DCKNIVES

A fellow knifemaker has this machine and wants to put it my shop for me to make sheaths for him, Now I have never used one, and from what I understand he hasn't used one either.Anyone have any info on this machine or where I might look? I will not have access to the machine for at least a week to get any numbers.Thanks.Dave

Never heard of Galls, will have to check. The Aluminum ones are Duncan's (Duncan's ). If you order fro Botach, you can probably kiss your money goodbye, one of the worst out there.Dave

Ray, I work with antler, horn and born several times a week as a knifemaker, and I probably have more machinery for that task than you do but it is still workable without all that.You will probably at least want to have a Dremel,as you can cut, drill, and polish with one.The Super Glue trick is a good one and works well.You'll want to sand your pieces down to at least 400 grit before polishing and I use a soft flannel wheel with white rouge to bring out the luster. As far as shaping the beads,alot depends on the hole size.For drilling I would cut two pieces of 10 oz leather and use them as soft jaws for your vise then drill with a drill press or hand drill.If you can find a small enough screw and nut to fit the bead ,you can then chuck the screw in your drill press and hand file/sand the bead to shape, a sort of poorman's lathe. It only smells bad to the newbies, you use it as I have for more than 20 years, its like perfume cause it means I am making money,lol.It does keep the wife out of my shop though. Dave

In the Custom Knife world taking deposits is almost taboo, unless expensive materials are required or the knife is something very different and might not be readily sellable to others.I take no deposits on my leatherwork either and have not run into any problems at all.I have used the Forums to sell holsters,slings and knives many many times and I have used Craigslist many times with no problems. Like said ,try gun stores, local flea markets, gun shows.Dave

I suppose I just don't see the reason for doing this.The time and materials needed would run over the cost of buying a dummy gun in the first place and you have to comprimise on materials because your not using the materials used in making actual dummy guns.I would be all over it if it was cost effective. I spent thirty years building machinery and could have built most of the machines in my shop, but the time and materials it would have taken cost more than buying new machines and keeping sending out products.Dave

Well mine is a garage but I ahve to since I also am a knifemaker and throw alot of dust and sparks.As said I have the stereo,TV,Computer and beer fridge, but there are numerous things I think you will need.Like Dirtclod said can't have enough power, and lighting.This may require an electrician to make more power available to that room.I personally think one of the most necessary and most overlooked items is a good chair.Don't cheap out here,you will be spending alot of time in it and discomfort will eventually distract you from your work. Set your bench height where you are the most comfortable, not whatever someone says the standard is.I have benches at different heights depending on what I am doing there,may look strange but it works great for me.I would also get a good fire rated metal cabinet for your chemicals ,dyes,etc., especially if your running a business and for insurance reasons.If I think of anything else I'll post again.Good Luck with your adventure.Dave

Luis, since you have a Dremel,I assume you have access to the small abrasive disc's available for them.Stacking several up with a washer in between each wheel would give you even lines.I haven't tried this for tooling before but stack disc's all the time for my friction folder knives.Dave

I am with that Grumpy ol'Mike(lol),I have handsewn for about 20 years besides that alot of my holsters are laced. Adult beveranges do make it go better.Dave

I haven't been asked to make one in 20 years but I have a few pics of them.Dave The first two are by my mentor Sandy Morrissey, the other two I just saw on the net.

Super looking seat Troy,great carving and lacing all around.Dave

I know I talked with Hank at the Ostrich Market and was going to run over and get some gator but they were packing to go to the show.So stop in and say hi to Hank and Jeanne,they have some neat stuff.Dave

Eric, most folks display this kind of rig but in Cowboy Action Shooting , there are numerous venues From Hollywood B Western style to full on period correct , so depending on which style you shoot, determines the rig. Even if you didn't shoot, you could still play the part by wearing the rigs much like Ren-fair events.It's all about the fun.Dave

Eric, your welcome and glad it helps.The approx. price of Roo lace is about $70 for 25 yds. with Superior leather lace running $33 for 50 yds. with about 6' of lace for a small sheath and about 9' for a big sheath.Dave

George,ideally you should go with the best lace available, which IMO is Kangaroo. But having said that in today's economy I say go with the best you can afford. My situation of losing my day job then going on disability has really affected my purchasing decisions and roo lace is pretty much out unless specified and paid for by my customers.I like Superior cow lace and have done hundreds of projects with it and it holds up fine.Vinyl is good to practice with and for low cost items. Hope this helps.Dave

I do both methods as above quite often, so both do work but the determining factor is what your working on and the type of stone.If it's simply a cabachon, I epoxy the stone to a piece of fiberboard spacer (roughup the mating surfaces real good) and then cut an opening for the cabachon and inlay.The other method I have done with odd shaped stones and recon. stone is to grind a small lip on the stone with a Dremel then cut the opening a bit smaller, wet and mold over the stone.Dave

I wanted to share these rigs made by a friend of mine.He has only been doing leather for several years and his work is great.His name is Terry Morin.Dave and a cool pouch to go with it

Looks great for your first try.I do this all the time and I would recommend using a "Round or Mexican Basketweave pattern" for sheaths and holsters because it covers the edge better.I would also still finish your edges a lilttle better, as if you were stitching because it will look more professional. Keep up the good work, and I have a tutorial on my site under "Knife Info" that might help ya.Dave

Yes ,those are two of my sheaths.You can click on my website and see more if you like and feel free to contact me if you need any help.Dave

I think overall the quality is good, but I'm not crazy about the design.That style is typical of cheaper production knife sheaths and that type of retention strap is good for getting in the way and getting cut. The other problem is with a fat handled knife such as that is unless you wedge out the mouth of the sheath you get the bent belt loop syndrome.My suggestion for that knife would be a full pouch sheath or a modified pouch with strap and use a seperate belt loop.Dave Modified pouch with strap example Full pouch

You can look here,Basketweave tutorial and I also have a photo tutorial on my website under "Knife Info".Just click on my site below.Dave

Well, most folks like to take the scales off prior to inlaying, but I prefer to keep them on most of the time.I use Feibings Leather Sheen and apply about 5-6 coats very liberally.Dave

I would agree, got to be different and unique.Most of the folks there are buying the cheapest holsters available, so to sell anything at a reasonable price you need to have superior quality and be able to show why your product is worth that extra money.I try to cater to the high end crowd , which means I make fewer sales but I do make more money per item.I also try to do a variety of items, holsters,slings, knives,sheaths etc.The good part of Gun shows is they are relatively cheap to setup at and can give you a good local presence.Dave

Just finished this one.Tried some hair on hide for the collar and inlay.Dave

I milled a slot in the ram for my makers stamp and it is secured by two set screws.I use this for my knives and my leather.Dave