Regis

Would you add to list: -Put "View New Post" link/button on bottom of page like the old one. When you read long post & replies, it's nice to click "view New"

Johanna & gang, Site is looking terrific. Hope you are getting some sleep between fixing all the odds & ends. Looks like I'll have to learn my way around in the new format. Thanks for striving to keep up to date. Regis

I'm making some knife & leatherman sheaths. Using 4/5 oz veg-tan and overlaying with snake-skin print pig (Hidehouse). I'm gluing and sewing. Should I be gluing entire surface? That's what I've done so far. Also, should I be applying anything in the form of finish to the cowhide? The pig is garment leather. I've used both Tanner's bond & Tidebond's clear wood glue for trim. Both seem to work. I glue then generally form before glue dries. Appreciate any tips as I haven't done complete overlays before. Regis

Hi Ya David. Glad you joined us. This is great place to hang out to give and get help/tips. Regis

Welcome to our great group. This is definately place to help grow your skills

Holly, Cool idea to use theme from their invitation. You could put 2 side-by-side starfish with arm linked or each with ring on one arm.

Yep, got that ache under the sholder for sure. Now, I glad I when with a machine with motor but, might just have had a very strong arm by now..

Welcome Shoes! No stress on the board. This is place to relax, have a cup of coffee and enjoy the company. Glad you found us. Regis

A few years ago, I almost bought a Boss. Today after making some leatherman cases, I stopped to reload some shells for trap shooting. Pull after pull on the lever and I thought this reloader must feel like a Boss stitcher. Well, 100 rounds ready to shoot next Tuesday and now back to leather for show 10 days. Are there other reloaders here? Regis

Johanna I hope everyone that gets word of a new product will post with some specifics.

Welcome to LW.net where lots of helpful & friendly folk hang out. Glad you found us and looking forward to seeing some of your work. Regis

Thank you for sharing those great works. The middle one is particularly awesome. Are you a Corel user or? Regis

Excellent both in design and finish work. I've been doing more soft leather and need to do a tooled case. Regis

Really good list Bob. But, some items are directly related to item and some need grouped as overhead to be divided and added into all work (like a charge added to hourly labor). I do not agree with the car repair analogy (except saddles for working horses). Cars are primary transportation and have a huge replacement vs repair cost. Person can typically wait a couple weeks for bag or jacket repair. Just try that in auto repair. Leather items being repaired are more for comfort or personal preference items. Using Bob's list would likely allow for regional or local differences plus an allowance for skill level. Good topic. regis

Pictures worked this time. Bag looks very neat and functional. What is done with the long strap when carrying by the handle (like in last photo)? Thanks to the photo's. regis

Welcome, OdinUK, Lots of helpful folks here and tutorials to do. Included are some other fine folk from the UK also. Looking forward to seeing some of your work. Regis

Looks like a good time had by all. I struggling getting over that I could not make the treck. We need to pull enough people together to drag you out east here for a class. Especially southeast...hint....hint. How would you like the white beaches Clay? And, have enjoyed all the pictures of everyone. Regis

From my experience (only few years) yes. Still need to be carefull not to bare down when you strop so it doen't round up the edge. When you strop, watch closely. If the leather rises in front of your blade as you draw back, you are pressing too hard. Took me a long time to get/keep sharp blade. Now, I strop very often and without much pressure....just keeping polish in edge. If you put flesh up, it holds a lot more rouge but, I don't know if that is important. Regis

I've seen posts here supporting both ways. I believe the closer to perfectly flat the better. If you use flesh up, with thicker leather, it will tend to round-over your edge if you press down at all. You'll see people gluing a business card to very flat surface like glass. That leaves no chance to round-over as longs as you keep your angle even. I use a very hard and very flat board, with 3 sections; 1200 grit, 2 oz veg tanned leather grain up, and card stock all glued down. The leather and card stock have rouge on them. This works really good for me. Regis

Matt, Welcome to a great forum with loads of both very talented as well as beginer folk. Really looking forward to seeing some of your work. Reading your post makes me want to make a fly wallet this evening. Again, welcome, Regis

I see welt feet advertized from about 1/8" to about 1/2" and there is no place local to look at any. Is that the size of the total width of the groove? Or perhaps the hight of the groove? Or is it the welt cord size you are using? If I'm putting 1/8" cord in 2-3 oz leather would be just about 1/4" (if I can calculate right). Would I order 1/8" or 1/4" foot? Is there a suggested or at leat popular size welt for bags and purses in the 1.5-4oz leather class? Thank you, Regis

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I eventually bought a slot punch. BUT, before that, Luke taught me to use a round punch on both ends and then razer knife each side (using steel rule). Give you a nice slot and doesn't even take much practice to get them right. Regis

Welcome Elly. With a little bit of reading here you can surprise your leather working friends with knowledge. Now making a glove is one challenging start. Looking forward to seeing some of your work. Regis

Thank you all. Been a very good day. Of course, I've had a LOT of birthdays to practice [lol] Regis