randy

Ron, If you think I am confusing you, you should see me. Ha. My first saddle basically followed Dusty Johnson's plan. The second was the in-skirt rigging and I was making up a lot on the go. It was easy to oil everything because the skirts/rigging went on last. Jeremiah Watt installs skirts before the back of the rigging so the tugs are under the rigging. He doesn't mention oiling until late in the process. I have followed enough of his steps up to now, it's kind of hard to change. I think I am going to oil the parts of the skirts that aren't visible before I install them and then oil the visible parts when I do the rest of the saddle. I am hoping to find a 'system' that works for me, but I don't know if I will ever build enough saddles to accomplish that. However, since I have been numbering my saddles with two digits (I didn't figure I would ever need three), my daughter pointed out that if I don't build 10 I wasted the first digit. Thanks for taking the time to reply. I appreciate the advice. Randy

Thanks for the feedback. I am not sure what I was thinking about installing the skirts ahead of the swell cover. I hope to get the swell cover installed before the weekend so I can start thinking about the seat. I need to look over someone's shoulder for a while. I need the skirts in place before I fit my seat. Do you install the skirts temporarily to fit the seat and then wait until the seat is fit for final installation? If so, do you pull the rear lugs over the top of the rigging plate (flat plate rigging)? My educational material says they go on under the plates. I am probably mixing methods from several makers. I don't know if that's good or bad, I am just trying to find my way. Thanks, Randy