Tejas

If with stretchy material such as webbing, the failure of stitches under load tended to be towards the the direction of the load, then sewing parallel to the edge of the webbing versus orthogonal to the edge of the webbing seems to be counter intuitive. Wouldn't breaking the end of a parallel to the edge stitch-line tend to compromise the entire stitch-line?

Mark, You might want to read the pinned thread below. I think you will learn that you want a compound walking-foot sewing machine. The LSZ is a walking foot zig zag machine. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/25239-the-type-of-sewing-machine-you-need-to-sew-leather/

As for increasing surface friction, inserting a reinforcing piece of webbing between the two webbing layers apparently does that. Here is a link about sailboat jack-lines (safety lines attached to the deck to which a harness tether can be attached while on-deck, especially in heavy weather). http://westpacmarine.com/blog/category/straps-and-webbing/ I think I recall a similar article about strengthening parachute webbing joints but can't locate it.

Practical sailor, April 2015, did test of various hand sewing techniques for webbing and concluded that seven parallel stitch patterns were the strongest, and that the joint, either the stitching or the webbing, would start failing from the ends of the joint. The objective was to discover stitching that had approximately the same strength as the the webbing. The article stated that rock climber's slings are load tested and that parallel "Machine-stitched bar-tacking is the norm for professional rock-climbing gear." The following link depicts an example. https://www.rei.com/product/830935/mammut-contact-sling-dyneema-cordelette-80

A surgeon's knot, a slight modification of the square knot (aka reef knot), is more reliable than a square knot. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surgeon's_knot

Here is a link to a thread about DIY tables that might have tips, especially posts from thesergeant. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/48789-has-anyone-built-their-own-industrial-sewing-tables-can-you-critique-my-idea/

Copy of manual for more direct download from member greeg at keysew. http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf

Folks following this link because of interest in the Juki LU-562 or 563 might also be interested in chapter 4 -- Sewing Machine Repair -- of the following link, which states. Your shop may have the Consew Model 225, the Juki LU-562, or the Singer Model 111 W 155 sewing machine. These three sewing machines are essentially identical, and all specifications and instructions are the same for all three sewing machines. http://militarynewbie.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/NAVEDTRA-14217-Aircrew-Survival-Equipmentman-1-C.pdf

I don't have an original copy. However, the Keysew copy is quite legible. Send me a PM and I'll print and send you a copy -- no reimbursement.

Perhaps amaturesewing was referring to was the optional Bernina 217 cam reader that was mounted on the back of the machine. As Constabulary mentions, the 807 seems to have little in common with the 217 other than zig zag.

Here is a link to Singer sewing machine serial number. http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html

Fixed apparently while you were posting.

While getting your machine setup right is the focus here, there are inexpensive aids for going over humps. To sew over humps such as a flat-felled seam, I've used Jean-a-ma-jig (aka hump-jumper) that can can be gotten from Joann or Amazon, or Presser Foot Spacers http://www.threadstandhero.com/Presser_Foot_Spacers.html

As for using WD-40, here is post from the link below: A study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best! Here's the summary of the test results: Penetrating oil ..... Average load None ...................... 516 pounds WD-40 ................... 238 pounds PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds Kano Kroil ............. 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-penetrating-oil-196347/

Quality matters. I lived in Japan for about 10 years and was amazed at the quality of products in my local hardware store, and disappointed when I returned to the US and experienced what seemed to be a decline in quality, not because of US, European or Japanese products, but because of the unavailability of those products. Essentially, lower cost, lower quality products, aka Chinese products, drove out reasonable priced, good quality products. Mazada Ford transmissions were a classic example that quality matters. Apparently American machinists set their machines at the closest tolerance and ran the machines until machine was at the least tolerance. Japanese machinists set the machines at the closest tolerance and reset the machines on each run. To me, an indication of the quality of some made in China products is the quality of the documentation. Amazing that a machine might be cloned but the documentation not plagiarized. http://www.specinnovations.com/ford-vs-mazda-transmissions-why-quality-matters/

The Juki 1541S is a compound walking foot sewing machine made in Japan that should be suitable for your application.

Cordes sewing machines made in Australia might be the most expensive -- six figures I was told -- I've seen in operation. Here is a video showing four-point, three-step zig-zag. The rotating disk on top of the arm is a cam that is machined internally to provide the zig-zag cam surface, and that alone probably costs more than most otherwise expensive sewing machines.

I sew in a quite small room, and have four 4' x 2' fold-up, slick-top tables from Costco that when not in use are stored between the wall and the sewing table. The fold-up tables can be arrayed in various configurations in front of or behind the sewing table. The longest run I've sewed is replacing a zipper in a 50' jib cover -- four passes, two for each side of the zipper. I used a single fold-table beside me nested up against the sewing table on which the cover was layered in a stack and let the cover fall on the floor in front of the machine. It was necessary to ease the fabric forward, but there was no need to push or pull the material, the compound-feed pulled the material through. There is room for using only one table in the sewing room, and I have moved the machine temporarily to another room and used more tables to sew bigger, heavier projects such as replacing the UV panel on the same jib.

The demeanor and moderating on this site seems satisfactory.

I agree that the task is rather large. However, were you to decide to make such a list or database, as a starting point for the format attached are pdf and spreadsheet versions made for comparing some cylinder arm machines. Cylinder Head.xlsx Cylinder Head.pdf BTW, the information came form different sources and might not all be accurate.

According to page 11 of the attached user manual, the Juki 562 and Juki 563 have reverse. JukiLU-562-3Owners.pdf

If you can find a 111G156 I think I recall from other other on-line information that it, or at least some, has reverse.

I agree in principal, but I've followed the Sailrite forum for a long time. There are many branded machines similar to Sailrite machines from the same factory at lower prices, but do not seem to have as bad a reputation -- Barracuda for example. Try the following in google and result is not as pejorative as for TuffSew: barracuda site:forum.sailrite.com Try others, I haven't. I buy supplies from Sailrite, but not sewing machines. Given the right situation, I might.

The link below on Tuffsew is from Sailrite's sewing forum. Tuffsew Post

I started sewing with a Singer 111W155 and think it is a very capable machine. Other than lacking reverse it seemed just a capable as my current machine, a Juki 1508. Unless you are skilled with a clutch-motor, you might want to consider variable speed servo-motor. Here is a link to the user manual. http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/111W152_W153_W154_W155.pdf