awharness

I know this is a topic that is talked about and talked about, but I feel that this is a differnt angle on it. PRICING. I have an offer to do a pick up drop off service at a tack shop. They want to charge me 10%, so I need a set price list. I would like some input. It is a typically high end Hunter jumper dressage market. No tooling or creative work, just basic repair and fabrication. I know I have to charge 100% mark up on materials and hardware, but how much for labor? would 12.50 min on labor + materials... which would equate to like 50 an hour plus materials? any input would be welcomed... THanks -Andrew

the shaft tips are usually wrapped with a thin, often naugahyde(sp?) patant or even chrome tan leather attached with tacks on the bottom of the shaft, with a strap around the shaft that allows the trace to go thru. depending on the length their could be two or three loops for the traces to go thru down the shaft as wel as the cross member where the trae will ride across to go to the wiffletree. go to jerald sulky and click on their pleasure carts, model A roadmaster and you will be able to get a picture of this

On the website they have four sections, I am sure its set up as one parents company with four seperate divisions. Like Disney is the parent company and then owns everthing under it. I own two small business and I try to keep them seperate, but I know sometimes I borrow from peter to pay paul. I would say that if the supply pays for the production that is probably beyond the general consumer's view unless they looked at the actaul books, or the K1's. I am sure if they do have it structured as one parents company with four entitiees some quartes one division will be stronger then anther, overall I would say thats a hard statement to stand on. I know weaver doesnt make products to the degree the craftsmen on this page do, or to such niche markets as our members do!

very nice! how did you get the raised effect on the caveson? hows it constructed? as well as the brow... That bridle will dress up any warmbloods head!

I've found that the aussie works differntly on differnt types of leather. I will make something and then work that in on it, let it sit for a bit then wipe it down. Lexol will take that stickyness off of it I've found. I just leave the top off of it on my die bench. Some of the pulling people and loggers that use horses around here will bring in tack and it will be so nasty I will clean the leather and use that on it. Works pretty good, but I know what you're saying about that sticky nasty feal! give it a squirt of lexol and its gone~! -Andrew

David, the first diagram makes so much sense with the color zones for strength of the back. I come from the Morgan Saddlebred Hackney industry, worlds apart from the stock horses. Growing up in 4-H we were always taught the horse carried 60% of their weight on the forhand, with the saddlehorses the further back you can get the neck, the higher you can get the head and rocked back the higher the horse will trot. 50/50 on the weight some horses are built for this, most are not, it seems as thought a lot of the horses that redistribute their weight in this manor break down behind a lot faster, where all the impulsion comes from, thinking that on a lot of the horses the riders are dropping back into the weaker zones of the back. A lot of it comes down to the conformation, I feel that the horse that has a natural carriage, whether it be high or low is a lot better off. From pushing penuts to puking a full bridle with their heads cranked back unnatural carriage of the head is going to lead to problems. I know that I am opening a whole can of worms mentioning this, but my point is from roping and reining, to dressage and saddle horses the benifit is to be on the strongest point of the back. Dr.Raun, a vet and hackney pony breeder did a demo and he suggested on the show pony that the back pad be more centered in the back, roughly 4" from the withers, pm a 4 wheel viceroy the back pad carries little to no weight however but even that is in the stronger part of the back. But very valid points on the weight forward aspect of rider positioning, trends seem to move riders this way, that way, and every other way. A good friend of mine is a 6th generation morgan breeder and trainer always says he does it the same way he learned from his grandfather who learned from his grandfather, (who was a vet), Basic, simple and no gimics, let the horse choose what they want to do and go with it. -Andrew

Welcome to the board. I Know I may be asking you some questions here in the future! I do harness work, mostly for show horses, but then again anything that comes my way!

Hey I have a 29 and it won't sew 1/2". The presser foot maybe lifts that high. 3/8 felt may be do-able... I've sewn about 11-12oz total weight with the machine, and put a decortive stitch in 11oz before with it... nice clean stitch, easy machine to work on.Hey I have a 29 and it won't sew 1/2". The presser foot maybe lifts that high. 3/8 felt may be do-able... I've sewn about 11-12oz total weight with the machine, and put a decortive stitch in 11oz before with it... nice clean stitch, easy machine to work on.

Barra, I was checking out those Dies when I was looking at those blinders... David LaSalle said I could probably make a set of blinder molds like I mentioned out of hard wood, but I think I am going to try to get some machined. It seems like if anyone needs ANYTHING someone on Leatherworkers.net would have it! I can't get over what a resource this website is! -Andrew

Thanks Barra, its typically 26 gauge galvinized. The molds are in fact a male and a female die, that have the concave shape to them. It seems as though the blinder molds are near imposible to come by as well as the dies to stamp uptugs and box check peices... if anyone had either of them I'd also be intested. I saw some in SHop talks tool sale, and I wish I had bought them now! -Andrew

Hi there! I was wondering if anyone had any blinker molds? I am looking for some deep cupped square and some deep cupped round in pony sized... if anyone knew where to get them or anyone who may have some it would be GREATLY appricated! Thanks, -Andrew

