DCKNIVES

Holly, they are not hard to tan, but a might smelly.There are some commercial kits out there( reptile tanning ), But I contacted a Taxidermist after getting a batch of rattlesnakes and he gave us his formula.First you must determine where to cut the skin(some snakes such as moccasins have prettier bellies than backs), then cut it, I use a razor knife.Clean all meat particles off it and wash with dishwashing soap and water and hang to dry a bit.When dry I layout and pin down onto cardboard.After mixing the formula(1/3 Acetone,1/3 Denatured alcohol, and 1/3 Glycerin) I lberally apply several coats and let dry.Flip over hide and repeat.after airing out and drying I powder the skins with babypowder and roll up and store in a ziplock storage bag till needed.Just dampen to wipe off babypowder.Dave

I do mine like Russ.I just buy the foam inserts and make a leather wrap,sometimes sewn but usually just a couple of snaps.Dave this is one I did many years ago with a cobra inlay I have tried the other method of everything built in and while good, it dosen't last with a good drinker,lol. this way you can change out the inserts easily

I use manila folders for my templates for the holsters and sheaths.For larger stuff use poster board.Dave

When I do sheaths and holsters, I always put my mark on the beltloop.I have a small mark that I use on my knives , only 1/16" lettering.On the front like spur straps or anything else just tool a decorative border around a small area, off in a corner and apply your stamp.I see it no different than a painting as long as you can make it flow.Dave

Thanks, and I used some epoxy as I assembled them.Dave

This is where I get mine,Ostrich Market a full covering might be a problem though.The last time I was over there he had some large Anaconda skins.Dave

Great looking bud, but I agree with Max on the flap.Dave

Thanks everyone. Max, yes I use a full piece, fully glued and it is sewn around the inlay only, and of course on the side.I only do stitching where the stresses are.On your question about the Wildey, they are not real common but this guy has three, this one and one with a 10" barrel and another with a 14" barrel.Dave

This one was a tough one, part due to size and part due to customer wishes.Dave Specs Belt-4" x 56" Ranger style belt w/2" billets, two layers of 10 oz w/ 2 inlays of croc Holster-lining is 8oz and outside is 10 oz, two croc inlays, rare earth magnet retention on flap Belt loop,extra ammo pouch,double mag pouch, and sheath all inlayed in croc for a total of 10 inlay's all handstitched The gun for this, Wildey .45 winmag (remember Charles Bronson in Death Wish 3)

I may get about 25%, but all my work is custom.I think many are interested, but have no idea of the cost, and this economy is sure not helping.The funny thing is in the custom sheath world I am in the upper price range, but come over here and see stuff similar in materials and construction techniques from other areas and I am priced very low.Dave

Well, the antelope antlers can be used for small knife handles, and they also make great burnishers.I use antlers for both things.Another thing besides buttons is to cut and drill them for conchos, you could do that with the horn.Dave

Very simply at the time you are stropping you already have a reasonably sharp obect against a moving belt, any issue at that time can result in pain.I know several knifemakers who have been cut when a belt breaks.Even the purchased and professionally made belts break, usually at the seam.I have had several break on my over the years and while I escaped injury from the knife, I did get some scrapes from the belts,and the sound of a larger belt like I use breaking, is like a gunshot.Feel free to try but I would have felt bad for not warning you of the inherent dangers.I don't know what glue they use but I suspect good Barge cement might be fine,with said warning.Dave

Mike, for doing a makers mark, I would suggest using your own name, instead of Twin Oaks. This is a common question in the custom knife industry where makers want logos or company names.Most usually end up using their names.You want users to remember your name and a company or symbol.I use D.Cole onall my knives and leather goods. Just my thoughts brother.Dave

Most of my work is sheaths and holsters and when I do snakeskins I usually use a finish coat of Leather Sheen.My personal preference for scales is to leave them on especially rattlesnakes but those require multiple coats of Leather Sheen to protect them.You can try Glycerin for softening up the tounge, I use it in the process for tanning snakeskins and it does a great job in softening the skins.I haven't tried changing colors so sorry no help there. Dave you can also get exotics here Ostrich Market

Sorry but making sanding belts is pretty much futile and dangerous, but if you look here Jantz you can purchase one and its alot safer. I have one in a larger size for one of my sanders and they work good. I load mine with white rouge first.Dave

Nice stuff,I use alot of Water Buffalo horn and Sambar stag, for my knives and some for sheathwork.Never made a complete sheath out of it yet, mostly I use it for making concho's.I also use some ivory and mammoth ivory for the same thing.But Water Buffalo is very fun to work and shines up beautifully.Dave

Ian, I presently have 5 sanders and am building one more, but I am also a knifemaker.Several of my sanders are used daily for leather too, but the big issue of using a sander on leather is speed.Most store bought sanders are too fast to be good for leather and you have to use a light touch to keep from burning the leather.Variable speed is the way to go, but is more pricey.Step pulleys are the least expensive way to VS or the VSD (variable speed drive)the more expensive but better way.If you google up Coote grinders, you see a very good unit that can be configured with either pulleys or VSD, probably about $750, or you can go up to a Burr-King( mine cost $2500).Both are probably more than most leatherworkers will spend but I can turn down the speed on my BK to a crawl and it really speeds up my leather work.You can see my grinders on my webpage.Let me know if I can help.Dave

Thanks for the info Bob.Johanna, thank you very much, that gallery is amazing.Dave

Thanks for the help Kate.Got to finish up some stuff and then I will order it.I still would like to see what Wayne added, since attending his class is all but impossible for me.Dave

Thanks Kate, that's a pretty cool gadget, but a might pricey. RDB brother, thanks. Did a search here, sorry I never got to see his work before, amazing.I couldn't find the video, and I read that Wayne Christensen is now teaching Billy's method.I haven't found a way to get ahold of him yet either, but still looking.I am very interested in seeing how it's done, as my wife did some experimenting and was able to do it and I used the images to make a few sheaths ( see below).I would like to see how the methods compare or what I need to change. Added to traditional carving and tooling, I think it makes a very cool presentation.Dave

I get asked alot to do this instead of carving.I did a search here and didn't find much info.Has anyone tried it with sucess.Thanks .Dave

My wife and I just had our first experience with acyrlic paints. We did a batch of leather roses and used some acrylic paints we got from Wally world.Then covered them with Leather Sheen. I thought they turned out well and the finish seems very durable.Dave

Looks great Jeff. Boy, that's alot of cant, 99% of my customers want zero cant( mostly LEO's).Dave

Carl, Try here, Ostrich Market. They are my distributor and sell small pieces.Dave

I don't have either one ,but Ring's doesn't do any Keltec's unless they just started .Not listed in the product list.Dave