Tejas

Here is a very readable copy of the Juki 562/563 user guide. Most other online copies seem not that readable. The difference between the 562 and the 563 is primarily the bobbin size -- the 563 bobbin is larger. http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf

Here is a link to an upholstery forum. http://www.upholster.com/upholstery-forum/ I have a Juki 1508 and concur with Wiscrafts recommendation of a 1541S. The S model is about $100 more than the 1541 model and has a safety clutch. My dealer is Greg at Keysew -- www.keysew.com -- who is active here and on the upholstery forum.

Send me a PM for the service manual -- to large to attach.

Chapter 4 of this manual might be helpful. The manual states: "Your shop may have the Consew Model 225, the Juki LU-562, or the Singer Model 111 W 155 sewing machine. These three sewing machines are essentially identical, and all specifications and instructions are the same for all three sewing machines. For simplicity we will use the Singer 111 W 155 as a model for all three sewing machines." http://militarynewbie.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/NAVEDTRA-14217-Aircrew-Survival-Equipmentman-1-C.pdf

It'll take a while, but I think if you search the Internet enough you might find that the Reliable Barracuda comes out of the same factory in China that makes Sailrite machines.

Attached is a 25 page Sewing Machine Troubleshooting Chart that lists 31 causes and solutions for skipping stitches. sewing_troubleshooting_chart.pdf

This topic reminds me an often retold quality control story. 'In the early 70’s, Ford Motor Company bought an interest in the Japanese automobile company, Mazda. Shortly after the partnership started, Ford discovered that the Japanese manufactured transmissions were seven times more reliable and smoother running than the American-made version. The management team at Ford disassembled the Japanese transmission and to their surprise, discovered that the parts were meticulously machined to a tolerance way beyond industry specifications. The blueprints allowed a tolerance of plus or minus a few millimeters, and while the American-made gears varied within the allowable tolerance, all of the Japanese-made gears were right on the desired value with a negligible amount of variation. The American transmission was built with a standard of “good enough” because it met the acceptable levels for tolerance.' https://www.salesgravy.com/sales-articles/professional-development/professional-goals-pursue-excellence-dont-settle-for-just-good-enough.html Apparently, US machinists set the milling machines at one end of the tolerance and ran the machines until wear on the cutting tools resulted in parts at the other end of the tolerance. Japanese machinists reset the machines on each part to the desired tolerance.

I also live in Austin and would like to know who is your local dealer. BTW, I think you made a good choice. Attached is a pdf copy of the service manual for the Juki 1541. JUKI_DNU-1541_SERVICE_MANUAL.pdf

One difference I think is that later models of the Consew are made in China, I think starting with -5 a few were still made in Japan. The Juki 1541S is still made in Japan. The Juki has an integrated bobbin winder which I like. I think that the Juki might be a more modern design. I sewed for about three-weeks with a Consew 206RB which didn't like much. I have a Juki 1508 which I like very much.

Attached is a sewing trouble shooting chart that lists 24 causes and solutions for needle breakage. sewing_troubleshooting_chart.pdf

Attached is a service manual for the Juki 1541. Using find for "breakage," needle breakage was found a few times. JUKI_DNU-1541_SERVICE_MANUAL.pdf

Here is a link to an instruction manual for the 5550 and 5530. On page 7 there is a specification page that shows differences. http://www.allbrands.com/images2/common/DDL-5550DDL-553InstructionManual.pdf

I have a Singer Service Manual entitled Singer_211G146_151_157_158_351_357_358_451_457_651_658.pdf that might be helpful but that is too large to post and have been unable to find a copy elsewhere online. Send me a PM and I'll eMail the document.

By foot raise, the spreadsheet lists two methods of raising the foot to insert material for sewing -- by hand or typically by a lever on the the back of the machine or by knee (or by a pedal). By knee or by pedal is higher than by hand and more convenient I think.

I am also in the process of evaluating cylinder bed machines for sewing leather. Although I'm not knowledgeable and just beginning the process, I think that key decisions including thread size ranges, leather thickness ranges, stitch lengths, ... are all important technical considerations, and then of course there is the price consideration. Attached is the pdf version of a spreadsheet that you might use as a starting template and modify as appropraite to help make a decision. The data in the spreadsheet is from manufacturers' or dealers' specifications, but there might be transcription errors. The data is incomplete because it is not always easy to find. I've decided that my technical decision parameters should be within the manufacturer's specifications and not the claims of others. BTW, apparently posting a spreadsheet is not allowed. Please send a PM if you want the xlsx version. Cylinder Head.xlsx.pdf

Page 22 of the Juki 1541 Service Manual, attached below, states: "The safety clutch functions when an excessive load is applied to the hook driving shaft or the like during sewing. When the safety clutch functions, the hook will not rotate even if turning the handwheel, and the hook driving shaft sprocket wheel only will run idle since the power is not transmitted to the hook driving shaft." Member Gregg at Keysew has a link to the owner's manual but that does not seem to cover the safety clutch. http://www.keysew.com//Webpages/Owners&JUKI_DNU-1541_SERVICE_MANUAL.pdfJUKI_DNU-1541_SERVICE_MANUAL.pdf/OwnersBooks/DNU-1541-7OwnersManual.pdf

Frequently I've wanted to save posted pdf files. However, while acrobat would allow printing, acrobat would not allow saving. A trick for saving these files on OS X has been to email the file to myself via acrobat, and upon receipt save the pdf file via Apple mail.

Kristen, Apologies if you already know, but please beware that walking-foot does not mean compound walking-foot. I'm still and perhaps always be a tyro but the difference is significant.

Further on bottom corners, see post #12 for what seems to be a novel idea. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=55422#entry355443

I have a Juki 1508 and am using a Family FESM-550S Variable speed servo motor and am quite pleased. I think that both Keysew and Toledo Sewing carry them. I also have a Consew servo motor that I'm not pleases with.

Interesting stuff for sure. Here is a link to a saveable version. http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Seam-Engineering-2-5-10.pdf

Just noticed this thread and I had the same thought. I'm very much a beginner and one-after-the-other right angle corners have been a real hassel for me. I'm using a sewing machine so my experience might not be applicable to hand sewing. To mitigate the problem, change the design, but still three pieces -- front piece, back and front flap piece, both with rounded corners, and a continuous gusset from one side, around the bottom and up the other side. Apply Tanner's bond leather craft cement and clamp before sewing. Rounded corners, gluing and clamping have made all the difference between scrap projects and keeper projects. Use small, 40 cent spring clamps from Homedepot. I initially bought 20 and later an additional 20. None of these are my original ideas, and most come from Arthur Porter's youtube video on making a messenger bag.

Here is a link to the effectiveness of various penetrating oil choices: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-penetrating-oil-196347/

Still very much a novice, and in addition to the cutting surface being important, an edge guide for straight cuts seems important. Among several tools, Omnigrid edge guides that apparently are designed mostly for quitters are my favorite.

Tree Reaper would you please report your machine and the settings you use. I recently purchased a Pesola precision spring scale that measures 0 - 300 g the same purpose. I'm still experimenting and have only used it for thread tension, Juki 1508, V-92 thread with a setting of about 275 g. The idea came from the following link. http://sew24.blogspot.com/2012/11/how-to-measure-thread-tension-with.html