David thanks for the tip, I may give that a try. I have a couple of the tandy groovers, but adjusting them all the time loosened up the handle on one and the little flat screw on the end of the other type they sell is getting stripped out. I just wanted to get something that I can set it and for get about it! I've got an idea in my head for something... I may need to get more info on how you sharpen the groover. -Andrew

has anyone used the Horseshoe brand (Watt) compass style groover? it looks pretty decent, better then the new Osborns... any input? -Andrew

I always have the same problem! I never know what to charge for repairs! Sometimes I tell myself "$12 minimuim" then I do a bunch of work for that $12 mini, and the next time they come in I charge them $12 for half the work! How does everyne charge? It doesn't seem fair to charge hourly in some cases because I start in on something then go back to it after glue tacks up, or the phone rings or I get the urge to come on here... So whats the deal with everyone elses repair work pricing? -Andrew

I used them more today, I like them. They have a good feel. decent "heft". I used the biggest one #4 on some 12 oz harness leather, and it was getting to the belly, so it was a bit spongy and they glided right threw it. I used the#1 and #2 on some 10oz bridle leather, they cut excellent!. At first they took a little getting used to... But I am pretty damn happy with them! -Andrew

I Bought a set of these, I haven't "Used" them yet, but I tried them out and was really happy with them. A lot better quality then what I was expencting! I am happy with them thought! -Andrew

there is alittle bit of everything! I just wanted to get it outta the shop! Their are buckles from 3/8- 3/4 shoe findings, brass, black, brown toggles... EVERYTHING The pictures suck, but oh well someone will get a good deal. I got a good deal when I bought the stuff! A lot of stamped light weight stuff. I know that their are NO #12's #49's or anythink like that... Great for a crafter who does small odd projects! If someone gets it on here for 5 bucks so be it! Some buckles have four of them, most are just one or two buckles.

Check these out on ebay! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...E:IT&ih=018 I listed these and no one is bidding on them. Its a 9"x12"x5" box of buckle samples. Its a good amount of qualtiy buckles. Mostly from waterbury buckles. Mostly smaller sized up to 3/4" Someone bid on them before I end up giving them away on ebay! -Andrew

I saw a post on here a while back with a custom stitch grover... Who makes good groovers? Whats everyone use?

Hey There, I am From Swanzey NH, Just 10 mins from Mass and 10 Mins from VT. I am only 25 and grew up with horses. I Got my first set of leather tools when I was 10-12 and Putted around with them. Later on I did repairs and modified some harnesses and stuff. All of this segwayed in to doing harness making! Right now I finally broke down and got my first REAL job! I've had a seasonally concession business since high school that had done very well. Since persuing the Harness making(Hoping to be full time sooner or later) I took a job at a local college in the Bursar office! I am going back to school in the fall to get my MBA, and then I will use my education FOR NOTHING when I can sit at home all day and make Harness! I love the crazy horse industry and I love making things!

Hey Reading this Topic makes me want a new head knife! I suppose there is nothing wrong with the Osbourne that I have, but has anyone tried that Weaver Head knife? I think I might Email Deuy and try one of his knifes too... -Andrew

I just got two stamps from Jeff in the mail today! Great stamps! I will probably order from him again! FAST, reasonable. -Andrew

Hey, I do a lot of tack repair. The Best way to fix the throat snap when it breaks is to cut the stitching replace the buckle, and then thread up those 0 harness needled with some waxed linen and get to hand stitching! the job come out 1000 times better! Looks brand new and if your hardware and thread match no one would know you even fix it! -Andrew

Art, What seems to be the differnce from the fredco 2020 and the Toro 3000 or the super bull v. 4000? They are both 441 clones... Whats the differnce from there? I've been using a Boss and a 29-4 and am ready to make the next step up... I need something thats got good control for doing bridle work normally 1/2" wide up... to thick, but limited thick... I do do 12oz doubled up regularly, but when I say thick thick I mean like damn close to 7/8" on a D ring pulling harness. I do have the Boss and the 29-4 that I can use for light stuff. I just dont know which direction to go in... I figure I have three catigories for heavy stitchers 1) 441/205's Clones, remakes knock offs and orginals be it weaver, sewpro, sewmo Cowboy artisan Ferdco ect. 2) THe harness stitchers ASE #9, Lubertos, Ferdco 6/6 ect 3) the needle and awl, the Champions, the Unions, Campbell-Bosworths. I just dont know which way to go... I dont want to deal with the pain in the butt timing of the needle and awl on a daily basis... but maybe work my way up to one if I get a lesser of a machine right now... -Andrew Art, whats your Big artisan?

Thanks Art, I was falling in love with the lubertos, But I am having a hard time with the price. I saw the 6/6, and thinking that the ferdco was a good machine in general that the 6/6 would be a fair substitute for the Classic. If thats not the case! I've seen recomendations for the Toro 3000 and other 441 clones and 205 clones, is that basically the only way to go as far as heavy stitchers? Where would you put your money Art? I love the adjustible foot on the lubertos... they sound like a great machine but 7k... -Andrew