DCKNIVES

Justin,lots of questions but I'll see if I can help you some.I do sheaths and holsters but work almost exclusively with exotics.Having not done a purse my advice may not follow the traditional method but I would do the purse panels as inlays.Doing this you would cut a "window" in the main panel and glue your gator to the liner and then sew all three together. If your sewing machine is up to the task it can be used.I hand stitch mine because I am still rebuilding my 90 year old Singer.No problem with handstitching just slower.you can also use an awl or drill both work well. I also use shears and a razor knife to cut my hides.For the strap I would use gator sewn to a piece of leather probably no less than 3-4 oz. Now for the gator, that size of gator will be tough to use the back for a purse.The back spikes are probably to big for it. You might be able to use some of the back near the head where they are a little smaller.I also wouldn't do a panel on the bottom, just a heavier piece of leather. The sides and belly work very well are nice and soft.Save the knobby back for a gun case or something. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions and I will try to walk you thru it. here's a couple of my inlay's to give you a better idea.this one is some gator belly skin this one is a small croc back Hope this helps bud

Sandy made this from scratch as he does many of his stamps.He uses long stainless hex head bolts 1/4"-5/16" with at least a 4" shank.Shape with files and sanders.Dave Not a good pic just a scan, but it shows some of Sandy's carving and tooling skills in a sheath he gifted me.

Thanks,A mule'sfoot would work, but my friend and mentor Sandy Morrissey made my stamp for this.Dave Here is the back side Here is the stamp

Charley, looked to see if I had anything closer.Try this, a little better to see.Dave

Well it is always a concern to me, because details like this are what should be expected in a professionally done project.It shouldn't matter if its just a mag holder.It's all in the details my friend.Dave

I have been doing virtually nothing but inlays lately so I faked it on this one and did a Faux snakeskin, all tooled.Hope you like it.Dave

This is a punching setup I built for my drill press.The table is made from aluminum and covered with UHMW a very slick plastic. I used boards with notches(for the belt loops) to punch on and the plastic allows for easy movement. I punch using various size drill bits with sharpened shanks and the drill press running. I modified this arbor press for putting my makers mark on my knives and sheaths. I just milled a slot in the ram and tapped a couple of holes for set screws. My mentor and friend Sandy Morrissey made this stamp for me while showing me his technique for tooling faux snakeskin inlays. This is a sheath done using this stamp and technique Hope you like everything.Dave

Your welcome guys, if you have any problems , shoot me a PM.Dave

Another way to cover the snap, if not lining is to punch your hole. Then dig out your skiver and skive a flap from the bottom keeping the top of the flap intact.This can also be done with a knife.install your snap and glue the flap back down over it and clean excess glue off.You don't need a big flap either just thin enough to cover the snap.Since I line most things or do inlays I don't run into this much anymore but it works.Dave

That looks great Darryl. I knew you would get, and I know that one sure is stout.Keep up the good work. Dave ps:your welcome

Inlays are about 90% of my work. First you are correct, you will need two layers of leather.Depending on the look you wish to acheive and the intended use of the part will determine the thickness of the two layers. Both layers can be the same, or thick base and thin top, or thin base and thick top.Typically for a sheath say, I will use like 4-5oz for the base and 3-4 oz for the top, and the last shoulder holster I made, I used two layers of 7-8 oz. I also glue both layers back to back so the top grain is always showing.This makes for nice linings in sheaths and holsters. Design your "window" , remembering to allow for the stitch line and any tooling. Cut out the window and save the cutout.I then finish the edge of the window at this point,dyeing and burnishing. Lay the top piece on the base and mark where the window is located. Determine if you will be padding your inlay. Inlay padding can be your cutout( trimmed down accordingly), foam, suede,etc.I normally use suede or foam.Padding looks good on most of the thinner skins, but really doesn't work well at all on skins like stingray as its just to hard. If you are using padding, go ahead and glue it to the base where marked.I like my skin to be about 3/8"-1/2" larger than the window, then cut and glue to the base. Position and glue your top piece to the base and stitch around your window.This is typically done with a smaller thread and higher TPI count, but you can use the same thread if it's all you have.Then proceed with your normal construction of your project.Hope this helps.Dave

Great looking holster Ray.Dave

I have done this a few times but always warn against a poor fit.It helps if you can get accurate measurements and some pics, but the best is having the knife in your hands.Dave

I always use two layers usually 7-8 oz outside and 3-4 oz inside with the flesh sides glued together.I prefer having the top grain against the gun. Also I like to do inlays so two layers are needed anyway.Dave

Thanks , nothing special this time just a simple belt loop.Dave

Thank you all. Jeff, the top edge straightened out a little as I glued it up which was what I was hoping for as this is the first time I tried this method.I also glued some filler pieces in the low areas.A bit more work than I liked but I think it turned out well enough for me to do some more like this.Dave

Well, you can gouge stitching channels on the inside too. Or you can line it after stitching. Have done both and it works great.Dave

Just finished this holster for another forum.I made it for a Glock 19. I molded the inner liner and sewed in the sight rails.I then carved the logo and added a little color (forum's color)with the green rayskin to the outer layer and the finished it off with lacing.Dave

Thats a fun little gun and a great holster.Dave

Just finished this one for my new Ruger Mark II. It is inlaid with Ostrich leg. Still need to make a multiple mag pouch(have 6 extra mags) and make some new cocobolo grips for the Ruger. Dave

I get mine from here http://ostrichmarket.com/ .Good people, huge supply.Dave

If you don't mind me asking why are you looking for the faux stuff instead of the real deal?Dave

Here's one of my hog knives.It has the same blade length and while I'm a sheathmaker I had my friend Mt.Mike Bartol make this one. This design holds up well in the field and has been tested many times. Dave

Thanks guys.I am just glad the customer didn't want a "correct" sheath or I would have to learn all that and be a geek too .Dave

Will do, thank you.Dave