retiredff

Thanks Tom, that is sort of the idea I had but I wasn't sure if it would work. Should I do this before or after dying?

Hello, I bought this pattern from Tandy, have it cut out, but, I assume the front piece needs to be wet formed. Stapling the piece down including the stitch lines doesn't seem right. What is the best way to do this. Link to a picture of the pouch; Thanks Tony

Thanks bikermutt, I have seen his knives and will most likely buy 1 or 2. I'm looking for a cheaper way. I found a guy that makes clicker blades that fit Tandys, SLC, CS Osborne and probably other bodies. I haven't decided if putting a $25 blade in a $2 body is worth it in the long run. I may just bite the bullet and buy 2 quality knives and call it a day.

Hello, Does anyone know of a custom blade/knife maker that makes a quality replacement blade for a clicker knife? Thanks Tony

pre '63 craftool made them also. The numbers are 103 and 103 1/2 (I think the # are correct) They can be found on ebay but many was too much for them.

AB'ing and dyes works great! I have tried applying neatsfoot, let dry 24hrs. then spray saddle brown, it comes out great. Nice even color, nothing like using a swab and it saves dye. Set your spray pattern on a piece of paper before spraying the leather. Try laying the leather flat and propped up against something until u find what suits you best. Look on utube, there are some videos that spray dyes on leather. Good luck Tony

OK, but I tried the cheaps airbrushes (AB) and didn't like what I got. I have 2 now, a Iwata side feed and Badger side feed both between $90-100 ea. The results were much better especially with the iwata. It handles anything from dyes to finishes with ease. I also found if I want a light brown color using a dauber was difficult, with the AB it's easy and so is doing a sunburst. Just practice on scrap first. If the results with the HF are so,so then I would upgrade either bying new or used on ebay. If the HF AB spits globs, thin it, if that doesn't help change pressure settings. DON'T buy an AB compressor w/o a tank, you won't like it, instead start off with a 20gal tank if you have a compressor in your garage. I have a California Air tools quiet compressor that I'm happy with and I use it in the house.

I don't see why not. Try thinning by 25%, if it spits then try 50%. If it's thin enough anything should spray thru an airbrush. You may have to experiment with pressure also.

I found it, thanks Chief.

Don't u have a video on doing that type of braid? It looks perfect to me, I have not yet tried to braid but it's in my plans. Tony

I have one, thanks.

well, using an airbrush (AB) requires cleaning after using. Since my first post I have upgraded my AB. I dumped the VEDA, it wouldn't spray anything without spitting, and I tore it apart and thoroughly cleaned it, still no luck. So after watching ebay and reading alot of posts on AB forums I bought an Iwata eclipse side feed and a badger Spirit, also a side feed. What a huge difference especially when doing fine detail! I still use the Master AB but mainly for finishes, it does fine for that with a .5 needle. The Badger is a .3 and the Iwata is .3 also. Both spray dyes and thinned acrylics great. I did have an issue with Angelus silver metallic and switched to a createx pearl acrylic, when I have time to test it I'll post info here.The pearl's are suppose to be ground finer, hopefully they will work. The main thing I have learned from using an AB is it takes practice, practice and more practice. When spraying dyes vs a dauber, I can control the lighter color darkness much better than with a dauber, and painting flower leaves etc takes practice but can be done. I have found that when spraying dyes, to clean the leather with alcohol before spraying also helps the dye (fiebings alcohol based) absorb more evenly.

I have several of their templates and they work fine. What problems did you encounter?

If that is what you usually use it should work fine. The drill press keeps the holes perfectly straight.

I have the same issue with thick leather, so I use a stitching wheel to mark the holes then put the awl blade in my drill press with a fence. The blade is set at about a 45 deg. angle, this works great for me.

Thanks Tom.

how much weight? And if it's as large as the leather will that slow the drying? Thanks for another option - Tony

As I was reading I thought of making the leather larger than needed then use staples to hold it flat until it dries. I'm drawing up some clock faces and other info I may put on it (the entire piece won't be carved/stamped), I then have to buy a piece of cheap leather to practice a few of these before using some good leather. After I do a few of these I should have an idea how the leather will act after tooling and I can adjust as needed. Thanks Bob - Tony

Thanks Bob. I thought that is how I did it last time but it was on a small wallet sized piece. This will be 12"x14" or larger. Tony

Bob - after applying the tape on a large piece (it could be 12"x14" or so) do you case with a sponge or spray? I wouldn't think dipping it the tape or shelf liner will hold. Tony

It makes perfect sense Bob.I remembered doing this as a test awhile ago on a small piece of leather and found the roll of shelf paper I used. Thanks for the help. Tony