Tejas

Judy, You've probably already found the Sailrite pdf and video information. In case not, try the following query in google. sailrite fabricator manual site sailrite.com

Wizcrafts seems to be correct. According to the following Sailrite chart, the Fabricator is a compound walking foot machine. https://www.sailrite.com/PDF/Straight-Stitch-Sewing-Machine-Comparison-Chart.pdf

Link to download Instruction Manual https://www.supsew.com/wpfb-file/seiko-lsc-instruction-manual-pdf/

I also did mostly vinyl and marine canvas for my sailboat. As for the type of machine for that application, I strongly favor a compound walking-foot machine vs a walking-foot machine -- the addition of needle-feed to walking-foot makes a huge difference. My first machine was a 111W155 that could do almost everything I can do with my current Juki 1508.

The 111w class brochure link in the following thread might help. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/88340-singer-111w155-or-singer-111w154/

Frequently I think that that in general the searches provided by web sites are not very good. Accordingly, I almost never use them. Instead I use google and the "site" keyword, as in: [search subject, which might include quotes for phrases or other arcane google search syntax] site leatherworker.com

Contraire -- what what works for some folks might not work for other folks. The OP seems to offer a repeatable solution for varying situations.that might appeal to some users.

Here are two links on using a spring scale to measure tension: http://jukiindia.com/Item-List/Adjustment_Procedue.pdf http://sew24.blogspot.com/2012/11/how-to-measure-thread-tension-with.html

Tammy, here is a link to very good pdf copy of the 563 user manual just in case you don't already have a copy or the machine doesn't come with the manual. http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf

Gymnast, if I understand correctly, at the end of your video you mention a youtube video you made about your machine. Would you please post a link to that video.

Attached below is a copy of that entire document. 111W155_Repair_NAVEDTRA_14217_01032011.pdf

Here are a few more. sewing_troubleshooting_chart.pdf SewUSA TroubleShooting.pdf Troubleshooting.pdf

Here is a very recent article on sewing webbing. https://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Sew-Webbing-Loops

Bugstruck suggests to "Give the leading edge of the feet a temporary (usually just one stitch) bridge to thicker material." Similarly: For sewing over thickness changes, a spacer such as a jean-a-ma-jig or hump jumper can be used. Sew up to the hump, and with the needle buried raise the foot and insert the spacer behind the needle and manually sew up onto the hump. Sew across the hump. To sew off of the hump, while still on the hump raise the foot with the needle buried, insert the spacer in front of the needle and manually sew over the drop-off before removing the spacer. Jeaan-a-ma-jigs are inexpensive and can be gotten on amazon or at Joanns.

Here is a link to an article on hand sewing webbing. As for strength of the union, several parallel stretch lines orthogonal to the edge of the webbing is apparently the strongest. Climbing webbing is sewed that way, https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_52/features/Is-Hand-stitched-Nylon-Webbing-Strong-Enough_11663-1.html

Here is Wiz's video of a compound walking-foot machine that shows the movement of the "inside foot and needle." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-QjJgJKKVM

Chapter 4 of NAVEDTRA 14217 which includes the Consew 225, which I think lacks reverse but might be similar, might help. On page 4-9: 2. Adjusting the total relative lift of the alternating pressers The total relative lift of the alternating pressers referred to here is that the feet lift one-half inch at total lift. .... http://militarynewbie.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/NAVEDTRA-14217-Aircrew-Survival-Equipmentman-1-C.pdf

Here are four ways to lock stitches at the start and end of a run without back-tack reverse: 1. Bury the needle, turn the material end for end and sew over the seam. The result is the same as a back-tack but not always practical for large projects. 2. Sew to the end of the run. Lift the foot slightly pull the material about 1/2 inch toward you, drop the foot and sew over the seam. It is important when pulling the material toward you to maintain upper and lower thread tension to avoid a jam. 3. At each end of the run, leave several inches of thread. Tug the thread on the under-side and pull the top-thread through. Tie off the two threads with a surgeon's knot. A square knot can be used, but a surgeon's knot is more secure. 4. Same as above, but leave even longer threads. Do not pull through. Thread a needle on each and sew several stitches back through the same holes in the seam, essentially the same as a manual saddle-stitch. A hassle, but the resulting back-tack should be more secure than a machine back-tack. Also, the result is cosmetic. However, reverse, at lease on some machines, can be used for needle positioning, such at the end of run or when turning a corner.

Here is a cached link to the TFSR sewing machine manual that includes Singer 201, and that might be helpful. The manual is also available elsewhere for a fee. http://web.archive.org/web/20160403015721/http://www.tfsr.org/publications/technical_information/sewing_machine_manual/ You might want to download all chapters before the cache disappears.

Both multifilament polypropylene rope (ask for floating line) and nylon webbing can be purchased at a chandlery. For looking online you might try West Marine or APS for the line. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/samson-rope--mfp-multi-filament-polypropylene-floatline--P005_152_002_503?recordNum=7 http://www.apsltd.com/line/polypropylene-sailboat-line-rope.html For webbing or 3/8" line, you might try Sailrite. https://www.sailrite.com/search?keywords=nylon webbing https://www.sailrite.com/Regatta-Lite-Single-Braid-Polypropylene-Line-3-8-Yellow

Raksha, Below is a link to a manual for several vintage Singer machines, including the 99. The manual in chapters used to be online but has been removed. However, here is a link to a cached copy. If interested, you might want to download a copy of all chapters before it really disappears. However, a copy is now available elsewhere for sale. http://web.archive.org/web/20160403015721/http://www.tfsr.org/publications/technical_information/sewing_machine_manual/

Chapter 4 of a manual that might be helpful for self-service is: http://militarynewbie.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/NAVEDTRA-14217-Aircrew-Survival-Equipmentman-1-C.pdf and that states: "Your shop may have the Consew Model 225, the Juki LU-562, or the Singer Model 111 W 155 sewing machine. These three sewing machines are essentially identical ...." Here is an edited version of chapter 4: http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/USNavySinger111WConsew225REPAIR.pdf

I should have mentioned that a simple, pleasing looking and reliable knot that might fit the OP's application is the figure-eight loop, aka figure-eight follow thru, figure-eight on a bight, flemish-eight or flemish loop. https://www.animatedknots.com/fig8follow/

The bowline is reliable under load but does have limitations. According to wikipedia: "Although the bowline is generally considered a reliable knot, its main deficiencies are a tendency to work loose when not under load, to slip when pulled sideways[3] and the bight portion of the knot to capsize in certain circumstances.[4] To address these shortcomings, a number of more secure variations of the bowline have been developed for use in safety-critical applications." Among more reliable bowline variants are the cassock bowline, double or triple bowline, water bowline and Yosemite tie-off bowline. https://knowpreparesurvive.com/survival/skills/bowline-knots/

Here is a link to an animated knot web site. There are other sites. https://www.animatedknots.com