retiredff

I had the same issue when dying saddle tan or any light color when using a swab. I started using an airbrush and it's much easier to control the color depth and I think I use much less dye.

Thanks for the link, I bought 2 5oz.

Thanks Tom will do. The pens I bought are the 127 HS-CO, I couldn't find the 127 EF. If these work out the next thing I buy will be empty cartridges. I don't know where u bought yours but the best price I found was here: http://artprimo.com/catalog/markers-molotow-markers-c-28_37.html They are in Washington State

I found someone who handles them. They carry the tip and refills. I wonder if I can use any acrylic paint instead of theirs? I ordered them with 2mm tips and ordered 1mm and 1.5mm tips to experiment with the sizes. They were only $2.99 for 2 in a pack. Thanks again Tom EDIT: I emailed the company in Germany. We can use any acrylic paint we want to refill the pens. I didn't ask about other paint types.

TomG - I found the company Molotow paint markers. What size tip did u use on the letters?

TomG, You solved the problem with the firefighter emblem, the depressions are large, that's why the antique won't work. As for the sharpie pens, I found out the hard way. Do u have a link for the Molotow paint markers? I found some on Amazon but it doesn't say they are refillable. Those should work for me. The sharpies work when they worked, the tips stopped flowing quickly. Thanks for the info The pics you posted look good to me, just what I'm looking for. Tony

howie - The letters are painted, then resisted. I want the antique to stay in the letter recesses along the edges around the letters. It does work, sort of. On the letters I use sheep skin to wipe off the antique, on the firefighter emblem, I have tried the sheep skin, paper towels, paper towel wrapped around a 2x2 block, I tried a popcicle stick to try and scrape it off. That works sort of but when I use anything to clean it up, the antique is pulled from the recesses. Should I let it dry longer? I may have a custom stencil made and just airbrush it. That way I can be more flexible and add flames, maybe a skull in the center. And I don't have to use tooling leather, I should be able to paint on any type of leather. My issue with that is I have never airbrushed like that...

I wondered that also but Angelus paints were designed to paint tennis shoes. From the reviews I have read it holds up well.

Club - I use a Master G22 and I have a Veda WD-180 airbrush (AB), both were <$40 and both spray dye, acrylic finishers/resists just fine. When I spray dye or the resist (pro-clear) I cut them 50/50 or 1:1. The master brush came with 3 needles, a .2, .3 and a .5. I use the .5 to spray the dyes and resist/finish and the veda for detailed stuff with acrylic paints (Angelus and createx). I'm just beginning to learn spraying with acrylics so I'm not alot of help there. I would save my $$$ until u are sure a high dollar brush is what you need. I also invested in a California Air tools quiet compressor. I had a 5 gal tank that I AB with but that grew into a PITA going to the garage to refill it especially in the winter and It's quiet enough to use in the house. I bought the 4610A. http://www.californiaairtools.com/ultra-quiet-oil-free-air-compressors/1-0-hp-air-compressors/ Tony

I'm having a problem with antiquing on letter stamps and FireFighter maltese cross stamp. The cross is a standard 1 1/4" stamp, the letters are 3/4" and 1/2". The leather is 3oz, I stained it saddle tan then airbrushed (AB) 2 coats of pro-clear. Then I applied with a wool piece fiebings antique black very heavy on the letters and the cross, I let it sit for 2 minutes or so. When I remove the excess with wool, paper towel or a flat scraper it pulls the paste out of the letter and cross depressions. WHY? I have watched numerous youtube video's and I do it exactly the same way. Is the letter not heavy enough? Should I let it sit longer? Or will this not work on stamps just tooling? Thanks Tony

They look really good, the stitching especially. Keep us posted on how you like them.

OK, when will the other sizes/colors be available? The other sizes I might use are .6 and 1mm. Tony

Matt, I received your sample card, I like the thread but what sizes are/will be available? I think you sent .8mm... Tony

I use a drill press, works great. I bought an auxiliary drill press table with a fence, helps alot.

Just starting to learn lacing. SLC has many colors of DEER lacing and not so many of CALF. I also read about KANG but it's too pricy while I'm learning. How well does the DEER compare vs the CALF? Any recommendations on a suppliers for more colors of CALF? I want to learn double loop and 2 color double loop. I read here someone uses the 2 color double loop for his projects but uses 1 color, he claimed it filled in better. I'll understand that as I progress. I have angled 3/32" chisel to use with 1/8" lacing, is this OK or should the slots and lacing match? When should I use 3/32" vs 1/8"? Should the lacing be lubricated with bees wax or ? Thanks Tony

Will this work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/271702744504?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT You will need to drill a hole for a rivet.

This rubber flooring made from recycled tires looks promising: http://www.rubbercal.com/rubber-flooring/gym-rubber-flooring/elephant-bark-rubberized-flooring.html

I found by searching on ebay finds some rubber sheets, search: shoe repair sheets

hackaday - thanks for the quick reply. My thoughts along with looking at sandals/flip flops on etsy would be using the crepe you linked to with some B grade horween for the top of the sandal ( not up with terminology yet), the straps could be just about anything that will hold up. Is there a chance we are over thinking this? BTW - your FF's turned out great imo. why stitch thru the crepe? would the stitching add strength or decoration? I would stitch thru the leather with a contrasting color or design, then cover it with the crepe. The reason I researched making these is bc my wife/daughter saw some on etsy and wanted me to make them, they also had their own designs... The 30/35 durometer is handled by the same seller on ebay. I started following him and went to his store. He has many items that may be useful. Tony