DCKNIVES

Since I make knives as well as sheaths and holsters, I have five sanders( still not enough,lol). I have two that get alot of leather, one is my big Burr-King which sees the most use because it's Variable speed and slows down fine for leather.The other is a small wheel sander I built, that uses 1/2" and 1" contact wheels for small radius's.Now , the Burr-King is very pricey for a small leather shop, but sure helps speed things up. The small wheel sander I built for about $250.00.Dave My Burr-King My small wheel

Looks good, clean and simple. One thing I would change is your belt loop stitching.I may be wrong as I did not see the back but the double set of horizontal stitchlines look like beltloop to me.Horizontal stitchlines like that really weaken the loop and can result in the dreaded zipper effect and tear out.You would be better to round the ends of the belt loop and do your stitching in a "U" pattern.Dave

I work with motors everyday.Take the cover off the junction box on the motor and look either on the nameplate or inside the cover you just removed.It should tell you which wires to tie together to get 110 volts.Many single phase motors are wired for either 110v 0r 220 v.Dave

Thanks Max, on the sheath I used Feibings Light brown and finished it with Griffin liquid shoe polish, just something new I have been playing with. So far I like it.Dave

My customer ordered this holster for a Ruger Mark II (I have one which made it easy).It is inlayed in Ostrich legskin.The knife was made by a make named Danbo and I made the sheath using Nile Crocodile.Dave

Lui, you might consider contacting Ostrich market. They are a Distributor of exotic hides here in Melbourne.Henry can set you up asa dealer.Good luck on your venture.Dave

Cowboy ,I have a bunch but nothing near that size, as I could do two sheaths with that size.I suggest contacting Ostrich Market as they sell scraps at thier E-bay store.Dave

A company that sells chemicals without offering an MSDS sheet won't be in business long.I have never heard of that either.It should have come with the product.Dave

Here's a tutorial that will help some for a pouch style sheath Visit My Website.Not my site as the the software says but it should help.If you have any specific questions contact me and I can help you.Sheaths and holsters are my main work.Dave

Well, I'll throw my two cents in. I primarily use the Basketweave pattern in both 3/32" and 1/8". I will agree that with single layer or a double layer of say 6 oz. the 8X rule is pretty good. The problem that most of us that do sheaths and holsters have is that our edges can be very thick (3/8"-5/8" is pretty common).I have found for most of my stuff that 12X is closer to the norm. Also the edges are finished, glued, sanded, and burnished prior to lacing so the standard method of splicing won't work.So ,with that in mind I generally use one piece of lace.To help with the ragged edge syndrome I use a damp sponge to keep the lace clean and neat.If I am doing lace that is already dyed I will use beeswax instead of water.I would love to hear any other of methods of splicing that will look seamless.Dave

That looks great bud.Dave

Marlon,I do auto's all the time.I just use one of my standard folder patterns for most.On one like yours, I would insert the knife front first and leave the safety at the top.Dave one of my standard patterns

That was the same answer I got and I work across the street from them and talked to the owner who in our shop buying racking.They are like $43.50 MSRP.Dave

Hi Mike, another Floridian here, just the other coast.I am a knifemaker as well and do sheaths for myself and other makers.welcome and If I can help let me know.Dave

For whether it should be descaled or not is personal preference.My buddy Paul Long descales his and I usually don't.The reason I don't is because I like the texture, but the trade off is scales on a rattlesnake get brittle and if hit will flake off, if not treated.I apply many layers of Leather Sheen over my rattlesnake skins.FYI, most species don't have this issue and have smooth skins.The Glycerin I use is in liquid form and is available in most groceries and drug stores.For washing I just use something like Dawn and some warm water.As far as gunk, clean it off with tweeezers and a knife if need be then wash.I do warn you that this is not the most fun thing to do and it does smell pretty rank if your not use to it.Very little bothers me anymore, but my wife isn't too thrilled on skinning day. Dave

