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Everything posted by SLudlow
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Interested as well, depending on price and patterns.
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Always a point when it's time for the pros to do their thing! Let us know how she cleans up.
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Seiko 8Bld-3 - Any Differences From The Clones?
SLudlow replied to SLudlow's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Wiz, Again, thank you very much for the informative info! Really do appreciate it. I do have the manual; so much more comprehensive than I'm used to. I'll be doing quite a bit of fiddling and adjusting to make her purr. I just love how flexible she was working on different weights on a single piece. Great machine. -
They run ads at the top of the page. All are really a pleasure to deal with. Before sending you their way, what sort of leather belts are you doing? How long have you been working on things? What are you looking to use the machine for specifically?
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In short, no. I personally have found this thread to be very helpful is sparsing out exactly what sort of "entry level" machine might be used for relatively lightweight leatherwork, and where a more powerful machine might be useful. I'm no expert, and I'm sure the more experienced folks will give more direct input. For an entry level machine, I would advise that you should expect to spend at least a grand. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53374
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Seiko 8Bld-3 - Any Differences From The Clones?
SLudlow replied to SLudlow's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
DDahhl, Thanks for the reply! I hope that you've enjoyed your Seiko, any quirks or oddities that you've noticed working with her? (I ask only because I think every machine has its little differences, even amongst clones) This particular machine was purchased new for $1350 including servo and table. Ty for the advice regarding purchasing brand-name parts, I'd been operating on the idea that I would likely source the more readily available consew parts. - Stefan -
Seiko 8Bld-3 - Any Differences From The Clones?
SLudlow replied to SLudlow's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Thank you very much for the comprehensive listing of modifications! Incredibly helpful, and I really appreciate it. I'll be putting many of these recommendations into practice in the near future! -
Purchased a new Seiko 8BLD-3 with table and servo motor. She's a beaut, and does exactly what I need her to do for the production work we do here and there. I just wanted to touch base and make sure that I understand her right. AFAIK, the more common Consew 206RB is almost an exact clone, so all info on this forum that pertains to the 206RB will pertain to the Seiko. This is correct, no? The posts regarding the National clone also apply, AFAIK? There aren't any particular quirks to her, or anything I should be aware of before we get her really chugging? I'll be using much of the info in the recent "breaking into the Industrial machine" thread on guidance for needles and thread sizing. Last but not least, she came set up for upholstry work. Any recommended modifications or purchases I should make in the near future for the leatherwork we do? That work being your basic rifle slings, guitar straps, 8/9oz belts, wallets, and 5oz bags. Most she will ever be asked to do is 20oz for a few inches.
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I'm certain a cardholder with a thin foil lining between a liner and the leather would meet your needs. I'm also certain it'd sell to the prep paranoid crowd! But, sadly, the "chip" system that Europe is using and some folks are wanting us to use is quite a bit more secure, rather than less so.. Our cards work on a "signature" basis, which means you can use it fraudulently more easily. The "chip" system requires a PIN, like your debit card, and as such would be impossible to use without the corresponding PIN number you keep secure up in your noggin. Someone could get your RF info, but it'd be as useful to the crook as two left feet. Only reason we still use the signature system is that big retailers don't want to spend the $$& on all those new credit card readers they'd have to buy.
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Have you considered working with a thick hot stuffed chrome tan? If you aren't tooling it, that is.
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Safety
SLudlow replied to KronicSonic's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
My rule of thumb is that if my body doesn't like it, then it probably isn't good for it. Have you spoken to the cobbler and asked about the smell? Certainly the building owner might be someone to contact? -
5 bundles left.
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6 bundles left.
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For Sale: We have available 7 bundles of 10 1.5" 9/10oz Leather Straps from Marfil Tannery. Average length is 60" inches, with pasted backs. These are unusually nice, and any straps that have serious scars, scrapes, or marks in the central work area that might affect a project have been removed from the lots. There may be marks near the tips. Please see the photos here: http://imgur.com/a/gVN1y To Your Door price is $71.00 for 10 Straps.
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This is perfect advice, thank you very much. I found a box that is 8x8x48-90, expandable. That should work to keep the hides safe, and particularly for smaller hides the shipping shouldn't be horrible. Again, I really appreciate it, and hopefully my customers will too! I'll give UPS a call and see if we can work something out with them.
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Thank you for the input! My main concern is that if we just wrap the leather, we really risk a box getting set atop it, potentially damaging what someone might be paying $100+ for. But, 50" boxes are not cheap. Considering the dimensions (50"x6"x6" with 20" girth @ 10lbs) we probably will get tossed into freight.
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Hey folks, We've gotten a load of leather sides in, and are trying to sort out the most economical way to get them to the customer. If you've shipped leather sides before, what was your method? Did it get to its destination in good condition? What price did you pay? Thanks in advance!
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I've seen those about here and there. The more people who have good scans and images of different decals from different periods the better. I do have a bit of a love affair with restored Singers, give that 17 a go!
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Definitely get some high resolution scans of these! Great find.
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Thanks for the info, will give it a swing!
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I too agree.
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I've found that pricking irons, as opposed to stitching chisels, is that the teeth often widen from the point all the way up to the head of the tool. If you punch in too far, I've found it easy to weaken the leather in between the stitches because of this. So, I always prick, never punch.
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I'm salivating about the historical leather!
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Welp, talked with Ed this morning at Indianapolis Sewing Machine Co. after speaking with Bob from Toledo. Got some good prices for the parts needed, but asked Ed what his personal opinion regarding the machine was, and I think we both came to the understanding that the poor old girl is just worn out. She's been run hard for a long time, and now it's time for her to go out to pasture. Always a risk when you get an old machine!
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Thanks for the ebay heads up, that'll be my last resort if I'm unable to find the part elsewhere. Talked with Toledo this morning, unfortunantely no luck.