DCKNIVES

I use the round braid on all my sheaths and holsters.It's about the only way to cover that thick of an edge. Dave

Thanks.Bobby ,still residing in NC for now.ABN , strictly for show, but I could imagine it being carried at a Trekkie convention or something like that.Dave

Thanks Ray.Dave

This was the project I was looking for a swivel frog.My friend and fellow knifemaker Alan Folts calls this his "Weapon of Mass Destruction".The handle is Carbon fiber and is 32" long with the 440C blade 18".Our intent was to allow the scabbard to swivel for easily withdrawing the WMD.The scabbard is inlaid in Caimen,with an Ivory concho and the swivel was built into the frog and locked by a retention strap.I also added a small clip-on baldric.We had alot of fun on this collaboration.Dave The "WMD"

I usually buy mine already dyed in my most popular colors, which are black, dark brown, and tan.I only buy bright colors like red,or green on special orders and that is priced higher so I can recover the cost of having those colors on hand.Dave

I have used razor knives ,shears ,tinsnips but by far the best and fastest way I have found is my steel cutting bandsaw.Cuts it like butter and as fast as you push it, then over to my belt sander to clean up the edge.Slick as a whistle.Dave

I'll second what Bob said. Ostrich Market, They are close to me and I do some holster and sheath work for them.You can see some of Bob's and my work on there.Dave

Well first meat or not, you should always seal the inside of your sheaths.But when it comes to meat handling, you should NEVER put uncleaned knives in and out of sheaths.Any bacteria buildup in the sheath will be taken right back to the meat being cut, bad enough pre-cooked but could be deadly when serving the meat.Dave

Patents for the small guy are essentially useless.First you'll spend $3000-$10,000 in legal fees and patent searches, then if you are lucky enough to get one, it's up to you to defend it.Meaning someone across the country copies it, its up to you to get a Federal Attorney and go after the guy in Federal Court in his district, meaning $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.If you have a good idea market it, sell it and run happily to the bank.Dave

I line all my holsters with veg-tan and dye and seal with Fiebings Leather Sheen.That is the way I was taught by my mentor,he's been doing holsters and sheaths for about 60 years.Dave

I have used deerskin and pigskin before, but generally for most things I use thinner veg-tan.For all my CAS sheaths and holsters I use veg-tan.You should stay away from any chrome tanned hides as most CAS stuff is carbon steel and prone to rusting.Dave

Josh, without the gun or replica, I would look at Will Ghormly's "Old West" patterns.I have used these before and they fit very well.Fortunately, old style holsters are not heavily molded like thier new counterparts.I was lucky not long ago to pickup a Great Western 44 Special with a 5 1/2" barrel in a trade for a knife.This has allowed my to do most Old West styles.Good luck.Dave

Justin, try the Ostrich Market, Hank is a friend and has quite a large supply.Dave Ostrich Market

I make many large knives and sheath mine and many others.I have done quite a few crossdraws and small of back designs.The main problem I have with edge up designs is not so much arm interference but it puts your hand in the wrong position for a good and quick draw.Even in a shoulder type system like the "Vorpal" is , it is still necessary to get the proper grip before extracting the knife.I have seen nuerous examples of quality designed shoulder systems and the only reason the "Vorpal" is a somewhat unique sheath is that its made with Kydex , but the draw is still edge forward allowing proper grip.It also has an open front which is somewhat ok for kydex but highly questionable for leather.Dave

Thanks Chuck, will do.Dave

Thanks, that is one of the ideas I was thinking about ,but I my want something more substantial.Dave here's a pic of the beast,

Has anyone seen or made a swivel frog.I have a custom order for a very unique custom weapon.I'll get a pic later when I recieve it.It has an 18"curved blade with a 30" carbon fiber handle. The customer wants to belt mount it and swivel forward to draw.I will also be adding a Baldric to this.Thanks.Dave

Welcome, nice to see another Floridian here.Dave

I start with overall design, and some things depends on whether or not the gun is there or not( fit and retention).I then look at dyeing, stitching and edges.One of my personal things things or pet peeve is finishing of the inside and underside of belt loops and such.I believe all surfaces should be dyed and sealed.I just think it looks more professional and is the way my mentor taught me. I also look at the art side of it,some makers are very creative with unique designs,awesome embellishments and as long as the form,fit and function are maintained I love it.Dave

First the quality of your tooling and stitching look good. IMO your wings on the pancake holster are way too wide and should be brought in at least an inch maybe more.I also think both holsters are way too shallow for the guns, especially without a retention strap.I typically have the gun all the way covered up to the rear sight. I usually line my holsters, but I always dye and seal the inside, as I never like seeing raw leather on a finished project.Hope this helps.Dave here's two of mine showing what I think the depth of the gun should be

Ostrich market I use alot of stingray, and my supplier "Ostrich Market" gets it from Thailand.Like said the big stuff is thick and hard to use but I really like the small pieces, and I find the quality very good.Dave

Just made this one for my new Great Western 44.Dave

While I much prefer inlay's to full overlays,I will say that looks really good.Dave

John brother , that is awesome.Dave

Josh, that looks fantastic.I bet that will keep ya warm on a cold night, and look great too.Dave