DCKNIVES

Yes, I used part of a side for that one.Dave

I have done a few small ones but the last big one was huge. 56" ranger style 4" wide with double 10 oz layers ( per customer request).Dave

Evan, if it helps I have an inlay tutorial on my website under "Knife Info".Dave DC Knives and Leather

See if this will help you two out. My wife and I have been doing these for awhile.Dave

You mentioned drilling, so are you hand drilling or using a drill press? If your hand drilling it will be hard to keep your holes straight, so I would suggest buying a drill press.There can be good deals found for under $100 almost everywhere.Second I would not "Drill" your leather but punch it instead.I sharpen the shank end of various size drill bits and chuck them upside down and punch while the press is running.Your holes will be cleaner and will close up some instead of tearing up the leather.To help keep your holes straight get some 1"x 4" wood pieces about 6"-8" long and cut a notch in it for the clip,belt loop etc.This will keep your stitched edge alot flatter.Do not try and force the hole, ease it through and pull back frequently.Forcing especially on a wedged end will cause the bit to deflect.Hope this helps.Dave

Chris, no problem with making stuff for the fun of it,I do it all the time.I just feel that having to partially open a folding knife to make this work is pointless.You want speed carry an auto or a fixed blade.I gave up carrying a large folder years ago in favor of a fixed blade and would not go back. As for the one armed man, I believe a fixed blade, auto or even a friction folder would work better than a standard folding knife.One of my customers uses a friction folder and has only one arm, and he loves it.Dave

That design has been around since the 70's IIRC, pretty much a novelty and not very practical even somewhat dangerous to the user.Its also illegal in some states.Your work looks pretty good just a gimic design that doesn't work very well.Dave

He had some over there when I was in last month, maybe he is just getting rid of what he has.He sells so much gator that takes up alot of his time and the profit margin is alot better.

I learned this awhile back while attending a gunshow with a LEO friend and another NRA consultant/instructor.We saw a holster like that, and they both coomented that it required a Class III permit, something the dealer didn't have marked or even knew about.So be safe when asked to build certain items.Dave

Just to add another source, Henry at the "Ostrich Market " carries them.Dave

I would agree,any reputable dealer will have the necessary CITES tags as required . If your in doubt as to the animals status contact CITES, US Customs, or the FWC. Like said elephant is relatively abundant from culled animals, even elephant ivory is available.There is a shop just North of me that sells large amounts of ivory it obtains from estate sales and such all pre-ban stuff.One of my customers is going to Africa again and he has purchased two tags to cull two elephants.He told me he was allowed to keep the tusks only.One of the best sources to talk about skins is Henry at "Ostrich Market ", I do alot of work with him and his shop is close to mine so I do get over quite often.Dave

Sniper, I don't do overlays very often ( mostly just don't like them) but I have done them.First , unless your knife is very small I would bump up your leather weight to at least 7-8 0r 8-9 oz if it's say about a 8" blade.That will give you the stiffness required.I would also have the flesh side out to glue to the stingray.Use most any contact cement, 3M or Barge cement.No need to form before gluing as the rayskin will get pulled tight on the outside.Yes I would sew it to the liner. then dye and seal the inside of your sheath, before assembly.Dave

Iron-on can be done.I use Avery Dark T-shirt tranfers.Take your digital image off your computer and print it to the transfer and go.The leather must be dry and blemish free.Afterwards ,multiple coats of Fiebings Leather Sheen will protect it. Beware of copying copyrighted material or trademarks.Dave

In my opinion and that of my mentor who is a Master leathersmith and has been at it for 60 years is that hot waxing is not very good and serves no purpose on sheaths and holsters.If not done properly it can ruin your product. It doesn't look good on embellished items and is way more work than it, than the benefit you get from it. Leather Sheen, and Tan-kote will give a better finish with alot less mess and work.Dave

A wood saw goes a little fast but should work,just find the finest tooth blade you can find. Big tooth blades will try and pull the hide into the machine versus cutting it, so go small and watch your fingers. dave

I agree, you cooked it.Your lucky thats all the damage you got.Toaster ovens are notorious for not having accurate temps so a light touch is needed.Dave

Having thought about this and not thinking that it would work, one thing you might look into is making smaller panels that you can cover with a single hide then trim the outside with wood essentially making an inlay.A small rabbet on each of the trim pieces would allow them to lay flat. It might look pretty good that way.Dave

I work with stingray alot in all various sizes and colors and I don't even remotely think you could make it look seamless.The bigger the hides get the harder it would be as to the size of the nodules and the difficulty cutting them.Also stingray does not have a flat texture from side to side, the center of the back is thicker than the outsides.But if I have not dissuaded you I will tell you the the best cuts I got on my larger hides was using my metal cutting bandsaw with a 18 tooth metal cutting blade.Dave

Sad to see this ,he did some fine work and seemed like a nice young man with alot of potential.RIP.Dave

I am a knifemaker so naturally anything I carry comes under scrutiny, but with the number of variables to lose your tools, I would ship them ahead.I do this for all knife shows I fly to.The majority of motels handle this service and while it costs a bit more it beats replacing everything.I got pulled out and searched in Atlanta due to blocks of exotic wood I was carrying that didn't scan well, and the TSA agent's eyes got real big when he looked into the bag and saw all tthose exotic hides,lol.Still they let me fly.Dave

I agree with Johanna, just keep your work area clean, wash your hands before doing any work.Oxalic acid( also called wood bleach,is available in most home improvement stores) works very well in removing stains,dirt,etc. and is not near as toxic or smelly as acetone.Alcohol is also a good prep, but is only good on some cleaning.Dave

Machine is gone.Thank you.Dave

Thanks, I don't know if this one has a manual or not at this tme.I'll look you up if not.You say it doesn't sew thick stuff, I was told this goes up to 1", but I don't know how reliable that info was.That's why I am getting rid of my 31-15 because it will only do thin stuff.Is there a good source for parts?Dave

Here's a couple of mine.Dave

I have a Singer 31-15 , motor and table, needles and several spools of thread, runs, but I have not used it.I also have a couple of basket case machines ,I'll throw in for free. $50.00 or trade for leather. Pickup only, I will not ship.Dave