Hilly

Thanks, Storm. Yep, this guy chews a lot. That habit is bad enough, let alone the fact that he uses long cut, and puts a lot in his mouth at one time. It took me 5 years before I could look him in the mouth without feeling like I wanted to gag. I was eyeballing those Sam Browne buttons, as I think they're pretty cool. I'm not sure the base is narrow enough though, as the area I have to use it is only a hair over 1/4" wide.

Josh, I had the same question not long ago. Another member here told me that Tandy sells a kit to convert any of their screw back conchos to decorative snaps using this kit and line 24 snaps. They have a big assortment of screw back conchos to choose from.

Thanks, Noc I'll have to give Clay M. in the Rapid City store a call on Monday, and ask about them. I sure hope they're what I need.

I also feel that "You suck" is totally wrong. When I ask for a crititque, I'm hoping someone will point out things that they like, as well as things I can improve on. You can't correct things unless you know what it is you're doing wrong, and sometimes you need to see it through other people's eyes. I thank you Clay B., for pointing out things the way that you did, and I will never take offense at constructive criticism. You don't need to be afraid of being brutally honest with me. I must add that I have many, MANY times seen work posted that I thought was awesome, and never said a word, but also, work that was like nails on a chalk board to my eyes, and never said a word. What I see as bad work, would probably be seen as awesome by someone else, so I tend to just keep my mouth shut, or try to say something positive, as do most people here. I realise that most beginners make the same mistakes, and that most show improvement with each piece they do. I am also, pretty much a novice, so I don't feel that my opinions are very valid. Maybe after I've trashed a few of 55 gallon drums of leather, I will have more to say. Until then, everyone can expect to hear something positive from me. Encouragement before criticism usually works well. Hilly

I have a friend who chews, and is constantly wearing out the back pocket in all his jeans from keeping his tin in the pocket. I would like to make a case for him to hang on his belt. I am looking to make the snuff box case featured in "The Art of Making Leather Cases" Vol. I by Al Stohlman. It calls for a type of fastener referred to as a "belt snap". I have been perusing the Tandy catalog, but don't see much in the way of suitable fasteners small enough to use on this pattern. Am I missing something? The the base of the post part must be smaller than 3/8" at the widest. I'm guessing that the snuff boxes have become smaller since this pattern was published, and I won't find any belt snaps this small. Any suggestions for a closure? Thanks, Hilly

Happy Birthday!

Get yourself one of those little hairless dogs. I hear most allergic people tolerate them quite well. 'Course, you'd have to make him a leather jacket and boots to keep him warm

Tandy has petite tooling calf in 2oz. Don't know if this is what you're looking for.

No no no! Don't suck. SPIT. Saliva and a nice little nylon edge slicker works good. But only on my own stuff. For others' I use water and my edge slicker. I've used beeswax and a piece of canvas, but didn't like it as much as the water and slicker.

Maybe you could use a bag punch, and have the ends of your "removable" loops go through the slots, and fasten on the back side of the belt? That way they might not look like an add on? Maybe put a little velcro underneath to keep the loop unit close? I like your idea of snap on loops. Please post pics!

I guess I'm gonna have to order one from Tandy. I just can't wrap my mind around the construction of this one.

Do you do the laser work yourself, or did you have it done somewhere? I'd love to do a case for my husband's shotguns with a photo of our bird dogs on it.

I have never seen conchos as large as that. Doesn't mean they don't make them though. Tandy sells some silver dollar conchos that are pretty fair size. Maybe these would work for you?

Another masterpiece, Tom! I always love your style! That would make an awesome watch band. Maybe on the next one you could put in a snap closure, and then line it so the snap back wouldn't contact the skin? I'm nickel allergic, too. Heck I'm so allergic I can't even have staples after surgery Steri-strips either. Good old fashioned silk stitches for me! Maybe next time I'll ask if they can sew me up with leather lace? .....Excuse me Dr. Soandso, can you please close the incision with a 2 strand, 3/32" braided applique? Sorry folks, I only slept about an hour last night. I guess I'm a half a bubble off level today.

Okay, I am definately WOWed now. Fantastic! What is your technique for the bear?

A clutch motor is noisy and runs constantly, and only engages when you step on the pedal. They are hard for some people to control the speed. No advantages over a servo motor to my knowledge. A servo motor is much quieter, and runs only when you step on the pedal. The speed is adjustable to go as fast or slow as you want. Much more precise control over speed. Yes, you can change out a clutch motor for a servo, as long as they're the same size/horse power. If you have a sewing machine with a clutch motor on it, you won't regret changing it out for a servo. I'm not entirely sure, but I think that my servo motor has a little more punching power than the clutch motor. Seems to handle heavy leather or more layers of vinyl easier than the clutch. Now I need to find a use for the old clutch motor I have laying around.

Once I get my project to the degree of "tan-ness" I like, will sealing it with supersheen or tankote keep it from tanning further?

I was thinking about doing that. Have you done this? How did it turn out?

No Tom, I haven't been in your head, YOU have been in MINE! I was thinking about the reindeer hide I have stashed away to use as end gussets in a bag I plan on making. I thought about photographing some stuff I made and putting it on that hide. Gosh, we're gonna have to stop meeting like this. People will talk.

This is after 7 hours of full sun. These are from the same piece of leather. I did not expect to see this much difference. Tomorrow if the sun shines again, I'll put it out for another 7 hours and see what happens.

I'm curious as to just how tanned a piece of sun tanned leather will get? Will it achieve a saddle tan color? How long does it take? I'm sort of experimenting right now with a project. I've had it out in full sun for about the last 6 hours, and I've misted it very lightly with plain water several times during the day. So far, it's gone from a pasty looking VERY pale piece of leather, to almost the color of the brown surrounding the "Leatherworker!Net" logo. At the end of the day, I will post a photo of the color change you can get from one day in the sun. If I can get a decent medium saddle tan color, I think I will just stop trying to achieve that color using dyes and use the sun, followed by a light coat of pure neetsfoot. A more "green" approach, if you will. Does anyone have an example of just how tan a piece of leather can get from pure sunshine? Can you post a photo of it, next to a piece of pale, un-suntanned leather?

I did put glass over mine to keep dust from getting into the matt. It would be a royal pain in the behind to clean something like this. This was done with 8-9oz leather, and it fit just fine behind the glass.

I've had that very same idea! Here's a matt I did.

Hi Ian. I have one question... How do you form the "dish" in the seat leather and have it lay like that?

Do you think that leatherwork looks very nice displayed on natural fur, such as hair on animal hides? Tom's idea of foam "shapes" is a good one, only maybe you'd put them under Hair on hides, and display your larger or more expensive items. The small stuff like key fobs and such could just hang on a rack of some type? Or, with the small stuff, you could just display one or two of a particular item, and keep the rest loose in a box for the customer to pick out his/her own item. When it comes to lighting, natural looks best, but if you need artificial lighting, flourescent gives off a green type of glow; not very flattering IMO. Sodium vapor: too orange and unnatural. Either of these don't show the true colors of your products. Try broad spectrum lighting to eliminate the off colors. A general ambient light source, coupled with low intensity spot lighting could hilite your best work? Sorry, I was just sort of thinking out loud...