DCKNIVES

not bad, but I agree with the others bevel the inside of the basketweave, and tool around the outside.I would also move you stitch line farther to the outside. The edges are something alot of collectors look at so they need to be finished as well as you can.While not necessary, I absolutely dislike seeing undyed and unfinished leather so I dye and finish all surfaces inside the sheath and inside the beltloop, JMHO.I would also lose the rivets as they are not needed. So just a few cosmetic things but your well on your way.Dave

The post is probably a tad too long for your 8 oz. Just shorten them up as needed.I use my belt sander but a file would work or snip them off and restraighten them with some pliers.Just don't don't take off too much and watch how you strike the setter so you keep it straight.Dave

Thank you, it is appreciated.Dave

Just finished this one.My customer bought it at the Guild Show from a maker named Pridgen.Nice folder, damascus and mammoth ivory, very big.The sheath is inlaid in Rattlesnake and is lined with deerskin.Dave

Well, I'll be the odd man out.Working in small shops and my garage my whole life has given me an appreciation for being efficient.Since it will be in the center of the room my thoughts would be to have a bench that is somewhat mobile. I would look into a couple of roll-away tool box bottom cabinets and attach your top to them with clamps or bolt them together.Additional cabinets and add-ons can be added using thumb screws.The roll-aways have brakes to keep it in place and will offer alot of storage room.I use a couple for my knife and leather supplies and love them, and should I need to move them I can easily. Just a thought.Dave

Jarl, I know your new but I have to agree with Luke try the inverted carving.Making a stamp is not really cheap and if you do this enough you will be asked to do alot of designs so are you going to get a stamp everytime. Size your picture on the computer and you can do one or many. Once you get the hang of it, it goes very quickly.I do this all the time, and my customers love it and it looks more professional.Dave

Beautiful work Tina. I love everything about it and the carving looks fantastic.Dave

Due to my work schedule, I don't think I would be able to participate, but If I can be of assistance I would help.I do the Melbourne Gun show on occassion and I have a large Exotic hide distributor by my shop.I hope you all get a bunch.Dave

Funny, my wife likes my beard and does all the trimming.She said if I cut my beard shes cuts her very long hair.Dave

That turned out real well Darryl.Like the way you did the letter.Keep up the good work.Dave

Well I've had a full beard and ponytail since about '72 but I have always worked in "blue collar" jobs.Trimmed nicely I would think you would be good anywhere except where it might be dangerous.A group of us sheathmakers got together at the Blade Show in Atlanta this year and we got many fun comments about the connection between having hairy faces and working leather.Dave That's me in the black hat and shirt 2nd from the right

Max, when I do mine, I dye and seal it the same as the outside with Fiebings Leather Sheen. When I line with deerskin or pigskin I use it naturally.Dave

Hi Rob didn't mean to post and run, but had to eat and had a customer come pickup his stuff.Now I can help you with a few tips.Not knowing your skill level, I will be basic.Layout your window to be stamped, and allow for your border stamping.I do the border first then lightly mark some reference lines the whole length about 1/2" apart.They will help you to keep the tooling straight, but since you are imitating a real snake, don't worry about being too straight as nature is very seldom symetrical.I find it easier to start at the bottom and go up, try some on some scrap and see which is easier for you.Remember to do partial stamps near the edges, tilting forward,back, and to the side to fill in.If you are doing a smooth border make sure you bevel the inside edge, as it looks much better.Keep it damp enough to get even impressions the whole length. Now , decide which snake pattern and colors you wish to use.I dye the main lighter color first then when dry, apply the darker color with a good quality brush. When done I apply Fiebings Leather Sheen over the tooled area then when dry apply Hi-lighter and wipe off.Hope this helps. glad you liked the pics.Dave

I do quite a few projects with that pattern. I use a homemade stamp similar to a mulefoot.Dave

Love it Jeff. exceptional work bud.Dave

If you don't mind me asking what part of Florida are you in,and how much are you looking to get? Dave

Max, you may love the look and feel as do I ,but you'll curse working with it. It can be a pain at times. The smaller skins are not too bad but the larger skins are just a pain to cut and sew.Have some good shears ready.Other than that it works like any other skin.Dave

Very nicely done brother.Dave

Thanks everyone and Srigs,if you have any questions ,please feel to contact me.Dave

Thanks everyone. Yes it is a Mark II,target model with 4 1/2" barrel.Dave

Ok, this is what I do.I also do sheaths and holsters primarily.I sharpen the shank end of various size drill bits and chuck them upside down.Very smooth and little flex. I also do alot of lacing, hence the reason for multiple sizes. A 1/16" should be good for standard thread.It will help you to cut up some wood and notch it for belt loops, as it makes for a very flat surface to punch into.Dave here's my setup

Never had to try it on oil but I use Oxalic Acid, better known as Wood Bleach on alot of my stuff.I know it will remove fingerprints and blood (I'm not telling, lol).Dave

Thanks, Busse Knives is a production company.They make some pretty serious users.I also do leatherwork for makers, not just my stuff.Keeps me hopping along with my day job.Dave

Here's two I just finished.I hope you like them. Dave The first is for a Busse knife and is inlaid in Eastern Diamondback Rattlesnake The second one is for a Rodney Rogers Knife( an absolute beauty) and is inlaid in Stingray

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