DCKNIVES

Very nicely done.Dave

Just finished these up. Hope you like them.Dave This one is for a Lucas Burnley knife. I tried to keep this one simple so no tooling, just lined and inlaid with Rayskin. This one is for an Alan Folts dagger. Tooled, lined, inlaid with Alligator belly.I carved the concho out of Ivory

I was told by the owner they only sell to dealers/distributors ,so I had planned on a distributorship. And yes I think I would be able to offer cheaper prices.Dave

I was asked this by a customer awhile back for one of my sheaths.I tried everyway I could think of and still couldn't make it look right or even make it work at all.I ended up just using a contrasting color lace to show off better.I hope somebody that has done can ring in. Dave

Awhile back, I posted about if there would be any interest if I was to become a Blue Gun dealer.I only got like one reply. I work next to the manufacturer and have spoken with the owner. My intention since I have no shipping costs on my end was to give forum members a good discount on them. The problem is that the initial cost to become a distributor is costly to me and without any support here, I couldn't justify it at the time. However, I am still considering it as my holster business is increasing as well, but it may take a bit.Dave

This is the place I have been using for Florida gator, and they have a bunch more stuff as well.Dave http://ostrichmarket.com/

Regis, looks like a good assortment.I know what you mean about wanting to buy more. I just hooked up with a new exotic distributor here in Melbourne.He buys in huge quantities and every trip there is like agony.Happy inlays, my friend. Dave

Thanks guys.Troy,nice seeing a local here. That rattler is some good Florida stock. Dave

Thats some very nice carving and should raise some good bucks. Dave

Here's a few headed to the Blade Show in Atlanta.I hope you like them.Dave This one uses Tejus Lizard for the inlay This one is laced and has a Ostrich leg skin inlay This one is laced also and has Eastern Diamondback Rattlesnake for the inlay

That same stamping can be used to simulate snakeskin as well with some additional shading with another dye or two.Sandy Morrissey made me a stamp(similar to a mule foot) to use for this as he employ's this technique often.Dave Here is an example with a rifle sling, cheek piece and knife sheath in a faux snake pattern.

In sheaths there are usually two schools of thought, those who dip and those who don't. I think you will find most pro sheathmakers do not use the dip/beeswax mixture, mostly for the results you got. If the leather is of good quality and properly cased it should harden fine. For finishes I, myself typically use Fiebings Leather Sheen, but Tan-kote and Bag-kote work well also.I also like my mentor do the inside of the sheath as well before stitching. I hope this helps. Dave

Thanks for the kind words Tim. Not sure what you mean by resin for the inlay.The turquoise I use is a reconstituted product.Basically they take stones like turquoise and lapis, to name a few and mix them with a polyester resin. this allows my to machine it without the use of lapidary equipment.It is available from most knifemaking supply companies.As far as the inlay no glues , epoxies or resins were used.I glue the sheath up like normal without the collar and insert the knife.I then took the turquoise piece and shaped the back to match the contour of the sheath, using my Dremel. I then ground the sides leaving a lip at the base and a taper on the sides. After polishing, using sandpaper and a buffer, I then make the collar cutting a hole just a little larger than the top of the inlaid piece. It is then dampened and I insert the piece into the collar and wrap the collar around the sheath gluing only near the stitch lines, then stitch up sheath.This allows it to float somewhat and reduces breakageand popouts. I hope somewhere in here I answered your question. Good luck my friend. Dave

It's been awhile but like Tazzman, I did mine in a sheath.Dave

Thanks Ken,I love seeing your work as well.Dave

Just finished these up for another knifemaker. All are crossdraw's and are tooled and inlayed with various skins. Dave

Since inlays are about 95% of my sheathwork,I'll try to help you out. I give you the quick and basic version. For pouch sheaths, you'll need two layers of leather, an inner and outer and your inlay material. You can go with either two equal weight layers or a thicker inner layer and a thinner out layer. On smaller knives and folder sheaths I use two equal weight layers. Anyways, cut an opening in the outer layer and use that to determine the part of the inlay you want shown. Before gluing the inlay to the inner layer, dertermine if you wish to put padding underneath it( any number of things can be used suede, the piece you cutout for the opening trrimmed down a tad, foam ) or leave it flat. On some skins I prefer flat.Glue up inlay, then glue the outer layer to the inner layer only gluing the area on the inlay side of the sheath. Layout your stitch line around the opening and stitch it up.Dampen your crease line and start folding the backside over but do not glue yet. Once folded both layers can be glued, trimmed, and the belt loop and welt can be added then glue up and finish assembly.A bit simplified but that is the basics. For a sandwich style sheath you will have another layer, first the back, welt, top layer inlay then outer layer. If you have any questions feel free to contact me.Good luck. Dave

Have to agree with everybody, as I do alot of this style on my sheaths. Round your edges a bit,at least a good bevel and move your hole spacing closer. Also using a different color will makes that stand out more. Here's a few of mine for examples.Dave

80's and sunny here. Dave

Well, here are some pics of mine. Keep in mind I am also a knifemaker, but use alot of tools for both. Dave

Sorry, it took me a bit. Dave

I agree with the others, use a little heavier weight like 5-7. 2-3 is a little thin for nice tooling and will probably stretch a little more as well. Dave

Butch, I don't have any specific patterns as I custom make each one to the knife. Having said that I have a few styles that I usually just modify to fit the need. Dave This version is for a Strider Knife.Simple pouch, slightly canted. The belt loop is glued on the back then opened and sewn high up on the pouch then closed and sewn along with the main stitch line. If you not tooling the front or doing an inlay you can wrap the belt loop over the top and sew both ends along the main stitch line, just another way. If you want a more secure way than the standard pouch you can try this type of retention. This style works best with knives with a small single guard or knives with a big finger cutout. This one I put the belt loop on the bottom so it could rest better in the small of the back( the customer wanted it for concealment) and show less under a shirt.

Jeff, those are sweet. Great job. Dave

Thanks. Warren, the handle is Mexican Bocote and the bolsters are Water Buffalo horn.The friction folder style has been around for hundreds of years. This style is basically non-locking except for your thumb and the friction part is how tight the pivot is.With all the fancy locking folders these days you don't see many friction folders but I have always liked making them and they sell well.I do more out of deer antler which is somewhat more traditional.Dave like this