DCKNIVES

My wife and I both carry Glock 19's. They are virtually indestructable and very reliable,but I would recommend a revolver, something like a S&W 38.Less to learn and very reliable.Good stopping power as well, though not as many shots as a semi-auto.Dave

Well being a knifemaker as well as a leatherworker, I am fortunate to have a Variable Speed Burr-King belt sander.I highly recommend getting a VS if you can afford it. Its great for sheath and holster edges, like Rayban said 4-6 layers of leather are hard to get perfect without sanding.Dave

Welcome Panhead.Dave

Yes the whole hide and the babypowder soaks up any moisture and softens it.Helps with odors as well.Dave

I have done quite a few snakes.My method is as follows, Get a big bucket and wash the hide with dishwashing liquid (like Dawn), roll out to dry and thoroughly clean up any loose pieces and any meat.When dry I roll them out on some cardboard and tack down the sides.I then make a mixture of 1/3 Acetone, 1/3 Denatured alcohol, and 1/3 Glycerin.I liberally paint the mixture on the hide.I usually do this a couple of times.Then when dry flip the hide over and repeat. The next step is to hang the skin up to dry thoroughly and air out the odor.The final step is then to roll out the hide again flesh side up and coat liberally with baby powder.I then roll it up and place the hide in a Zip-lock bag till its time to use.Hope this helps.Dave here's some I did

Go here, it's where I get mine.Great products and speedy service.Tell em I sent ya.Dave Visit My Website Not my site , just the way the software works here

I agree with the others ,I would not make a fixed blade sheath without a welt. Its just not safe for the user or the sheath. Now as to the snap, for me its easy since the majority of my sheaths are inlays and have two layers, so the snap is between the layers. But for single layer sheaths, you can cover the snap with a thin piece of suede, or take a razor knife and cut a thin flap on the inside leaving the side towards the top secured, lift up flap and mount your snap the glue flap back down over it. Dave you can also do a pouch style like this and mold the sheath to the knife This style uses a snap retention.

On small sheaths I use 2-3 oz on the inside and 5-6oz on the outside.On larger sheaths and holsters I usually use 5-6 oz both sides. I always glue the hides flesh to flesh.Your embossed hide should glue well with contact cement, besides you should be sewing around your inlay.Dave

Peter, I do alot of different types on mine and others knives, so feel free to look at my site.Dave

You can right to the manufacturer and find whose close or maybe they can help.Dave Ring's Bluegun site Visit My Website

I think the problem Max is having is the same all of us doing knife sheaths have.When we make the sheath body it is glued and the edges finished before lacing and sewing are started, so coming between the layers as shown in the book are useless.I too get to the end and and run it under the previous lacing and cutoff an inch back or so.That's why it also makes splicing so difficult on a sheath or holster.Dave

Glad to hear it Josh.I 'll be glad to help when I can, but for starters ,here's a list of places to get your needs.Dave Not my site but will work. Visit My Website

This is my favorite, a variety of antlers in various shapes and sizes.Dave

I use quite a bit of stingray, but like Randy I prefer to do inlays.Now if your doing an overlay, forget the black plastic edge.Glue your skin down securely and clamp well.Now I have a varible speed belt sander that makes this very quick, but it can be done carefully with a Dremel. sand the edge down to even and then slightly round over the edge.If needed finish with handsanding down to at least 400 grit.At this point I dampen the edge and hand burnish with an antler tip(substitute as needed).I then dye the edge and burnish again then apply final sealer.For sew rayskin, I use a drillpress(I sharpen the shank of a small drill bit, reverse chuck it, and punch my holes with the press running,much cleaner than drilling.)for making my holes the sew as normal.Like I said earlier, I find inlays much more attractive (even though more work required) and about 99% of my work is inlays.I even do full inlays on my holsters.Dave Here's a couple of examples, Here's a sheath with stingray And while not stingray but croc it shows a holster with a full inlay

Hi Mike,good to see another Floridian on here.I have a friend that went to Alafia, and I was supposed to go and do some shooting but my plans fell through.He said a great time was had by all.Don't know if you heard about Billy Lane, he killed a guy while driving drunk and now his shop is shutdown(I drive by it daily) and he goes on trial Monday. Your work looks great bud.Dave

Glad you showed up brother.You'll like it here, serious talent and great folks.Dave

Tina, where do I find the process for doing two color lacing.I really want to try this as I do alot of lacing.Dave

This is always been a pet peeve of mine.I hate when I see a nicely done sheath or holster or to see raw leather on the inside or under the belt loop.It looks so unfinished and unprofessional to me.My mentor taught me to dye and seal everything.Dave

Looks great my friend, nice carving.Dave

I have seen that design(or one similar) on alot a motorcycle parts. Might try West Coast Choppers.Dave

I don't know if your looking for custom made knives, but I have a very good friend that makes period pieces.Dave Try Here http://jmcknives.blademakers.com/

This sounds like a great idea.Dave

Just for safety sake, I wouldn't recommend using Snakewood for such a project.Besides being expensive, it is very prone to cracking and splitting, thus being very dangerous on moving machinery.Lignum Vitae or Cocobolo would be much better choices.Dave

I build custom machinery by day(electrical, machining, welding) and knifemaker/leatherworker the rest of the time.Drac, you average two more hours sleep than I do,lol.Dave

Looks great Corey.Keep it up bud.Dave