Lol, I second doing it outside.The wife isn't too keen on snakes, until after they are tanned and ready for use.Good video, thats pretty much how I do it too.Sorry can't help you on kits, I tan mine using a solution taught to me by a Taxidermist.I use a solution of 1/3 denatured alcohol,1/3 acetone and 1/3 glycerin.After thoroughly washing and drying the hide, I stake it out and apply the solution numerous times, then hang to air out and dry.I then sprinkle baby powder on it and roll up and bag for use.good luck.Dave

It mostly depends on the species of snake being used and if it was purchased tanned or is being tanned by you.I use alot of snake ,both purchased and tanned by me.Most purchased snakeskins don't need any real treatment but I use Fiebing's Leather Sheen on everything , so its normal for me.Any fresh skins tanned by you must be treated ,usually many coats of FLS( see above).For glue just about any will work such as contact cement, barge, or like I use Titebond II(water resistant yellow glue).Hope this helps. Dave

I presently belong to about 10 different forums and almost all have tried this and few have succeded without heavy moderation.Most of the forums have done away with political as it causes way too many problems.Politics concerning our chosen field of leather should be welcome because it is a matter of importance to "us".There are plenty of forums for those who love to rant and I do not think this should be one of them.Dave

Welcome bud,another Floridian here and I also work in exotics.Nice work.Dave

Josh,I have been fortunate enough to have a few high-end customers as well.One is an avid hunter and likes horseback at times, when he is not in Africa or somewhere.I have made several shoulder holsters for him and his wife, and have three more on order.For the most part he likes large big bore pistols, so like Shorts said, comfort and adjustability are high on the list.With larger pistols, I usually widen the top straps and run the holster more vertcal. On smaller guns like a Glock say I may run the holster horizontal or at a 45 degree cant.All my high end stuff is fully lined, and usually has an exotic inlay.If it is not a vertical holster I would definately reccommend a strap or thumbbreak of somesort.My two main customers prefer no straps.As far as pricing I charge per order since everthing is one-off, but typically runs from $150 for a relatively plain shoulder holster, to $300-$500 for a full blown custom with inlays,and lacing.And with these guys even the full blown customs get used heavily.Hope this helps bud.Dave here is one I did for a customer's wife for her Ruger MarkII

Try here , they have everything you need and are a distributor which means large volume.Tell them I sent ya.Dave http://ostrichmarket.com/

I have attended many and set up at gun shows and custom knife shows, and have yet to make a leather show.IMO, I would set the show up for leatherworkers and the general public (customers and potential newbies).Companies could also setup booths for demos and sales.Seminars could also be held for those interested.This setup is similar to most custom knife shows, where table holders( makers) can sell thier products as well as attend seminars and buy supplies. I would make sure you location had lodging and food/drink within walking distance, or hold it in a Motel/hotel complex.Having a local pub nearby will keep your table holders happy and they will have a place to meet and greet as well as sell and trade products.As far as table prices, I have seen them range from $60.00 to $1500.00, and I have been to shows ranging from 1 day to 4 days.I would suggest starting small then growing as you see the popularity grow.Advertise in the local papers and trade magazines.Good luck with your venture.Dave

Hey folks, I picked up a couple of very old treadle machines.I was hoping to refurbish them but my workload is too high right now. The first is a Wheeler & Wilson D-9 (serial #24 29398), my closest estimate is about 1898, the second is a Singer B series(serial # B1273102) which places it about 1904.The cabinentry on both is very rough but the cast iron looks decent and the machines look like they can be refurbed. I am looking for $50.00 for both, pickup only.If interested please PM me, and if you need pics I will try to get some this week.thanks.Dave

Finished up a couple of my friction folders and made some new sheaths for them.Dave the sheath is inlaid in Eastern Diamondback Rattler this one is inlaid in Frog skin

You lightly sand the rivets with a 600 grit paper or finer say 1000 grit and it will take the shine down to a satin finish which will patina a little quicker.Dave